Exhaust leak, my broken bolt

If you are handy with a mig welder build up the weld atop the broken stud then weld a nut atop the weld. Out she comes.
No head removal no drilling
 
If you are handy with a mig welder build up the weld atop the broken stud then weld a nut atop the weld. Out she comes.
No head removal no drilling
I use this trick all the time on aluminum heads, but I haven't tried it on iron heads. The weld won't stick to aluminum.:D
 
the first rule of extractors is that if the bolt was rusted in so well that it broke off, an extractor will never get it to move either and being smaller in diameter and hardened to the point of being brittle its guaranteed to break also...since they're tapered they also jam into the hole, expanding the od of the stud and jamming it even tighter....the rust is the problem and it needs to be broken free with lots of alternating oxy acetelene heat and penetrant to stand a chance of getting it out...this can also be a very expensive learning experience as you dont want to drill it cockeyed, off center, hit a water jacket or god forbid break off an extractor in it...letting a competent machinist tackle it may be safer and cheaper in the long run
 
Kroil is the best penetrant by far, it’ll get you your best shot at getting that out.
 
Here is my 2 cents. Yes the cyl. head must be removed. Avoid extractors, as volksworld and Big John stated, breaking off, expanding the stud or bolt in the hole will only compound removal. A 3/16 left twist cobalt drill bit, a candle, variable speed drill and a acetylene torch will be needed. Do this in a open area w/ no combustibles around. Have the cyl. head facing exhaust ports up. Have your drill ready to use. Heat the area around the till it begins to glow cherry red. Then jam the candle into the bolt hole, wear protective gloves. Carefully drill out the broken stud. Any questions PM me.
 
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Quit monkeying around!

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Here is my 2 cents. Yes the cyl. head must be removed. Avoid extractors, as volksworld and Big John stated, breaking off, expanding the stud or bolt in the hole will only compound removal. A 3/16 left twist cobalt drill bit, a candle, variable speed drill and a acetylene torch will be needed. Do this in a open area w/ no combustibles around. Have the cyl. head facing exhaust ports up. Have your drill ready to use. Heat the area around the till it begins to glow cherry red. Then jam the candle into the bolt hole, wear protective gloves. Carefully drill out the broken stud. Any questions PM me.
I have never tried the candle trick, I have heard about it, just never tried it
 
I also had this problem. I pulled the heads and using my drill press, drilled the studs out of the head. I did not touch the threads. With a tap I removed the remaining metal and all the original thread remained.


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I also had this problem. I pulled the heads and using my drill press, drilled the studs out of the head. I did not touch the threads. With a tap I removed the remaining metal and all the original thread remained.


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My experience is that sometimes you can start to remove the remaining stud metal/thread area with a prick punch, then a carpenters awl, you can wind it out as you would with a old/damage helicoil if your really really really lucky. Then you can do any cleanup with a tap if you want, of course this all depends on that you drill completely on center. But even if your a little off center you can still collapse the remaining stud and pull it out with very very very 'needle' nose pliers. (electronic kind). Just drilling it out by a less experienced mechanic and running a tap down the hole can lead to diminished threads, believe me I've been down that road and when you apply torque the bolt/stud will strip-out then it's helicoil time. And that can be a ***** if you assembled the part into a inaccessible area. 2¢
 
success! First off, I want to thank everyone who took the time to answer me. I took the easy way out. I had the car taken to a local shop, I explained what I needed and if he (mechanic) couldn't get it done to tell me up-front. He said he had done the extraction before with good results. he nailed the old bolt dead on.
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success! First off, I want to thank everyone who took the time to answer me. I took the easy way out. I had the car taken to a local shop, I explained what I needed and if he (mechanic) couldn't get it done to tell me up-front. He said he had done the extraction before with good results. he nailed the old bolt dead on. View attachment 380717
Nice! How much did that set you back though......?

:poke:
 
2 hr = $180.00, The tow bill $50. X2 $100. Like my wife says "there're just money pits" but I reminder her, it's my pension, I don't smoke, drink or pay some ones rent
 
success! First off, I want to thank everyone who took the time to answer me. I took the easy way out. I had the car taken to a local shop, I explained what I needed and if he (mechanic) couldn't get it done to tell me up-front. He said he had done the extraction before with good results. he nailed the old bolt dead on. View attachment 380717
It’s got to be a relief to have it done. Good decision!
 
I read the receipt and I am amazed that it backed with a easy out. Awesome that it all worked out well. Did he install the manifold also?
 
no, I sent the manifold to a local engine builder and he cleaned the surfaces for me, I'll be putting it together
 
I just read through your thread -- I'm glad it had a happy ending!

Just wanted to add my .02 on loosing rusty nuts and bolts: I agree with the folks that suggest hitting them with a torch. I do that too and it works every time.
 
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