Fire WAITING to happen!

Isaiah Estrada

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We have been steadily making progress on the 2DHT New Yorker, hoping to have it out by May! I think it’s very possible… trunk is now welded in, going to work from the rear forward. Next is to tackle the roof, a lot of rust around the front and rear window… going to cut some pieces of metal and patch them in as needed!

We’re going along at a good pace as I said before, so I thought I’d get a head start and tackle the firewall! Plan is to strip to bare metal, prime, block sand then paint etc etc. I thought I’d start at the bulkhead connector. Popped off the middle connector and was stumped

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Stumped, I made a post on Facebook on the C Body Mopar Owners group. I guess these are the 2 ammeter wires, a very old ammeter bypass! Had to have been done pre 1980. Found where the wires were spliced to… man what a crappy job

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Seems like a FIRE waiting to happen!!! I’m going to have to get a new bulkhead connector and do some serious repair. Gonna have to return the wires to factory and then do the proper ammeter bypass. This makes me wonder, is this why the car was parked in the first place??

As some may have read in my prior threads, I was able to get a hold of a NICE set of 72 C Body disc brakes for the car! Was bitter sweet, as I already had awesome Cragars for the 68 but they were 14s. Just ordered a set of 15’s… same SS style, just an inch bigger. Going to see if I can trade my 14s for a cool old set of Rockets OR Cragar Star Wires! If any of you happen to have some 15x7 (or 8) Rockets or Star Wires and want to trade for Cragar SS wheels let me know!

Otherwise I may keep them for a future car. I want my next car in the future to be a 62 Chrysler. 2DHT or a wagon! My dream car …

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The 14’s before I put them on the 68! Waiting for the identical 15’s to replace these now.
 
Sent you some stuff via messenger. If your gauge cluster has been rebuilt and refurbished, you don't actually need to bypass the amp gauge, JUST bypass the bulkhead connector B.S. You'll see when you read my stuff.

Cheers!
 
I’d like to inform you that a 1962 Chrysler has 12” drum brakes and some 14” wheels won’t fit over the drums on those. They originally came with 14” wheels, but some 14’s won’t fit.
 
I seem to remember that there is, somewhere on this forum, an topic advocating to get rid of the bulkhead connector, because it provides an unreliable connection.

EDIT : Yes, here :
Bulkhead Re-visited
Sudden death
I wouldn't say either of those threads are advocating getting rid of the bulkhead connector.

There is some thought to adding a wire that carries the charging current directly to the alternator rather than using the connection that carries current through the ammeter and back to the alternator. And there are some that advocate running a sperate wire through the firewall for power because that may cause an issue (although the '65 mentioned in the one post wouldn't need this)

The bulkhead connector, as long as the connections are clean, is pretty trouble free otherwise.
 
One can always purchase new connector terminals for the bulkhead connector, if they're FUBAR. OR, buy an after market re=pop, if NOS isn't available. I just use direct wire through a grommeted hole in the firewall for the POWER conductors, but thus far have been able to leave the sleeping pooch in the shade otherwise. Even the newly acquired 1983 D150 Miser still uses an ammeter and bulkhead connector. The FACT that this venerable arrangement along with a Slant Six driving a 833 4 speed tranny, a squareback alternator and no BS power accessories all was available as late as 1983 offers testimony to how GOOD this system was. '83 WAS the LAST year, as far as the /6 State side went though. Point is, the bulkhead connector wasn't too bad. I think they changed the material by 1983 though....
 
I said it before, I'll say it again. Buy De-Oxit and use on the bulkhead connector or any other connector. It cleans and prevents corrosion and will improve the conductivity of the connection thus reducing heat and current. The electrical systems in our cars are far from ideal, but this will help.
 
I said it before, I'll say it again. Buy De-Oxit and use on the bulkhead connector or any other connector. It cleans and prevents corrosion and will improve the conductivity of the connection thus reducing heat and current. The electrical systems in our cars are far from ideal, but this will help.

Thx 4 reminding me. Will get some.
 
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