Daily driver gear ratio 8 3/4 rearend

[marty koirtyohann]

I remember gas @ $.25 a gallon when I first started paying attention, cigs were about the same price in VA.

$.25 in 1973 = $1.66 now, so even adjusted for inflation gas was way cheap.

its not $1.66 here in the Midwest its $3.29

 

[Loadrunner]

Holy!

$4.73 at my favorite station here yesterday, pretty peeved, last trip in before that was $4.19 so wtf happened?

Straight up $5 in town, in the big city.

$5.40 for diesel and Non Ethanol Premium right close to it.

 

[marty koirtyohann]

Holy!

$4.73 at my favorite station here yesterday, pretty peeved, last trip in before that was $4.19 so wtf happened?

Straight up $5 in town, in the big city.

$5.40 for diesel and Non Ethaoln Premium right close to it.

well i cant aford those + my new yorker carburetor dose not like high enthanol gas it liks the 91 ethanol free fuel but its close to 5.50 a gal too

 

[Loadrunner]

My trucks usually get along ok on regular gas, but it's the sitting thing that gets you, and the small engine guys swear the regular gas is good for about a month in a can.

I need to rig up a pump, I have everything, to suck the contents of a gas tank dry, so you can use the gas in your daily driver, rather than eventually going bad in the tank.

I've had to take umpteen gallons of bad gas to the dump/toxic waste disposal.

You do not EVER want to run old shitty smelling gas through an engine. I've seen it destroy gas tanks, fuel pumps, carburators, exhaust even, but mostly engines.

Sucking that gas in through your guides, good likelyhood they will seize up, and when you go to crank engine, lots of bent pushrods, sometimes broken cams, bent valves, if you're lucky just bent pushrods.

I was resurrecting a 1970 383 that hadn't run in ages, it started but then all the sudden started running really rough and lost all oil pressure at the same time.

I was mortified, original motor, 58,000 miles on it, when to me 100,000 is just broken in for a 383.

Pulled the valve covers on a hunch, bent pushrod laying to the side and lifter spit out of its bore, hence the massive oil pressure leak.

Scored a set of pushrods on eBay, still have the other 15 just in case.

Turns out the valve covers were condensating in certain spots, rockers and valves rusting here and there because of it.

I cleaned it up and all good, still a turnkey engine to this day.

 

[marty koirtyohann]

My trucks usually get along ok on regular gas, but it's the sitting thing that gets you, and the small engine guys swear the regular gas is good for about a month in a can.

true

 

['66 Fury I]

I'm forced to use corn fed premium here at $1.72 per liter or $6.91 per US gallon.Tthose prices are in Canadian $, so cheaper in USD, but still I count "smiles per Gallon" and keep on going! Lindsay

 

[marty koirtyohann]

I'm forced to use corn fed premium here at $1.72 per liter or $6.91 per US gallon.Tthose prices are in Canadian $, so cheaper in USD, but still I count "smiles per Gallon" and keep on going! Lindsay

well im in missouri w r still useing gallons , feet & mph i know the socialist want every thing under the metric system the last time i was in Canada it was still like us (I think it was i was a 14 y/o kid i wasnt watching that stuff much

 

[Loadrunner]

I meant good for about a month in small engine, if you put it in, use it, and keep it drained when not.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Many a story back in the old day of someone going from 3.23:1 to 2.76:1 "for better gas mileage" because lower RPM's = better gas mileage.

But their highway gas mileage actually got worse.

Why?

Because lower gears = higher RPM for a given road speed = higher engine vacuum = better gas mileage. With the taller gears you're lugging on the highway and it takes greater throttle input to make something happen, liken when pulling hills = lower engine vacuum = worse gas mileage.

Lower gears = better torque @ smaller throttle openings = better gas mileage.

Your mileage may vary.

Wrong.
Small throttle opening and higher rpm results in lower efficiency than more throttle and low rpm, this is physics and chemistry 101. The reason for the worse mpg was the converter is slipping so much. Mismatched parts, changed the gear and the converter is still set for the old gear operating range. This is the reason for lock up torque converters so engine can operate in low rpm highway, but stall can be higher for driveability.
My '76 Cordoba suffered from this problem. Had a 8.25 rear end with a 2.41:1 ratio in it. It got better mpg at 65-70 than the then 55 national speed limit. The reason was all converter slip, or too far below the stall speed.

 

[marty koirtyohann]

Wrong.
Small throttle opening and higher rpm results in lower efficiency than more throttle and low rpm, this is physics and chemistry 101. The reason for the worse mpg was the converter is slipping so much. Mismatched parts, changed the gear and the converter is still set for the old gear operating range. This is the reason for lock up torque converters so engine can operate in low rpm highway, but stall can be higher for driveability.
My '76 Cordoba suffered from this problem. Had a 8.25 rear end with a 2.41:1 ratio in it. It got better mpg at 65-70 than the then 55 national speed limit. The reason was all converter slip, or too far below the stall speed.

was it a 2 barrel or 4 barrel ? most 4 barrels unless its a vacuum secondary the rear butterflys will stat to crack open about 60 mph k . i had a junk holley till the ct a 4rb died my 440 was getting 15 mpgs with s carter avs it gets 12-13 but its a 750 cfm . the holley blew the power valve about once a month i had it rdone but the guy set it up as a race carb then the bowls started leaking out the "plugs" . i had soo much in it it wasnt funny

 

[live4theking]

Both my 68 NYers had 2.76 gears. I have no complaints. I even towed a 70 challenger from TX to PA with the first one.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I always liked the 2.XY (not sure if 2.76 or 2.94, tag not fully legible. Will count turns again soon) on our old '66 Newport. On the highway it got OK petrol economy, though I ran a lot of 2nd gear in town. I admit the 3.23 on our '68 seduces one with quicker off the line performance; desirable in evil town traffic. I MAY swap in the 2.XY rear end for awhile, as it has good bearings, which I need to redo on the 3.23. Tempted to go for a latter day "Sure Grip" or Powr-lok from Dr. Diff w the 3.23.

Traffic here is BAD, with too many IDIOTS on the street. I need to install better brake hardware up front, and will likely go back to 3.23 in the long run. Being able to pull away from a lane which has 2 or 3 other drivers all vying to occupy the same space is handy.

 

[Loadrunner]

Like my old 80 yr boss out in the woods used to say about my Power Wagon in his shaky voice "More Power by the Hour" ;] but in this case, you need it by the second.

The ability to take off - evade pursuit - and also to stop cannot be overrated.

0-60 times of 6 seconds are acceptable.

I remember the road tests on the original Rabbit, and seeing them in action on the street, rubber in every gear.

Oddly enough, jackrabbit starts on the Rabbit road tests got better gas mileage around town than granny driving.

To me, a street race is won when I blow your doors off at the light, across the intersection, and that the challenger finally catches up and blows by you at twice the legal town speed limit does nothing for me, you already lost and know it, but please do clear out the gendarmes hiding ahead ;]

What gets to you driving big boats, or in Chrysler terms something even bigger than a C body around town, a D body, are painfully slow starts, stopping is always a bear and it really wears you out by the end of the day.


Gimme a 383 powerhouse, a Transgo Stage 2 shift kitted 727 w 3.23:1 Sure Grip, some power front disc brakes and a day in town would be refreshing and fun ;]

 

[Mr C]

For what it's worth, my "daily driver" 8.75 ratios of choice are 2.94s or 3.23s.