polara383500
Member
I’m looking to upgrade original front disc brake to willwood or something similar! I don’t see nothing that comes up unless you have drum spindles! Looking for help
Front disc upgrade
- Thread starter polara383500
- Start date
Properly maintained, the factory disc setup is generally superior to any after market setup. If you are a lead foot with a high horse power car, consider converting the rear drums to disc and rebuild the fronts.
Dave
Dave
@polara383500 Maybe this would help
New to Mopars, disc brake questions | For C Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum
New to Mopars, disc brake questions | For C Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum
Back when the cars were new, multi-piston disc brake calipers were "the norm" and had been on Corvettes since they went to their 4 whl power disc brakes in about 1963(?). So there was something of a performance image there. But as time progressed and the cars aged, those calipers had to be rebuilt and it was a bit expensive. Usually, if the moisture-motivated corrosion got bad enough, only NEW calipers would do, in a pre-Stainless Steel sleeved calipers world. So expense was an issue, even for a Corvette owner. But when Stainless Steel Brakles started to sleeve the calipers, things tended to change a bit, although "the damage was done".
Then came the simgle-piston caliper disc brakes. A breakthrough that everybody could embrace. Better braking and they only had one piston to rebuild, so all was well.
Fast-forward to more recent times. Multi-piston disc brakes are now common again, some with 4 pistons/side. Bigger pads and more even clamping force for vehicles that can run 200mph and still stop well from that speed. So we're back in a multi-piston world.
The other issue is that most Chrysler products were sold with power drum brakes back then, making the installation rate of power disc front brakes somewhat low. Which also now affects replacement parts and such. Steering knuckles were specific as to which brake system is on the front, which is why Wilwood's system is to replace power drum brakes. Not sure what it might take to adapt their calipers to the factory disc brake knuckles, but that might be something they might desire to look into?
The downside to modern HP power disc braking systems? Many now come with drilled/slotted rotors, which means that they might be "ground" as they can't be "turned" (unless you have a chest full of cutting bits). End result is a brake job (4 whl) that can be well over $1500.00 in pads and rotors, less labor to install everything (referencing a Land Rover here, not a BMW, using OEM parts).
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Then came the simgle-piston caliper disc brakes. A breakthrough that everybody could embrace. Better braking and they only had one piston to rebuild, so all was well.
Fast-forward to more recent times. Multi-piston disc brakes are now common again, some with 4 pistons/side. Bigger pads and more even clamping force for vehicles that can run 200mph and still stop well from that speed. So we're back in a multi-piston world.
The other issue is that most Chrysler products were sold with power drum brakes back then, making the installation rate of power disc front brakes somewhat low. Which also now affects replacement parts and such. Steering knuckles were specific as to which brake system is on the front, which is why Wilwood's system is to replace power drum brakes. Not sure what it might take to adapt their calipers to the factory disc brake knuckles, but that might be something they might desire to look into?
The downside to modern HP power disc braking systems? Many now come with drilled/slotted rotors, which means that they might be "ground" as they can't be "turned" (unless you have a chest full of cutting bits). End result is a brake job (4 whl) that can be well over $1500.00 in pads and rotors, less labor to install everything (referencing a Land Rover here, not a BMW, using OEM parts).
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
You can piece a system together. The issue becomes the caliper bracket. They don't make one. The hubs are close enough to use on the factory disc spindles so you'd have your choice of rotors.
I ditched the factory rotors, machined some '14 MKZ rotors to fit. Then I made caliper brackets on the mill out of aluminum. I use their Dynalite forged calipers factory booster and master.
Works well though I plan to upgrade to their radial mount calipers at some point down the road.
I ditched the factory rotors, machined some '14 MKZ rotors to fit. Then I made caliper brackets on the mill out of aluminum. I use their Dynalite forged calipers factory booster and master.
Works well though I plan to upgrade to their radial mount calipers at some point down the road.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
As an aside the factory caliper bolt holes are 6 and 7/8's of an inch center to center. Should you ever wish to go that route.
What machining was necessary for the fwd Lincoln rotors to work?
Just curious,
CBODY67
twostick
Senior Member
What system are you looking to "upgrade"?
Wilwood doesn't have a suitable kit for a car as heavy as a Cbody IMHO. None of their rotors are as thick as a factory 69-73 11.75 rotor at 1.25" thick.
If you are talking about a Budd system, there is a procedure to install a Supra rotor that any competent machinist should be able to accomplish for much less than an aftermarket kit.
Mike Pittinaro's Supra Rotor Conversion for (Chrysler) Imperial Budd Brakes
Kevin
Wilwood doesn't have a suitable kit for a car as heavy as a Cbody IMHO. None of their rotors are as thick as a factory 69-73 11.75 rotor at 1.25" thick.
If you are talking about a Budd system, there is a procedure to install a Supra rotor that any competent machinist should be able to accomplish for much less than an aftermarket kit.
Mike Pittinaro's Supra Rotor Conversion for (Chrysler) Imperial Budd Brakes
Kevin
polara383500
Member
Just the front calibers and rotors
bigmoparjeff
Senior Member
Before you do anything, I would inspect the condition of your lower ball joints. If they have any play, you would be better off to just change everything over to the 1969-73 disc brake set-up. The Budd system lower ball joints are not available. You have to get yours rebuilt for $400 a side. Sometimes it's just not worth it to hang onto any the Budd stuff if you're not a stickler for originality.
Jeff
Jeff
if you can lock your wheels up i dont think there is anywhere else to go----unless you are running ralley courses and doing 20 panic stops at each turn---which would mean you dont belong on the course----front brakes do 70% of the work----rear discs look cool----and i have done maybe 30 rear disc brake conversions......
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