Got my 66 383 block back from the machine shop

[Cartel]

Took a few quick pictures. I'm a bit worried anout this front cam bearing. Is it something to take it back for?
$2800 you'd think it would be perfect. I was there all summer. lifter bores look untouched. not sure it thats good or not

 

[furynut65]

Took a few quick pictures. I'm a bit worried anout this front cam bearing. Is it something to take it back for?
$2800 you'd think it would be perfect. I was there all summer. lifter bores look untouched. not sure it thats good or not



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Hey Cartel, I’ve talked to a few Engine builders and they said perfect cam bearing alignment is desirable but the 75% that is open like yours is totally acceptable and okay. There will be plenty of oil pressure and flow. As far as the lifter bores, did you pay to have them honed? If not, they should have at least checked to make sure a lifter slides in and rotates easily in each bore. Otherwise depending on which rings you’ll be running, the bores look good. Hope this helps.

 

[rd92west]

#1 cam bearing looks bad but will work perfectly.
Check very closely the cam bearing further back with several holes is lined up properly.
Was a cam installed, and did it turn smoothly?

 

[Cartel]

Hey Cartel, I’ve talked to a few Engine builders and they said perfect cam bearing alignment is desirable but the 75% that is open like yours is totally acceptable and okay. There will be plenty of oil pressure and flow. As far as the lifter bores, did you pay to have them honed? If not, they should have at least checked to make sure a lifter slides in and rotates easily in each bore. Otherwise depending on which rings you’ll be running, the bores look good. Hope this helps.

I got hastings 2m263 rings

 

[Cartel]

#1 cam bearing looks bad but will work perfectly.
Check very closely the cam bearing further back with several holes is lined up properly.
Was a cam installed, and did it turn smoothly?

the stock cam did go in freely. the other bearings are dead on. maybe they do that to the front for some reason?

Hey Cartel, I’ve talked to a few Engine builders and they said perfect cam bearing alignment is desirable but the 75% that is open like yours is totally acceptable and okay. There will be plenty of oil pressure and flow. As far as the lifter bores, did you pay to have them honed? If not, they should have at least checked to make sure a lifter slides in and rotates easily in each bore. Otherwise depending on which rings you’ll be running, the bores look good. Hope this helps.

I paid IMO alot of money that should have covered all the bases.
I haven't got a new cam yet I been doing research to make sure I get the right one. The lifter and cam failures I see have me very worried

 

[Big_John]

IMHO, the hole offset won't hurt a thing.

If it bothers you, you can open it up a couple ways, but you need to be careful and chances of things going sideways outweighs any possible gain.

 

[CBODY67]

If the front cam bearing bothers you, it will bother you. Is it bad enough to take back for a fix? Probably not. You'd have to buy another set of cam bearings as that's the way they are usually sold, possibly.

As long as normal pressure gets to that hole, LUBE will happen in sufficient amounts for good durability and such.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[furynut65]

I got hastings 2m263 rings

If you purchased the rings from your machine shop at the same time you had the machine work, they should have matched your final hone to the proper cross- hatch finish. Best thing to do is call and confirm.

 

[furynut65]

the stock can dis go in freely. the other bearings are dead on. maybe they do that to the front for some reason?


I paid IMO alot of money that should have covered all the bases.
I haven't got a new cam yet I been doing research to make sure I get the right one. The lifter and cam failures I see have me very worried

Just my humble opinion, I’m no expert. Everyone says to go roller on the cam. I’m at the same place with my 440 build that you are. I’ve decided to go with an Isky hydraulic flat tappet with Isky lifters. Mild lift. .460 lift.Key Is I believe is seat pressure at break in. Will be using my old single valve springs for break in and take heads off and install the inner spring.It’s worth the extra effort IMO.Also get the timing as close as you can for initial start up to break cam in so it starts right away.

 

[73Coupe]

The lifter bores look fine, if it were my block I'd clean them up with some red scotch-brite and wd-40 to remove residual rust and dirt. Just make sure the lifters move freely in each bore.

 

[Cartel]

If you purchased the rings from your machine shop at the same time you had the machine work, they should have matched your final hone to the proper cross- hatch finish. Best thing to do is call and confirm.

No I couldn't do that as parts here (Canada) cost a fortune and then he adds more (even though at first he said I would get everything at his discounted account price). Like the pistons I paid $600 off summit and he quoted me over $1200. I just cant do it, it drives me mad even contemplating it. This whole engine rebuild has been beating me up financially and companies that cant pack parts worth a spit, I had to return a set of pistons already and even summit didnt do much better, a big box with 2 airbags that were popped and the piston box flying around in it. They seemed ok but I wasnt impressed.

He did see the rings as I brought them for balancing and mentioned the moly top ring.
When I asked questions I kinda got an attitude and the "I've done lots of these" and I felt like I should shut up so I didnt upset him. After I said I was building the motor it was like he had no time for me. It hasnt been a pleasant experience so far, but the kind words and advice I've gotten here has been very welcome and I'm thankful I can double check some of these things here.

I'm not really trying to shame the shop I want to make sure I got all my ducks in a row because I do not want to mess this up. And I want to make sure I got what I spent money for and that its done right.

 

[1970FuryConv]

No I couldn't do that as parts here (Canada) cost a fortune and then he adds more (even though at first he said I would get everything at his discounted account price). Like the pistons I paid $600 off summit and he quoted me over $1200. I just cant do it, it drives me mad even contemplating it. This whole engine rebuild has been beating me up financially and companies that cant pack parts worth a spit, I had to return a set of pistons already and even summit didnt do much better, a big box with 2 airbags that were popped and the piston box flying around in it. They seemed ok but I wasnt impressed.

He did see the rings as I brought them for balancing and mentioned the moly top ring.
When I asked questions I kinda got an attitude and the "I've done lots of these" and I felt like I should shut up so I didnt upset him. After I said I was building the motor it was like he had no time for me. It hasnt been a pleasant experience so far, but the kind words and advice I've gotten here has been very welcome and I'm thankful I can double check some of these things here.

I'm not really trying to shame the shop I want to make sure I got all my ducks in a row because I do not want to mess this up. And I want to make sure I got what I spent money for and that its done right.

I think the #1 cam bearing will give plenty of oil for any street or street/strip cam.

I have done Hughes cams, which require matching Hughes high pressure valve springs installed on heads at time of break-in. Hughes requires those springs be in place or they will not guarantee the cam. I would leave the new springs installed on the heads during break-in.

Regardless of how much you know or don't know, the machine shop should be helpful to a paying customer. They should know and tell you whether they checked the lifter bores. You can find videos on you-tube for checking ring gap or engine assembly.

 

[mr gtx]

you don't want to hone the lifter bores just to hone them. too much clearance will cause low oil pressure at idle. the lifters should be checked to make sure they slide in before honing. they should have cleaned up the oil return slots a lot of rough metal that might break off.