Fender adjustment help

300rag

It's Not Going to Shift Itself
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I have to bring the left fender forward about 1/4 to 3/8 inch on the 2 door 69 Monaco and then adjust the hood. In order to do this, how many bolts do I have to find, and does the hood have to come off to slide the fender forward? Trying to see if this is a one man job. I know we have a few 69 Monaco/Polara owners here who have done this.
 
I have to bring the left fender forward about 1/4 to 3/8 inch on the 2 door 69 Monaco and then adjust the hood. In order to do this, how many bolts do I have to find, and does the hood have to come off to slide the fender forward? Trying to see if this is a one man job. I know we have a few 69 Monaco/Polara owners here who have done this.

The fender is bolted to the firewall and the hood hinge. Loosen the bolts on the top and bottom of the fender next to the firewall. Also loosen the bolts that hold the hood hinge to the fender. Next loosen the fender mount bolt on the top and bottom of the core support. Some models also have a couple of small bolts that hold the splash pan to the frame, these will have to be removed and reinstalled after the fender is moved. You should now be able to pull the fender forward. You may also have to loosen the bumper support brackets to get enough clearance to move the fender, you should also prop the hood open with a stick or similar item to take tension off of the hood hinge to fender bolts. I assume that you are having clearance issues when you are trying to open the door. If so, this would be a good time to check the hinge pins on the door for excessive wear. Open the door about half way and lift up on the door handle or the bottom of the door.
If you can lift the door more than about 1/8 of an inch, you need new hinge pins, a common failure on these cars. Getting at the hinge pins is a major pain in the butt. To access the hinge pins, you will need to remove the front fender or the door. Depending on the amount of rust, removing the door might not be a good option as this can result in a lot of broken bolts that will have to be drilled out on the hinge mounts, another pain in the butt. Sometimes the mounts for the fender become bent and will need to be straightened. Usually that type of damage can be readily seen. Look at the fender on the other side to see if both sets of mounts look the same measuring as necessary. Replacement hinge pins and bushings still available. The hood is adjusted by loosing the top bolts on the hood hinge which is slotted.
 
The fender is bolted to the firewall and the hood hinge. Loosen the bolts on the top and bottom of the fender next to the firewall. Also loosen the bolts that hold the hood hinge to the fender. Next loosen the fender mount bolt on the top and bottom of the core support. Some models also have a couple of small bolts that hold the splash pan to the frame, these will have to be removed and reinstalled after the fender is moved. You should now be able to pull the fender forward. You may also have to loosen the bumper support brackets to get enough clearance to move the fender, you should also prop the hood open with a stick or similar item to take tension off of the hood hinge to fender bolts. I assume that you are having clearance issues when you are trying to open the door. If so, this would be a good time to check the hinge pins on the door for excessive wear. Open the door about half way and lift up on the door handle or the bottom of the door.
If you can lift the door more than about 1/8 of an inch, you need new hinge pins, a common failure on these cars. Getting at the hinge pins is a major pain in the butt. To access the hinge pins, you will need to remove the front fender or the door. Depending on the amount of rust, removing the door might not be a good option as this can result in a lot of broken bolts that will have to be drilled out on the hinge mounts, another pain in the butt. Sometimes the mounts for the fender become bent and will need to be straightened. Usually that type of damage can be readily seen. Look at the fender on the other side to see if both sets of mounts look the same measuring as necessary. Replacement hinge pins and bushings still available. The hood is adjusted by loosing the top bolts on the hood hinge which is slotted.

Sounds to me like it really would be better to have and assistant for this process. The bumper bracket has to be loosened anyway, as it has to come forward on the left as well.
 
Sounds to me like it really would be better to have and assistant for this process. The bumper bracket has to be loosened anyway, as it has to come forward on the left as well.

I am sure @Tobias74 and I will be available....we work for Burgers and Beer...:) @CanCritter is likely out of hibernation and roaming the East Coast by now....I will have the Wife leave out some cookies that usually works
 
I am sure @Tobias74 and I will be available....we work for Burgers and Beer...:) @CanCritter is likely out of hibernation and roaming the East Coast by now....I will have the Wife leave out some cookies that usually works
You better get back soon. You need to remedy the fact that there are no Sublime Rams on your lot.
 
you will need to loosen (remove) the wheel well screws and the fender braces.
Bottom and top of the core support
Bottom of the fender (rear)
Hood hinge, best just remove.
Nut at the back of the fender inside above the door hinge.
Top of the cowl.


Alan
 
Last edited:
you will need to loosen (remove) the wheel well screws and the fender braces.
Bottom and top of the core support
Bottom of the fender
Hood hinge, best just remove.
Nut at the back of the fender inside above the door hinge.
Top of the cowl.


Alan
Definitely helper territory. Thanks.
 
You probably do. I got an invite from "you" last week for the big weekend sale. Or they were just looking for a scapegoat if the sale didn't go well.
It didn't and they are...lol

You fit the demographic to be invited....Old Man in a Hat was search criteria
 
...we work for Burgers and Beer...:) ...

Beer and Bratwurst is also okay Peter.

Hmmm......seems to be a common element here.

warsteiner.jpg
 
Probably best if we do the work first otherwise no guarantee of the quality of the labour...
IMG_7485.JPG
 
you will need to loosen (remove) the wheel well screws and the fender braces.
Bottom and top of the core support
Bottom of the fender (rear)
Hood hinge, best just remove.
Nut at the back of the fender inside above the door hinge.
Top of the cowl.


Alan
What a PIA. Also needed to loosen the battery tray and grille. Got that done, now I have to nudge the door back about 3/16" and should be good then. Since I had to loosen the grille, I took it out.
 
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