headers for c-body

ApplicationHeader Finish
Part No.
Price

Click number to read Footnote
383-400Raw (Bare Mild Steel)
# TTi 383-178C0
$ 691.00 set
C0
383-400Nickel Chrome Plated
# TTi 383-178C1
$ 712.00 set
17, C1
383-400
Ceramic Coated with a Thermal Barrier
# TTi 383-178C4
$ 866.00 set
17, C4
383-400Polished Ceramic Coated with a Thermal Barrier
# TTi 383-178C5
$ 896.00 set
17, C5
 
Schumacher shorty headers will work on a 383. They will also fit on a 440 but you may need to do a little grinding on the flange (passenger side).
I have a set on a 440 in a 65 Sport Fury.
 
Schumacher shorty headers will work on a 383. They will also fit on a 440 but you may need to do a little grinding on the flange (passenger side).
I have a set on a 440 in a 65 Sport Fury.

No kidding? What do you think of them?
 
The Schumacher headers are the shorty, tri-Y style. They flow better than factory HP manifolds (also a good choice) but not as good as full length ones. I have been using the Schumacher ones on a Tunnel Ram (2-4bbl) in my 65 Fury. I am going to switch to TTI long tube headers when I finish my stroker/blower motor.
If you have the cash, the Schumacher flow pretty good. If not, the HP exhaust manifolds are a good choice. I think Headman still makes a short block hugger style header that (wasn't) too pricey. Any of these are way better than the factory log-style exhaust manifolds.
 
We talk about this a lot here, and every other C body site it seems. Do you "NEED" the headers? HP manifolds wont work for you?
I've given up.
Just let anybody who wants to put on headers, put them on.
We won't be buying their cars when all is said and done.

Welcome 65sporty.
 
What are the most common issues? over heating? fit? just curious your experience.
 
With my first set of headers, my engine ran about 20 degrees cooler. The biggest problem is exhaust leaks. If the flanges are not thick, they will warp (3/8 inch is a minimum). If you get headers, spend the money on good ones.
It's all about letting the engine breathe, big blocks love to breathe.
I like big horse power in big cars, headers help me get there.
 
With my first set of headers, my engine ran about 20 degrees cooler. The biggest problem is exhaust leaks. If the flanges are not thick, they will warp (3/8 inch is a minimum). If you get headers, spend the money on good ones.
It's all about letting the engine breathe, big blocks love to breathe.
I like big horse power in big cars, headers help me get there.

What headers do you have? Do you have a couple of pictures?
 
My first set of headers was a set of Hooker B body headers. The driver side was essentially out of the box but the passenger side was heavily modified. I had 18 inch collectors with exhaust cutouts built in. The biggest headache was the headers were build by a race shop and the passenger side wrapped around the torsion bar. I had to remove the bar to get the header out. I will need to dig to find pictures of these as they are long gone, rust and heat cracks (from age) took their toll. I have pics of the Schumacher headers, I'll post them shortly. They would have fit right out of the box except the passenger side outlet flange rubbed the torsion bar. I ground it down for a better fit but it would have been better if the collector was only an inch or two longer as the pipe itself easily cleared the torsion bar. That is the sore spot on (early) C bodies - passenger side header clearance at the torsion bar. Anyway, I still have those on the car now as I am still running the tunnel ram engine. When I put the supercharged engine in, I will install the TTI headers. Only pic I can have of that is on the engine stand but I do have the headers now.
I actually spoke with the owner of Schumacher headers and he informed me that TTI manufactured his headers for him. Both are very nice headers. What I like about the Schumacher ones is the extra thick flanges that do not warp, I have actually taken them loose and retightened them using the same exhaust gasket. The fit is awesome. The TTI headers also have the same thick flanges and both are heavily constructed. Only reason I am going to the full length header is because the supercharger will need better breathing capability.
 
PPR Australia ordered me a custom ceramic coated set from the states for my 383 in the 66 Polara . Didn't have to undo engine mounts, only briefly adjust the power steering. Not sure who made them but they are fantastic. Some mates warned me about off the shelve headers...I took the word from the crew at and PPR and they were right,,,,maybe they can help with who made them.
Psolara 66
 
I see we deal a lot with big blocks, and that is ok with me :), but I am wondering if block huggers will fit in a small block car? I just bought a 71 Fury III, and have the perfect 360 to drop in it. I like the ability to go fast, so I have a 371 cid 360 with 268/276 .464lift Comp cam, 9.625:1 compression, Weiand Stealth intake, and the heads are mildly ported/ gasket matched with Miloden 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust. It does need headers to make it flow. What works?
 
You went through the trouble of increasing your engines ability to breath on the intake side why undo all your efforts by choking your engine out with some crappy cast iron manifolds. Your best bet would be to go with some tri y style headers. Don't go with anything more than 1 5/8 on the primarys. I'm not quite sure whats available for LA blocks on a c body car. You could try looking at Year One or maybe TTI.
 
:yaayy:
With my first set of headers, my engine ran about 20 degrees cooler. The biggest problem is exhaust leaks. If the flanges are not thick, they will warp (3/8 inch is a minimum). If you get headers, spend the money on good ones.
It's all about letting the engine breathe, big blocks love to breathe.
I like big horse power in big cars, headers help me get there.
x 2.
 
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