Disc brake conversion problem

Those clips are there to apply spring tension to the bolt and mitigate it's ability to loosen from vibrations while driving. So yes I would install them. ;)
 
Those clips are there to apply spring tension to the bolt and mitigate it's ability to loosen from vibrations while driving. So yes I would install them. ;)

I agree mine didn't come with those and my caliper came loose. Not a pleasant experience when braking, I personally would recommend some medium thread lock too.
 
I have a 68 Newport "Wood sided" convertible that I will be making this same '73 conversion in the very near future. I do have a question, with the change out from drums to disc's. Did you change or adjust the front to rear balance block? This block balances the fluid pressure to the brakes. With the added requirements for the disc's, I would expect this adjustment may be required, correct? If so how? and what do you do to test it's functionality? Just curious. I have also attached pictures of my car, presently with drum brakes.

IMG_20190208_161218_011.jpg


IMG_20190208_161218_021.jpg
 
I have a 68 Newport "Wood sided" convertible that I will be making this same '73 conversion in the very near future. I do have a question, with the change out from drums to disc's. Did you change or adjust the front to rear balance block? This block balances the fluid pressure to the brakes. With the added requirements for the disc's, I would expect this adjustment may be required, correct? If so how? and what do you do to test it's functionality? Just curious. I have also attached pictures of my car, presently with drum brakes.

View attachment 269022

View attachment 269023

Nice convertible! Regarding the hydraulic balance: You should use a proportioning valve from a disc / drum car.
 
I originally used one, but had issues so dumped it in the trash and now run the front circuit straight off the master cylinder, rear circuit I run a manually adjustable pressure valve. Works great!
 
I pulled one off of a disk-brake New Yorker that was in a junkyard. Works well and have had no problems.

IMG_2755.JPG
 
You need a new distribution block if you don't already have a dual master. I added an adjustable proportion valve and could set it perfect for the rear drums. Very happy with the set up.

Proportioning valve.jpg
Dual diaphram.jpg
 
I have a 68 Newport "Wood sided" convertible that I will be making this same '73 conversion in the very near future. I do have a question, with the change out from drums to disc's. Did you change or adjust the front to rear balance block? This block balances the fluid pressure to the brakes. With the added requirements for the disc's, I would expect this adjustment may be required, correct? If so how? and what do you do to test it's functionality? Just curious. I have also attached pictures of my car, presently with drum brakes.

View attachment 269022

View attachment 269023

It's called "Sportsgrain"...very nice.
 
I am converting my 1967 Sport Furys front drum brakes to disc. I have installed 73 disc spindles, bearings, dust seal, new rotors pads and calipers. new parts were ordered for a 1973 Fury everything went together fine until I went to put the pads in the outer pad will not fit and I can not figure out why. Has anyone else run into this problem? can anyone see something I am missing? am I using the wrong calipers? I have to wait until Monday to go get my cores back to see if they measure different than the ones I replaced them with.

View attachment 265476

View attachment 265477

View attachment 265478
I did the same swap 10 yrs ago, didn't have an issue so the suggestion from one reader that the parts are wrong out of the box (b body vs c body) sounds very plausible. I did swap left to right the spindles, which put my calipers at the front instead of back and it's worked fine with no issues. I just shortened the soft brake lines, which I had made in braided stainless, not very expensive surprisingly.
 
Back
Top