I am interested in building an engine test stand and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this? I would like to find plans that include a bill of materials. I plan to purchase the steel from Metal Mart or someplace similar and they will make all the cuts if you can provide the specifics.
Engine Test Stand
- Thread starter 66/440
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Look on Ebay and search for "engine test stand". There's plans on there that would have what you are looking for.
Have you built one? I need something that can not only handle a small block but B/RB and a first gen hemi, so I want to make sure that it is sturdy enough and has the flexibility to adapt. I have seen lots of different designs but I really would like to find someone who has actually built one or has experience using one so I can get some feedback on do's and dont's.
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
I believe that Engine Power had a show on building one.
I was thinking about building one and decided I don't have the room. I looked into some different designs and they all are pretty simple. Just a frame with a mount for the radiator and the engine itself. I was just going to "wing it" and use bed frame (cheap angle iron!) for the frame and figure out some mounts.
A friend built one that I can use if I need it... Nothing too fancy, he used an old cart for the base. It can take up room in his shop rather than mine.
A friend built one that I can use if I need it... Nothing too fancy, he used an old cart for the base. It can take up room in his shop rather than mine.
65Fury440
Senior Member
I also have been thinking about a run stand.
The biggest reasons for me are oil leaks and breaking in the cam with new headers.
I talked to one dyno shop who wants $1000 for 4 hours. I can't justify that much money.
Maybe a guy could modify one of these stands to hold up to a half hour break in?
Jacks, Lifts & Hydraulics - 1000 lb Engine Cradle For Chevrolet and Chrysler
The price sure seems cheap enough.
Here's some plans off Ebay.
Engine Start / Test Stand Plans - Ford, GM, Mopar
The biggest reasons for me are oil leaks and breaking in the cam with new headers.
I talked to one dyno shop who wants $1000 for 4 hours. I can't justify that much money.
Maybe a guy could modify one of these stands to hold up to a half hour break in?
Jacks, Lifts & Hydraulics - 1000 lb Engine Cradle For Chevrolet and Chrysler
The price sure seems cheap enough.
Here's some plans off Ebay.
Engine Start / Test Stand Plans - Ford, GM, Mopar
I found this from the Engine Power show you mentioned:
Engine Test Stand Deluxe - Neely Precision LLC
Great stand but too pricey for me, But some good ideas, Thanks!
I want a test stand for the same reasons you stated. Additionally I have had several cams I have had issues with and this would allow me easy access to make changes.
$250/hr sounds pretty expensive. I have spoken with a couple of local shops and if I wait until race season is over they go for $175/hr. still expensive but I don't think I will need 4 hours.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
With some basic fab skills you could build one, careful planning and part selection. It doesn't have to be really high tech. I couldn't justify the space it will take up with the amount of time I would really use it
I am having trouble thinking on this idea. I am not seeing the point of the test stand run. To run on a stand you have to bolt in the engine, wire it, attach and fill the cooling system... then undo everything to put it in the car.
I could see this if you were building engines and wanted to run them in before shipping... but draining the coolant completely afterwards would be a PITA. Why not just install the essentials in the car and test run/cam break in? Then if all was right, you wouldn't need a disassembly
Is there something I am missing about this?.
I could see this if you were building engines and wanted to run them in before shipping... but draining the coolant completely afterwards would be a PITA. Why not just install the essentials in the car and test run/cam break in? Then if all was right, you wouldn't need a disassembly
Is there something I am missing about this?.
livininharrow
Senior Member
it is nice to be able to run an engine in and break in the cam etc on a stand before installing in the vehicle. using used headers so you don't burn your nice ceramic coated ones till you get timing and carb issues dealt with. any oil leaks can be addressed before the engine goes in the vehicle. shall I go on?
Frank Brooks
Member
I have a full set of plans for one that I bought in 2011. Let me know if you want them.
Frank Brooks
Member
PM me an email address and I'll forward it to you.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Yea $800 headers and a freshly painted engine compartment make a run stand look good to me.
I wasn't planning on replacing the 440 in my car currently, but I picked up a stroker, thus the backwards approach.
I plan on smoking the engine for leaks, but am not really confident as I have never personally done a crankcase leak test that way.
Your point about draining the anti freeze is a good one. If a guy was building a run stand, the drain for the radiator needs to be lower than the water jackets.
A run stand would be the way to go I'd be a lot happier fixing any leak on a run stand than in
the car.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Same here on the distilled water. I read about a company in TN that did a magazine article's RB stroker, and used smoke to find a leaking rear main seal before start up. I bought fittings to make a coffee can smoker. figure it's worth a shot. I took lots of time on my rear main, don't think it will be a problem but.....
I built a smoker using a plastic 5 gal paint bucket and an air mattress inflating pump from Walmart. Works pretty good.
65Fury440
Senior Member
How are you making the smoke?
Hadn't really thought of it from that angle... too much time trying to beat the clock I suppose. Until you run the engine and get an oil film at that seal, I wouldn't know where to begin with a smoke test. To smoke a crank case for leaks you would have to give some pressure to simulate WOT crank case pressures, but a functioning PCV should keep those close to atmosphere... I will come back to this if my brain kicks in... thanks for another twist in the plot
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