Delmae’s New Parts

[Walter Joy]

You know that adage “too nice of things on too junk of cars”? Well this is that instance, and I apologize to all my friends who have seen my posts elsewhere on what I’m about to show.

Back in February, I picked up a set of 15x8 Cop Rally wheels for Delmae using some of my 21st birthday money I hadn’t spent on alcohol and gambling. While there, the seller mentioned he had a big block laying in his garage that he had blown up a while back and since he was recently retired and moving to his new house in Tennessee, he didn’t need it and would offer it to me for a good deal. I unfortunately at the time did not have an engine stand to put the engine on, and he unfortunately was leaving to spend a few weeks at his house in Tennessee, so we struck a deal and agreed that I would get the engine at the end of March.

Then COVID-19 happened, everything shut down, and he decided that he was going to stay down there until further notice. Fine by me, I had all the time in the world. Spring semester of college ended, I bought a set of M/T valve covers from an awesome Mopar owner, and I started back at my internship and teleworking from home. That’s when he sends me a text saying he was coming home the weekend of June 13th, and we agreed that I would pick it up the evening of June 15th.

Monday night I finally got my hands on my first engine- a 451 cubic inch Stroker based on a Dodge 400 that he had in his 1966 Charger. Full Crane Cams Gold roller rocker valvetrain, ported and decked 906 heads with new valves and seats and port matched to his Air Gap intake (which he has on his 572 in the Charger), Lunati Voodoo cam and lifters, and 9.5 to 1 compression. And not only did he sell me the engine, he sold me a Torker 383 intake, another Lunati Voodoo cam, lifter, springs, and pushrods, a set of chrome valve covers, and a parts washer! Not bad for $120 for everything.

It does suck that he did the oiling mod for the rocker arms. Hoping I can revert back to factory oiling and still retain those 1.6 ratio rocker arms without having to ruin my vintage valve covers.

Here's the updated stock pile of goodies that will be complementing those 906 heads on Delmae's 383. The Carter AVS 6125S was rebuild during the quarantine by myself on that exact table there. The valve cover's are off a gentleman's 1969 Charger R/T 440 4bbl and had been sitting on a shelf since the 1990s. He even found the oil breather that was on it while on the Charger. The driver side 2951216 manifold was actually bought off of Joe Bonnette, and the 2806900 from a gentleman in Idaho (still trying to sell the 2843247 manifold that came with it). Only thing missing is the Comp Cam XE268H I have, and may possibly find a air grabber air cleaner to match.

And here is the current stockpile of extra parts that will be for sale shortly. Most of the parts will be for sale, so that I can buy the new parts for Delmae.

 

[Walter Joy]

And here is why I stole the engine for the price I did....that’ll buff out, right? I’m eager yet afraid to see what the carnage is. Notice how the oil pan is blown out in the first photo.

 

[furious70]

Well $120 is ok for a used set of golds if they didn't get ruined. Cast crank, probably junk run through the whole thing.

 

[Walter Joy]

Well $120 is ok for a used set of golds if they didn't get ruined. Cast crank, probably junk run through the whole thing.

That's my plan. I only bought it for the heads, as they are probably worth 10 times that. I may revert to the heavy duty stamped rockers (or find some stamped 1.6 rockers)

 

[Davea Lux]

Rod either parted company with the crank and hit the camshaft or the crank broke and took out the lower end of the block. 400 block and Stroker kit are most likely toast. But that was still a good buy for the heads, rockers, and extra parts. Heads have the good valve springs and probably had some port work done.

Dave

 

[Walter Joy]

Rod either parted company with the crank and hit the camshaft or the crank broke and took out the lower end of the block. 400 block and Stroker kit are most likely toast. But that was still a good buy for the heads, rockers, and extra parts. Heads have the good valve springs and probably had some port work done.

Dave

He said they have a fair amount of porting and head work done to them, however are not overdone. I am hoping they were decked as well in an effort to raise the compression a little bit on Delmae's 2bbl 383. For 1971, what were the pistons in them? Were they flat top or were they dished, and if so, how deep of a dish (how many cc's)? Hopefully with enough funds, I can maybe have the 383 decked and honed.

 

[Davea Lux]

He said they have a fair amount of porting and head work done to them, however are not overdone. I am hoping they were decked as well in an effort to raise the compression a little bit on Delmae's 2bbl 383. For 1971, what were the pistons in them? Were they flat top or were they dished, and if so, how deep of a dish (how many cc's)? Hopefully with enough funds, I can maybe have the 383 decked and honed.

'71 383 ran an 8.5 comp ratio by using dished pistons. You should bolt a dial indicator to the top of the block and measure from the edge of the piston at TDC to see how far down in the hole it sits before doing and deck work. If you plan to rebuild the engine, you can install the older flat top pistons to boost the comp ratio back up without having to deck the block. You would also want to check which crank you have as the 2BBL 383 in '71 had mostly cast iron cranks. For any serious performance build, you will want to find a steel crank. With a a steel crank, you will also need to go to a balancer and a torque convertor for a steel crank as well. The '71 383 cast crank is externally balanced, the '70 383 and older steel cranks are internally balanced.

Dave

 

[Walter Joy]

'71 383 ran an 8.5 comp ratio by using dished pistons. You should bolt a dial indicator to the top of the block and measure from the edge of the piston at TDC to see how far down in the hole it sits before doing and deck work. If you plan to rebuild the engine, you can install the older flat top pistons to boost the comp ratio back up without having to deck the block. You would also want to check which crank you have as the 2BBL 383 in '71 had mostly cast iron cranks. For any serious performance build, you will want to find a steel crank. With a a steel crank, you will also need to go to a balancer and a torque convertor for a steel crank as well. The '71 383 cast crank is externally balanced, the '70 383 and older steel cranks are internally balanced.

Dave

Awesome thank you! I’m not looking to make stupid power with it. 350-400 hp at the crank. I’ve yet to crack the seal on the 383, as I want to get the front end done at the same time along with rust repair

 

[Walter Joy]

Realized I never made a follow up post on the engine. If a picture is worth a thousand words...just see for yourself!

 

[Walter Joy]

When we first brought it home, the bottom end was completely locked up. Seems like the rod and bearing got lodged inbetween the block and crank and wouldn’t allow us to turn it over. Heads checked out fine and will even be reusing the ARP head bolts. Unfortunately not much else could be salvaged (see cylinder wall) and the 451 block will live the remainder of its life as a flower pot

 

[polara71]

Ouch!

 

[saylor]

hell ya !