Gauge Cluster Removal

[Charles Neuhauser]

(1967 Fury II 4dr sedan model) column shift, if that helps

Hey, new to this forum, so if I do something wrong, let me know.
I need to remove my gauge panel to access the dimmer switch and the fuel gauge, but don't know where to start. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[jct]

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Download the service manual

 

[live4theking]

After you get the service manual, which is incredibly thorough you will need to just slowly and careful start to take it apart. Always remember that 50 year old plastic can be real brittle. Be very kind to it. You'll probably find that it's all held in with a bunch of screws and sometimes they are different from one piece to the next so bag the screws and keep them with each individual part.

 

[Charles Neuhauser]

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Download the service manual

After you get the service manual, which is incredibly thorough you will need to just slowly and careful start to take it apart. Always remember that 50 year old plastic can be real brittle. Be very kind to it. You'll probably find that it's all held in with a bunch of screws and sometimes they are different from one piece to the next so bag the screws and keep them with each individual part.

Thanks guys, very helpful. One thing, though, I can't seem to find the page that outlines that. Could someone point me to the right chapter or page?

 

[LeBaron1973]

There may not be any listing of screws provided just take lots of digital photos of how things fit together and carefully bag and label everything.

Kind of like a great big jigsaw puzzle.

Best of luck with your project.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

I didn't look through too much but the part of the manual covering removal of the instrument panel would be Chapter 8, Pages 74-83. Hope this helps!

 

[Davea Lux]

(1967 Fury II 4dr sedan model) column shift, if that helps

Hey, new to this forum, so if I do something wrong, let me know.
I need to remove my gauge panel to access the dimmer switch and the fuel gauge, but don't know where to start. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

The fuel gauges on these cars frequently failed due to a faulty cluster voltage limiter. Before pulling the cluster, you might want to test the limiter, it unplugs from the back of the cluster. The FSM describes how to test it. The other main reason fuel gauges do not work is because of a faulty tank sending unit. You can test the limiter and the gauge simply by hooking a test light to the input lead for the tank sending unit. Unhook the lead first and attach the test light to ground and the unhooked lead. You should get a flashing test light, that tells you the limiter is working. Now ground the input lead and briefly turn on the ignition switch, the gauge should start to climb from empty if it is any good. Leave the key on only for a short time as you can burn out your fuel gauge using this method if you leave the ignition on too long when gauge is still good.
If the gauge and limiter are both working, hook the input lead back to the sending unit and check the tank ground by hooking an alligator clip to the rear bumper and a clean spot on one of the tank seams. If the gauge works when you do this, you know the tank is not properly grounded.

That leaves the sending unit. These fail because corrosion eats up the float or the resistance wire in the sending unit. Sometimes you can install a replacement float, but most of the time you will need a new sending unit. Be very careful to remove all fuel from the tank before attempting to remove the sending unit. Use either brass or plastic tools to remove the lock ring from the sending unit so you do not start a fire or blow yourself up. Use a light that does not have an exposed bulb or light tube, these also can start fires.

If you determine that the gauge is indeed faulty, the FSM directions for pulling the cluster are detailed. Put some blue painters tape on the top of your steering column so you do not scratch it. Most of the time it is easier to unbolt the column part way and drop it down some so that the cluster clears easily when you remove it. When you get the cluster dimmer out, run a resistance test on it with a voltmeter to be sure that is your problem. Sometimes the light switch terminals or contacts inside the switch are corroded preventing power from reaching the dimmer unit.

Dave

 

[Charles Neuhauser]

I didn't look through too much but the part of the manual covering removal of the instrument panel would be Chapter 8, Pages 74-83. Hope this helps!View attachment 162973

Awesome, thanks.

The fuel gauges on these cars frequently failed due to a faulty cluster voltage limiter. Before pulling the cluster, you might want to test the limiter, it unplugs from the back of the cluster. The FSM describes how to test it. The other main reason fuel gauges do not work is because of a faulty tank sending unit. You can test the limiter and the gauge simply by hooking a test light to the input lead for the tank sending unit. Unhook the lead first and attach the test light to ground and the unhooked lead. You should get a flashing test light, that tells you the limiter is working. Now ground the input lead and briefly turn on the ignition switch, the gauge should start to climb from empty if it is any good. Leave the key on only for a short time as you can burn out your fuel gauge using this method if you leave the ignition on too long when gauge is still good.
If the gauge and limiter are both working, hook the input lead back to the sending unit and check the tank ground by hooking an alligator clip to the rear bumper and a clean spot on one of the tank seams. If the gauge works when you do this, you know the tank is not properly grounded.

That leaves the sending unit. These fail because corrosion eats up the float or the resistance wire in the sending unit. Sometimes you can install a replacement float, but most of the time you will need a new sending unit. Be very careful to remove all fuel from the tank before attempting to remove the sending unit. Use either brass or plastic tools to remove the lock ring from the sending unit so you do not start a fire or blow yourself up. Use a light that does not have an exposed bulb or light tube, these also can start fires.

If you determine that the gauge is indeed faulty, the FSM directions for pulling the cluster are detailed. Put some blue painters tape on the top of your steering column so you do not scratch it. Most of the time it is easier to unbolt the column part way and drop it down some so that the cluster clears easily when you remove it. When you get the cluster dimmer out, run a resistance test on it with a voltmeter to be sure that is your problem. Sometimes the light switch terminals or contacts inside the switch are corroded preventing power from reaching the dimmer unit.

Dave

Dave, thanks for the very in depth hints. I have already dropped the tank since it was filled with sludge, and as I learned on Sunday, the lining is disintegrating. I will definitely try what you mentioned to test the gauge and the voltage limiter. Pretty sure it is the sending unit though, the one I took out was all sorts of corroded. Will update tomorrow after going though.

 

[Charles Neuhauser]

Well it was not tomorrow, weather has been unforgiving recently, but I did indeed put in the new fuel tank, and sending unit. Everything is flawless, with the exception of when I fill the tank, the gauge only reads halfway! Out of the two or three times its been filled, it goes exactly to the halfway mark. Since it goes exactly to the same place every time, I think I either put the sending unit in incorrectly, or accidentally got one designed for a different gauge. Still haven't taken out the dash, seems like I shouldn't if I don't need to, only run the risk of breaking something.

 

[live4theking]

I would pull the sending unit out and move the float up and down while someone watches the gauge for you. The arm may need to be adjusted for it to indicate correctly. If you poke around on here there is a thread that tells you how to check the gauge by grounding the sending unit lead. I cannot remember for sure, but I think it should indicate full when grounded.

 

[Charles Neuhauser]

I would pull the sending unit out and move the float up and down while someone watches the gauge for you. The arm may need to be adjusted for it to indicate correctly. If you poke around on here there is a thread that tells you how to check the gauge by grounding the sending unit lead. I cannot remember for sure, but I think it should indicate full when grounded.

Thanks. I assume the gauge works correctly since it smoothly changes in accordance to the fuel level, but I will try both of those suggestions. Maybe once it's not raining for once.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks. I assume the gauge works correctly since it smoothly changes in accordance to the fuel level, but I will try both of those suggestions. Maybe once it's not raining for once.

This has been an ongoing issue with some of the re-production units that were made in China. They have the wrong resistance wire installed on the sending unit. Test it as suggested above, if you can get a full reading with the float all the way up to its limit of travel, you can bend the linkage to adjust it. Otherwise you have a defective unit.

Dave

 

[Charles Neuhauser]

This has been an ongoing issue with some of the re-production units that were made in China. They have the wrong resistance wire installed on the sending unit. Test it as suggested above, if you can get a full reading with the float all the way up to its limit of travel, you can bend the linkage to adjust it. Otherwise you have a defective unit.

Dave

Alright, thanks