stu’s68furyiiirat
Active Member
Will this work on my 1968 Plymouth fury III someone told me that this will bolt up to my car
Disc brake one more time
- Thread starter stu’s68furyiiirat
- Start date
No, the C body spindles are taller.
No, too small.
stu’s68furyiiirat
Active Member
A b body guy say it would work I’ll show him this post to to prove my point
Just show him these pictures.
It might actually bolt together, but the geometry won't be right.
fury fan
Senior Member
No, as others have said, it won't fit.
B/E-body LBJs have a smaller bolt spacing than C-bodies, so the spindles won't bolt to your LBJ/steering arms.
The BJ pin-taper sizing is also smaller on those cars.
There were guys perhaps 10 years ago discussing the use of C-body discs on the smaller cars, but it required some machining work to get the parts to assemble.
Then there's the whole discussion of spindle height, alignment specs, and steering geometry.
But you wouldn't get far enough to worry about that with that kit.
I really wonder how well that fits all the years/carlines shown, as some 62-65 A-bodies can have 9" drum brakes, and I've read that those parts are really small, smaller than what is used on the small 10" drums. And we use 11" drums.
IMO your best bet right now, due to our C-body calipers being NLA, is the kit from ECI Hotrod Brakes. (but it's $925)
It has only an 11" rotor, but uses larger-piston GM D-52 calipers, and claims 15-25% more braking than later B-body brakes (which is in the kit you showed).
And it uses no bearing spacers or other claptrap.
Chrysler Disc Brake Kits
B/E-body LBJs have a smaller bolt spacing than C-bodies, so the spindles won't bolt to your LBJ/steering arms.
The BJ pin-taper sizing is also smaller on those cars.
There were guys perhaps 10 years ago discussing the use of C-body discs on the smaller cars, but it required some machining work to get the parts to assemble.
Then there's the whole discussion of spindle height, alignment specs, and steering geometry.
But you wouldn't get far enough to worry about that with that kit.
I really wonder how well that fits all the years/carlines shown, as some 62-65 A-bodies can have 9" drum brakes, and I've read that those parts are really small, smaller than what is used on the small 10" drums. And we use 11" drums.
IMO your best bet right now, due to our C-body calipers being NLA, is the kit from ECI Hotrod Brakes. (but it's $925)
It has only an 11" rotor, but uses larger-piston GM D-52 calipers, and claims 15-25% more braking than later B-body brakes (which is in the kit you showed).
And it uses no bearing spacers or other claptrap.
Chrysler Disc Brake Kits
I've got that ECI brake kit sitting in my room right now, the biggest reasons for me picking this kit were the fact that you can retain the original spindle, and that there are EBC bluestuffs available in the D-52 pattern; I fully intend to take my barge out to the occasional "arrive and drive" style of track day. D-52 pads are everywhere though, so lots of options to choose from. It uses rotors from a 1980 firebird, rockauto sells them. They seem to sell centric/fvp 12162025 rotors which by the pics, appear to have two bolt patterns so these have a chance of fitting over our wheel studs. If these are confirmed to fit, then it will save having to machine rotors to fit our PCD.
Worth noting however that the instructions say to have the calipers towards the rear of the vehicle, but this may result in having to fab up new brake lines as the factory lines go to the front, and there is no rubber line I know of that can reach from the front all the way across to the caliper without consulting a local hydraulic shop. The mounting brackets are symmetrical however, so you can mount them on backwards so the left caliper sits on the right corner, and vice versa which lets you mount the calipers towards the front. Might raise eyebrows, but it saves having to refab the steel brake lines.
Worth noting however that the instructions say to have the calipers towards the rear of the vehicle, but this may result in having to fab up new brake lines as the factory lines go to the front, and there is no rubber line I know of that can reach from the front all the way across to the caliper without consulting a local hydraulic shop. The mounting brackets are symmetrical however, so you can mount them on backwards so the left caliper sits on the right corner, and vice versa which lets you mount the calipers towards the front. Might raise eyebrows, but it saves having to refab the steel brake lines.
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