Dynamat
- Thread starter mag162
- Start date
I have this in my 440 dart and 87 ram, great for the price, no smell (a lot of rumors on it) sticks way better than dynamat and costs around $20 for a 6"x 25' roll at HD.
I agree that it's the same stuff as the FatMat that I used, although the stuff in the pic might be thinner. I have read of guys using "Peel and Seal" from Lowes as an alternative and they've said it is the same thickness as the FatMat. The big difference was the width of the roll, with the FatMat being 18" wide rather than 6". Cost per square foot works out to about half and it's right at the store. Shop Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing at Lowes.com
I'm thinking that the 6" wide stuff might be easier to install too.
When I do the carpet in my Barracuda, I'm probably going to use the Peel and Seal.
One other "tip"... Buy a J-Roller for doing counter top laminate to roll it down.
Automotive "underlayment" has typically been jute padding of varying thicknesses. The OEM pad under the carpet of my '80 Newport is about 3" thick, which effectively hides the console shift capabilities in the front floor section. In some GM pickups of the later 1990s, the pad is 3+" thick, with foil "heat shields" where necessary between the layers.
CBODY67
On the subject of "building materials", I saw some hardwood floor underlayment (Pergo and such) that looked like it would make great watershields for the doors. Especially on the GM cars which generally had thick black paper rather than the clear plastic sheet that Chrysler usually used. Might allow some sound deadening, too?
CBODY67
CBODY67
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
It might be cheaper, but at 6 inches wide, (4 inches if you go by the image) it will take forever to apply.
I was in Lowes today and looked at the Peel and Seal. I was going to buy some for my Barracuda.
It's about half the thickness of the FatMat I used on my 300. I left it on the shelf for right now... I'm going to research this a little more.
It's about half the thickness of the FatMat I used on my 300. I left it on the shelf for right now... I'm going to research this a little more.
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
WissaMan
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Just wanted to relate my experience with sound barrier material. I installed the self-adhesive type with metal backing on the floor pan of a Toyota MR2. Unfortunately, the car developed a rust hole in the underbody where it wasn't easy to see and as water made its way into that spot, it got trapped under the sound barrier and gradually caused rust to spread. Now, I'm not saying the sound barrier caused more rust than if it wasn't there. But I wanted to fix the hole and put POR-15 all around there so I had to remove the barrier and man was it a PITA getting that sticky gooey stuff off!
After I repaired the rust and did the POR-15, I put this stuff on and I don't know that I can honestly tell too much difference: "Cascade VB-4 Acoustic Barrier Pad 14 sq. ft." from www.parts-express.com!, but then again, that car didn't suffer from rattles or squeeks, rather I was trying to insulate the passenger compartment from road/engine/exhaust noise.
I guess the point I just wanted to bring up is to think about the future and if you think you'll ever need to get behind the sound barrier, if it's the gooey adhesive type, it's going to be a messy pain to remove...
After I repaired the rust and did the POR-15, I put this stuff on and I don't know that I can honestly tell too much difference: "Cascade VB-4 Acoustic Barrier Pad 14 sq. ft." from www.parts-express.com!, but then again, that car didn't suffer from rattles or squeeks, rather I was trying to insulate the passenger compartment from road/engine/exhaust noise.
I guess the point I just wanted to bring up is to think about the future and if you think you'll ever need to get behind the sound barrier, if it's the gooey adhesive type, it's going to be a messy pain to remove...
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Hi Leaburn.
Just checking to make sure that you tucked the plastic into the lower horizontal channel when you installed the door plastic right?
I see it's taped as well but if it rains, I would suspect it might leak onto the door panels if that tape gives out.
Just checking to make sure that you tucked the plastic into the lower horizontal channel when you installed the door plastic right?
I see it's taped as well but if it rains, I would suspect it might leak onto the door panels if that tape gives out.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I used GT mat for my Polara.
I read too many reviews that the peel & stick from the local DIY stores has too much tar in the product.
It will stink on a hot day & possibly slide around if stepped on or rip
I read too many reviews that the peel & stick from the local DIY stores has too much tar in the product.
It will stink on a hot day & possibly slide around if stepped on or rip
How many SQFT for a typical Cbody? More specifically for a Fusey?
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Depends on what you want to cover
The main floor is about 60sq ft
The trunk is another 60 approximately
If you want to do the doors then just start measuring
Total it up and add say 10-15% extra
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Old thread, but I'm coming up to this point in my project. Is there any reason to cut out the body plug holes and then put the body plugs in? Or, should I put the plugs in first and then apply the Fat Mat over top?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks. I didn't really want to spend the time cutting out all those holes, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't a reason for it.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
The only ones might be the frame ones but if you ever needed to pull the frame you could cut them open.
Alan
Alan
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Good point Alan, thank you.
I just put mine over the top of the plugs too. As said, I can cut them out easily enough if I ever need to get at the mount holes.
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