First day out with Sport Fury. Not the best.

[65sporty]

With a ruptured diaphragm it would have a small vacuum leak, you may want to add a little more advance than the 5 degrees you have now when you swap out the distributor.

 

[Joseph James]

For those that noticed the missing power steering cap, I got a new one. Previous owner had aluminum foil and and pony tail holder around it.

So, a big thanks to Murray Park for having one to sell me!

 

[65sporty]

Change out that p/s return hose, the one with the split

 

[cbarge]

What did the reman distributor cost?
Since you will be handling the dizzy,put the Pertronix in the new dizzy and be done with the points.
Seriously.
If no resistance on the vacuum pod,replace it. If it leaks yes it will affect the way the engine idles.
Lots available on e bay.
Just make sure the degree number is the same or less. it is stamped on the vacuum advance arm.

I agree with Thrashingcows set her up without the vacuum advance. makes sure your vacuum port is capped for the dizzy at the carburetor
19 inches is good but still you need to address other issues.

 

[cbarge]

For those that noticed the missing power steering cap, I got a new one. Previous owner had aluminum foil and and pony tail holder around it.

So, a big thanks to Murray Park for having one to sell me!

View attachment 260983

I would replace that rotten ground cable going to the battery.

 

[Joseph James]

Change out that p/s return hose, the one with the split

I bought the new line, just have prioritized the current problem.

 

[Joseph James]

I would replace that rotten ground cable going to the battery.

It's on the list. Many things like that to do.

 

[Joseph James]

What did the reman distributor cost?
Since you will be handling the dizzy,put the Pertronix in the new dizzy and be done with the points.
Seriously.
If no resistance on the vacuum pod,replace it. If it leaks yes it will affect the way the engine idles.
Lots available on e bay.
Just make sure the degree number is the same or less. it is stamped on the vacuum advance arm.

I agree with Thrashingcows set her up without the vacuum advance. makes sure your vacuum port is capped for the dizzy at the carburetor
19 inches is good but still you need to address other issues.

Reman was $77 plus $8 core at O'Reilly's. So far, they have been consistent with having parts or getting them in a timely manner.

 

[halifaxhops]

Yes will act like a vacuum leak and no vac advance either.

 

[Joseph James]

New distributor on . Included new points, which I didn't expect. Dialed it in with vacuum gauge. Had 20", started on carb and it was down to 15" when sleet hit. I'll work on that next clear day we have.

My friend pointed out the kickdown linkages over the stall in gear issue. Someone put the rod on the cowl and fell off when we pushed the car back into the garage after cleaning engine bay. We found it in the dark. Car may have rolled over it, so I'm going to do FSM procedure on kickdown just to be sure.

 

[Joseph James]

Clay like substance in carburetor. This is a fresh reman!

Second pic is after disassembly of carburetor. That is some kind of thread that was attached to the check ball under Venturi assembly (I think that is the proper name).

Sunday, I double checked timing with the friend who helped me with engine swap. The car would only run with idle too high. It would stall coming to a stop, so I am cleaning the carburetor.

 

[cbarge]

Glad you found the carb issue.

 

[Joseph James]

Well, carb is a lot better. I can't get 600 idle like FSM says. I'm at 800, but it purrs now. No stalling in gear. Haven't drove it yet.

The Cardone distributor is junk. The screw that holds the points was stripped. It was like that out of the box. I thought it waswsupposed to be that way until I noticed my points wouldn't hold a gap. I took my original and used its parts to fix it. Also, the vacuum advance is not working, which is why I bought a reman distributor.

 

[cbarge]

Well, carb is a lot better. I can't get 600 idle like FSM says. I'm at 800, but it purrs now. No stalling in gear. Haven't drove it yet.

The Cardone distributor is junk. The screw that holds the points was stripped. It was like that out of the box. I thought it was supposed to be that way until I noticed my points wouldn't hold a gap. I took my original and used its parts to fix it. Also, the vacuum advance is not working, which is why I bought a reman distributor.

Just a reminder that the vacuum port on the carb for the advance is a timed port. At idle it may not pull enough vacuum for the vacuum advance.
Dont worry about the vacuum advance right now.
Focus on getting that fresh motor tuned.
Keep an eye on the temp gauge!!
750/800 is perfect.
600 is too low on today's shitty gas IDK who disagrees.
Hook up your vacuum gauge and break out the timing light.
Set up the idle mixture screws.
Bump timing up at or near 10 degrees BTDC
re-adjust the idle to where she is happy.
Blip the throttle in between each adjustment and watch the gauge.
Check vacuum reading,adjust accordingly.
Shut her down for a minute then start not touching the gas. Should start first crank no effort needed. Reason?
If she is lean or boils the fuel in the bowl she will need to be enriched up or adjust the accelerator pump next shot notch.
Button down the dizzy clamp and air cleaner go for a drive.
Listen to her and she will tell you what she needs...more/less fuel? more/less timing? how she pulls/shifts?
Test and tune test and tune dude.
Once you figure out where she likes her timing then set the idle for once and for all.
You got this,

Good luck.
(get rid of the point,eh? sheesh LOL )

 

[1978 NYB]

I would add 1973-1975 Mopar electronic ignition or a MSD ignition to your list of stuff to do later.

 

[Joseph James]

I have looked at the Pertronix system. Just have to budget it in.

We redid timing today. I lined it up by hand turning engine. That's how we caught the points problem. Glad I didn't throw away the old distributor.

The 600 rpm idle is from the FSM. Sticker on the fender is 650 for CAP. Even at 800, my ammeter is in discharge territory with headlights on high and in gear. Haven't checked regulator.

Thanks for all your help, cbarge.

 

[cbarge]

No problem.
A multi meter set at 20 volts dc connected to battery terminals will determine whats goung on.
First make sure voltage regulator and all grounds have good connections.

 

[Joseph James]

It ran great. Went out this morning to drive it work and it's gone to $_&@. No high idle. Lurches and sputters, barely run. Kept dying. I doubt it was doing better than 200-300 rpm. It isn't flooding.

My wife is tired of taking me to work. She has asked me to take it somewhere. There is a restoration shop 2 miles from me. No one else in my area will touch a pre 1990 car. I'm not a mechanic. I can change a part, do brakes and stuff but not carburetors.

As Dirty Harry said, a man's got to know his limitations. So, I'm going to let the nearby shop sort it out.

 

[cbarge]

It ran great. Went out this morning to drive it work and it's gone to $_&@. No high idle. Lurches and sputters, barely run. Kept dying. I doubt it was doing better than 200-300 rpm. It isn't flooding.

My wife is tired of taking me to work. She has asked me to take it somewhere. There is a restoration shop 2 miles from me. No one else in my area will touch a pre 1990 car. I'm not a mechanic. I can change a part, do brakes and stuff but not carburetors.

As Dirty Harry said, a man's got to know his limitations. So, I'm going to let the nearby shop sort it out.

via Imgflip Meme Generator

 

[Joseph James]

View attachment 265608via Imgflip Meme Generator

Well, we will see what happens. The owner called me back today. Finish Line Restorations. They have some interesting projects on their site and good reviews.

First question he had was if it had anything other than a stock cam and asked for the build paperwork from the company that did the build. So far, they are the only shop in my area willing to work on a carburetor.
Finish Line Motorworks - Classic Car Restoration & Repair