Electronic control unit tester

Wollfen

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Jul 18, 2012
Messages
6,906
Reaction score
5,445
Location
Greenville NC
Would be nice to find one of these for sure.

Tester.jpg
 
Would be nice to find one of these for sure.

View attachment 246258
Gary,

I am embarrassed to admit, I bought one of these early in my career. At the time, I didn't understand how a transistor worked and all the "smart guys" seemed to have/use one. I would sell it to you, but then I would be ashamed of myself for that too.
s-l1600.jpg


So all the tester is doing is watching for a pulse, I bet the Miller box you showed is the same. If you go to the ground side of the coil with your voltmeter, you should see a pulse while cranking. +/- of the DMM leads won't matter negative voltage doesn't exist here, just backward leads.

If no pulse at the coil, try the pick up coil while cranking on AC volts, it should be generating some voltage. If not, the pick up is too far from the reluctor or open, OHM the pickup coil to test this.

There is another method, stolen from @traintech55 , where you could connect the pick up coil from a spare distributor (I'd bet a dollar that you have one) and spin it by hand while checking spark at the coil.

If all that fails, the ignition module has probably got a failed transistor... and you've done what the tester could do (and more).

Edit: don't forget to check for an open ballast resistor... it does happen.
 
I like my method better. Swap out for another one. If the problem goes away, it was the module.
If it doesn’t it's the ballast resistor...
 
That is crazy. I don't even see how it hooks up missing a adapter?
 
I bet you can use a known good dizzy, a control unit and some sort of harness to make a light or led flash when turning the dizzy shaft. That would be a money maker there.
 
I like my method better. Swap out for another one. If the problem goes away, it was the module.
If it doesn’t it's the ballast resistor...

Easier way: If the vehicle seems like it wants to start with the starter engaged, then it is the ballast resistor. If the vehicle doesn't show any sign of life with starter engaged, but then seems to fire a cylinder or two in the run position it is the module!
 
Aren't there some circuits in the module that are always open or closed? A reliable "ohm" reading for the closed ones? Something that a VOM could be used to check?

Reason I say this is that in a Chilton book I found to troubleshoot the ELB system, a VOM was used to check voltages and resistance in many places, etc. Time consuming, but no real need for that fancy Chrysler ELB tester that always seemed to "fail" ELB units, it seems. AND, our GM tech used that book to check out and fix a Volare that we'd traded for, which wouldn't run.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
What about a bench test for the module?
Any ideas?
Go back and look at the clip Wollfen posted...
transistor-current-explanation.png
(image stolen from the internet)
You need the pulsing of the pickup @ point "b" to cause the transistor to open/close the circuit EXACTLY as points would, but minus a mechanical switch. "c" and "e" are the same as a simple switch circuit...
QVPLG.jpg
(image stolen from the internet)
So 2 pins from your module are the switch circuit (ground side of the coil).

The base of the transistor is controlled by the pulse of the pickup coil...

Recreating the circuit shouldn't be too hard, but seems like more trouble than it's worth...

Many DMM's have a bar graph available on the display, it works good for checking the pulse. And a spark tester for any checks of the secondary coil... I like these "blinky" ones
p31480.jpg


The pickup coil check the Miller tool did, was just a continuity check... use an Ohmmeter for superior results... windings that have varied from spec are damaged and will send a weaker pulse, and tend to get to get weaker as they heat up (dies while driving).
 
Back
Top