Fuel line thread sealer.

[Zymurgy]

I have not had a good time this week working on Goldie. I installed a new fuel pump pushrod. It did not want to go in. I got out the mic and new and old exactly the same. Long story short rod is stuck in block. :Banghead:

Plan B: installing electric fuel pump. (all attemps to remove rod failed, will stay until engine is rebuilt) I do not want to do this but the best solution for now.

What sealer would you guys recommend for a brass to brass fitting coming from the pump?

 

[C Body Bob]

Did you rotate the engine ?

 

[C Body Bob]

I have had good luck loctite thread sealer in a tube. Not the thread locker. The sealer

 

[Zymurgy]

Did you rotate the engine ?

Yes I did. It is so stuck that the fuel pump arm will not shove it back to the cam, and we know how stiff the fuel pump arm is. Bonehead move on my part, dumbest thing I have done so far.

 

[Zymurgy]

One of the worst parts in not being able to test drive the new rear swaybar I installed on Wednesday.

 

[Fratzog]

Sorry about your bad luck. The electric pump should be a good temporary fix.

 

[C Body Bob]

Put some heat on it with a heat gun. Be carefull

 

[Zymurgy]

Put some heat on it with a heat gun. Be carefull

Thanks Bob I'm kind of committed to the electric fuel pump now I have an underling tissue with the block. That push rod has never moved freely since day one, that was the issue the previous owner had too and why I believe my pushrod failed in the first place.

 

[rexus31]

Hence the reason I was pushing you for a total rebuild when it was out. It's no fun having issues like this pop up when the car is "done". Better take stock in a bunch of moving blankets for when you pull the motor. It would be a shame to ruin your freshly detailed engine bay.

 

[Zymurgy]

Scott how did I know that you were right all along, but just didn't listen? I wanted to drive it too bad to wait another year.

 

[commando1]

Harbor Freight has moving mats on sale. $7.99.

 

[Zymurgy]

Funny Stan, the sad part is I saw the sale about a week ago and thought I need to pick up some of those, but for different reason.

 

[Yatzee]

As a plumber by trade I can honestly and accurately tell you that there are only two ways to properly seal chemical or gasoline brass fittings 1) PST teflon sealant in a tube, 2) teflon tape. In either case the sealant should start 2 to 3 threads back from the starting thread and in the case of the tape use thin tape wrapped against the thread directions about three times. No matter what sealant you settle for, none should be forward of the third thread of the fitting lest you cause contamination in the system. Anything that is liquid will seep forward and get in the system as well. These two types of sealant are not affected by heat, acid, solvents or steam and disassembly is quite easy on soft brass fittings. Do not over tighten.

 

[Big_John]

PST in the tube is real good stuff.

I don't like using Teflon tape on gas line because I've seen bits of tape get caught in the needle and seat... more than once. Granted, if you are doing it right (as described above) you minimize the risk... but I still would rather not see tape used.

 

[C Body Bob]

Agree Big John. The tape can be difficult. Stay away from the end & have clean hands & it too can work pretty good

 

[Knebel]

Might I throw in that NPT fittings are supposed to be self sealing!? Normally you would not need any sealant, althou it dosent hurt to use it. I always have put a drop of loctite on it and screwed them in, never a problem. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, very important!!!!

 

[Zymurgy]

Just an update. I got a chance to stop by my shop on the way home and test my installation. I had a couple of line connections I forgot to tighten, but other than that everything worked as planned. I installed it with a relay and got everything tucked away where you can't see it.

I am satisfied for now, I will go back to the mechanical whenever I have the engine rebuilt. No plans for that in the near future.