69furyIII
Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2011
- Messages
- 53
- Reaction score
- 12
Hello, what's the disk brake conversion for a 1969 Plymouth fury III with power 4 wheel drums. And do I need to change my power booster and master cylinder.
Disk brake conversion
- Thread starter 69furyIII
- Start date
Any 69 - 73 C body with discs will simply bolt in. Yes, you MUST use the disc booster master and prop valve.
You can use spindles from a '68-71 C body along with the calipers and rotors. You will also need to change the front brake hoses and on some models, the front brake lines.
The booster and master from a 68-71 C body should also be used so you have the higher operating pressures available in case you ever need them. You will also want to update the portioning valve (distribution block) to one designed for front disc brakes.
You can also use spindles from a '72 and later C body but you may have to change the ball joints as some of the later ones won't fit the 68-71 style ball joint. If you go this route you will also need to use the 72 and later rotors and calipers because the '72 and later spindle has a larger diameter. You will need the 68-71 booster for either style conversion. (72 and later booster is to big around to fit in the 68-71 cars).
The other option is to buy the disc brake conversion from one of the several vendors that offer them. The after market conversions are fairly expensive and some work a lot better than others, so do your homework if you plan to that way. My preferred method is to find a donor car to rob the parts off of. Largely how you do the conversion is a matter of what you are willing to spend and how comfortable you are with tearing two cars apart to upgrade one.
Another issue you could run into is that most disc brake equipped C bodies also had the 8.75 rear end. If your vehicle has the lighter duty rear axle, you may have to use an adjustable distribution block to balance out the braking action.
Dave
We offer a disc brake kit for your car that will work with your stock drum brake spindles and provide you with 4 piston calipers and a new master cylinder and booster. Please see the link below:
Front Power Disc Brake Conversion Kit
The cost of the kit is $1009 but with the members discount it is $908 and shipping is free with in the US 48 States. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
Front Power Disc Brake Conversion Kit
The cost of the kit is $1009 but with the members discount it is $908 and shipping is free with in the US 48 States. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
You will need a disk-specific master cylinder and prop valve, but you can use your original booster. Many will tell you no, but I've used mine for 9 years with absolutely no problems.
Respectfully I disagree heartily. There was a reason the factory had two different boosters. The drum booster does not have enough power to fully energize the disc system. In a panic stop it will let you down. The difference may be only 10 feet, but those 10 feet may make the difference between not hitting that dumbass kid who rides his bike out in front of you and killing him.
I knew someone would say that. In 9 years I have not found that to be true. That's over 30,000 miles.
Well, maybe you've got an extra strong drum booster, or you've been very lucky and are an extra careful driver. However, all of that doesn't take into account the dumbass other guy, be it the clueless kid or simply chance... I'm careful too, but I want the extra insurance of having the most braking advantage I can get with the correct disc booster.
That's all I'm sayin' - to each his own.
That's all I'm sayin' - to each his own.
Chrysler, like all OEMs, has their performance standards for brake system components. The dual-diaphragm boosters have more diaphragm area than the typical drum brake booster, from back in the middle '60s. It IS possible to have the same surface area in a single diaphragm booster, but the OD of the unit can become too large for some applications . . . especially when it wasn't planned for initially. Hence, the smaller-diameter dual diaphragm boosters were what came on power disc/drum cars. They were basically the same OD as the drum brake booster, but "thicker" and would stick out farther from the firewall mount.
The booster really doesn't care what master cylinder it's hooked to, but it's the master cylinder that's specific to disc or drum systems. The "disc brake specific" term came to also be applied to the dual diaphragm boosters as that was their primary application.
Disc brake systems CAN need more boost to get that last bit of performance from a disc brake system. But the ultimate stopping power can also relate to brake system friction materials, too. When a drum brake system "fades" from repeated use, no amount of boost can make the car stop well. Add some semi-metallic frictions, and it stops better and for more braking applications. Might more boost be needed in such situations? Probably YES.
We all live in different areas of the country, with differing geography and such. For one owner, the disc brake upgrade (using the existing drum brake booster) might work well AND stop well enough for that particular environment (even in an emergency situation) and brake frictions on the car. A more "race-type" driver in mountainous/hilly terrain, things might be different. That extra boost and the semi-metallic frictions would be the "minimum spec" for that use, I suspect.
To me, the "minimum spec" or "default" would be AT LEAST the OEM spec in doing an upgrade to brakes. That would mean the booster, too, plus adding the semi-metallic frictions AND some higher-spec fresh brake fluid (with new rubber lines) too. That would ensure the safety margin I would hope would be there, if it was ever needed. Like anything else . . . everybody does what they are most comfortable doing or dealing with. The individual's judgment call.
As Tire Rack does their comparison tire tests, perhaps a "brake off" could be arranged? Would need a few sets of tires on the same model of wheel, different brake friction suppliers (using both drum/drum and disc/drum, plus a "conversion kit" car. Interesting results, various combinations tested, fun, expensive, and time consuming.
CBODY67
The booster really doesn't care what master cylinder it's hooked to, but it's the master cylinder that's specific to disc or drum systems. The "disc brake specific" term came to also be applied to the dual diaphragm boosters as that was their primary application.
Disc brake systems CAN need more boost to get that last bit of performance from a disc brake system. But the ultimate stopping power can also relate to brake system friction materials, too. When a drum brake system "fades" from repeated use, no amount of boost can make the car stop well. Add some semi-metallic frictions, and it stops better and for more braking applications. Might more boost be needed in such situations? Probably YES.
We all live in different areas of the country, with differing geography and such. For one owner, the disc brake upgrade (using the existing drum brake booster) might work well AND stop well enough for that particular environment (even in an emergency situation) and brake frictions on the car. A more "race-type" driver in mountainous/hilly terrain, things might be different. That extra boost and the semi-metallic frictions would be the "minimum spec" for that use, I suspect.
To me, the "minimum spec" or "default" would be AT LEAST the OEM spec in doing an upgrade to brakes. That would mean the booster, too, plus adding the semi-metallic frictions AND some higher-spec fresh brake fluid (with new rubber lines) too. That would ensure the safety margin I would hope would be there, if it was ever needed. Like anything else . . . everybody does what they are most comfortable doing or dealing with. The individual's judgment call.
As Tire Rack does their comparison tire tests, perhaps a "brake off" could be arranged? Would need a few sets of tires on the same model of wheel, different brake friction suppliers (using both drum/drum and disc/drum, plus a "conversion kit" car. Interesting results, various combinations tested, fun, expensive, and time consuming.
CBODY67
Boyd
Member
So, where do you find disk specific master and booster?
Correct disc master and booster for your car should be available through most parts stores.
A quick search of Rock Auto shows a number of options:
Disc brake master cyl:
1969 PLYMOUTH FURY 7.2L 440cid V8 Master Cylinder | RockAuto
Disc brake booster:
1969 PLYMOUTH FURY 7.2L 440cid V8 Power Brake Booster | RockAuto
A quick search of Rock Auto shows a number of options:
Disc brake master cyl:
1969 PLYMOUTH FURY 7.2L 440cid V8 Master Cylinder | RockAuto
Disc brake booster:
1969 PLYMOUTH FURY 7.2L 440cid V8 Power Brake Booster | RockAuto
'
The disc brake master is readily available, you will need to find a core double diaphragm Bendix booster and have it rebuilt. Rock auto among many other rebuilders can handle the rebuild.
Dave
The disc brake master is readily available, you will need to find a core double diaphragm Bendix booster and have it rebuilt. Rock auto among many other rebuilders can handle the rebuild.
Dave
bfwillie
New Member
Ross, will these disk brake parts work on a 68 New Yorker? If so will I need to upgrade the rear wheel cylinders along with the master cylinder and proportioning valve?
Rear wheel cylinders and drums will be the same as a drum/drum car - no real difference.
Yes, a 68 NYr disc brake system will be perfect - GRAB EVERYTHING in terms of master, booster, check valve, lines, prop valve, and front flex hoses. Some of those items (flex hoses especially) should be fir reference/patterns and replaced with new,but others can be reconditioned (booster, master), and will be exacyly right.
Yes, a 68 NYr disc brake system will be perfect - GRAB EVERYTHING in terms of master, booster, check valve, lines, prop valve, and front flex hoses. Some of those items (flex hoses especially) should be fir reference/patterns and replaced with new,but others can be reconditioned (booster, master), and will be exacyly right.
bfwillie
New Member
Also is there any rear brake disk conversion that can be done with used affordable parts?
If you don’t mind answering is there a year and make/model that I can use as a complete system that will bolt on?
From your response I guess there is not a year that I can us or used parts that will convert the rear to disk brakes.
Also do you have any idea what rear seat will work? I have the model that has the notched seat with the plastic piece that goes across the complete back with the drop down New Yorker logo that fits into the center of the notched seats
Thank for getting back to me
A rear disc brake system is money spent unnecessarily. I say don't bother, and use that money to buy the bestcfront disc components.
I don't know of a factory bolt on rear disc system.
70 - 73 C body front disc setup COMPLETE from wheels to master (spindles, rotors, EVERYTHING) will bolt up to a 68 NYr, however, if your car has column shift, the 71 - 73 flatter/wider disc booster will interfere with your column shift linkage. In that case it's best to source the 65-68 Bendix disc booster. If you have a floor shift then either booster will work fine.
I am not sure about the rear seat...65-68 rear seats and package trays with the dropdown notch in the middle were very similar, but I believe there are differences between 2 and four door dimensions both seat back and package tray.
I don't know of a factory bolt on rear disc system.
70 - 73 C body front disc setup COMPLETE from wheels to master (spindles, rotors, EVERYTHING) will bolt up to a 68 NYr, however, if your car has column shift, the 71 - 73 flatter/wider disc booster will interfere with your column shift linkage. In that case it's best to source the 65-68 Bendix disc booster. If you have a floor shift then either booster will work fine.
I am not sure about the rear seat...65-68 rear seats and package trays with the dropdown notch in the middle were very similar, but I believe there are differences between 2 and four door dimensions both seat back and package tray.
This disc brake booster also fits a 69 with slight modifications to mounting plate (make hole bigger). Also will likely interfere with column shift. Fits my floor shift fine.
1976 PLYMOUTH FURY 6.6L 400cid V8 Power Brake Booster | RockAuto
1976 PLYMOUTH FURY 6.6L 400cid V8 Power Brake Booster | RockAuto
Similar threads
