Use the factory diagrams in the FSM instead of those. They (the FSM) are more accurate and detailed.
Service Manuals – MyMopar
headlight switch rebuild
- Thread starter Stoffauge
- Start date
Service Manuals – MyMopar
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Happy to be of service here! I suggest you devote your thinking toward rewiring your headlights with dedicated relays, one for high and one for low beam. This will unload those undersized conductors currently powering the headlights ALL THE WAY FROM THE SWITCHES IN THE DASH. You also should REPLACE THE SIDEMARKER AND TAIL LIGHT BULBS WITH LEDs! THIS will DRASTICALLY REDUCE CURRENT DRAW from whichever conductors you need to power them from. The turn signals will work better, though you likely will need to replace the flashers with electronically activated ones instead of thermo-electric.
Regarding the brake lights: I'm going to assume your switch is alright. Check it to be sure.
I also KNOW you're working with poor documentation IF ALL YOU HAVE IS THOSE TWO DIAGRAM PAGES YOU'VE UPLOADED! You NEED the 1971 Plymouth Body Service Manual, Chapter 5 Download the manual here:
https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1971_Plymouth_Body_Service_Manual.zip
THIS gives FAR GREATER DEPTH and BREADTH of data concerning the electrical system in not only your Fury, but Chryslers too! Looking through Chapter 5, I again am glad that I own a 1966, NOT a 1971 or later vehicle. Baroque (sure sounds like BROKE!) design had seized Detroit in the early 1970s, with catastrophic consequences for the industry...
Check out your fuse box layout:
AND NOW for your front wiring, with a little more clarity:
If you don't have this manual, please use the link above!
I don't envy anyone who owns anything made after 1968.
Good morning fellas,
after having dinner with (next to) my car and a beer I took out both of the fuses (one for brakelights, one for sidemarkers/tail) cleaned the rustet out "snaps" and put the fuses back in. --> Sidemarkers and taillights work, boom! Luckily it´s been that damn easy. Almost not worth all the writing here but without an advice I wouldnt have checked it again because I have had 12V. Thank you 100000 times.
Brake lights still "out of order". Really thinking Turn signal switch (although hazards and turns go well) because I bypassed it again from brake light switch to connector in lower driver door and brake lights work well. Do we get this solved too maybe even without buying a new TSS?
Now there are just smaller issue like the light buzzer who weirdly buzzes just sometimes and some other small stuff.
I do have all the FSM as books even and working with these too. Was just easier to upload the other two pics.
I am really happy and glad the works are working well now. On to the next problem !
after having dinner with (next to) my car and a beer I took out both of the fuses (one for brakelights, one for sidemarkers/tail) cleaned the rustet out "snaps" and put the fuses back in. --> Sidemarkers and taillights work, boom! Luckily it´s been that damn easy. Almost not worth all the writing here but without an advice I wouldnt have checked it again because I have had 12V. Thank you 100000 times.
Brake lights still "out of order". Really thinking Turn signal switch (although hazards and turns go well) because I bypassed it again from brake light switch to connector in lower driver door and brake lights work well. Do we get this solved too maybe even without buying a new TSS?
Now there are just smaller issue like the light buzzer who weirdly buzzes just sometimes and some other small stuff.
I do have all the FSM as books even and working with these too. Was just easier to upload the other two pics.
I am really happy and glad the works are working well now. On to the next problem !
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Good morning fellas,
after having dinner with (next to) my car and a beer I took out both of the fuses (one for brakelights, one for sidemarkers/tail) cleaned the rustet out "snaps" and put the fuses back in. --> Sidemarkers and taillights work, boom! Luckily it´s been that damn easy. Almost not worth all the writing here but without an advice I wouldnt have checked it again because I have had 12V. Thank you 100000 times.
I am really happy and glad the works are working well now. On to the next problem !
My PLEASURE! 'Tis KEEN to be CLEAN!
Feels really god that we got to be honest. Gerald (Jerry) you mentioned my TSS is probably fine although if I bypass it the brake lights work. May you please tell me why you said that? My experience with my car is that all the switches and relays worked so far and it´s been always a ground or connection/contact. So a broken TSS might be wrong. But for my understanding if I bypass it and the brake lights work, the TSS is somehow broken because it´s the only big switch that is involved (brake light switch is small and fine ;) )
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I suspect the turn signal switch has a short. It may WELL be in one of the switched legs between the TSS and an actual socket. To test:
Disconnect one side at a time, and test the brake lights. They SHOULD work regardless, BUT. It might be the FLASHER which has shorted. Get a new one, ELECTRONICALLY TIMED, NOT thermally! THAT should also position you to start using LED bulbs for the tail lights. Philips makes GOOD ones now. Avoid any SINO-BRANDED-CRAP w these. Nice thing about LEDs is this: they ARE DIODES, which helps eliminate any backfeeding through them.
Anyway, by keeping your contacts in the fusebox CLEAN, you should get enough current to run stuff. Start planning to put those headlights on relays, and plan to locate those VERY CLOSE to the battery. Use #10 AWG wire for those too. You can get by with #12. but I like PLENTY current capacity, especially for 12V circuits, where CURRENT, not VOLTAGE determines POWER.
Hello fellas....
it´s been a awhile but two weeks ago ROCKAUTO messaged me that my TSS is available again. Ordered it, put it in and voilá brakelights work fine! Glad it really has been the switch (like I thought). While replacing the switch I changed the flashers to electronically ones.
LEDs and rebuilding some wiring will follow
it´s been a awhile but two weeks ago ROCKAUTO messaged me that my TSS is available again. Ordered it, put it in and voilá brakelights work fine! Glad it really has been the switch (like I thought). While replacing the switch I changed the flashers to electronically ones.
LEDs and rebuilding some wiring will follow
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Hello fellas....
it´s been a awhile but two weeks ago ROCKAUTO messaged me that my TSS is available again. Ordered it, put it in and voilá brakelights work fine! Glad it really has been the switch (like I thought). While replacing the switch I changed the flashers to electronically ones.
LEDs and rebuilding some wiring will follow
LIGHT ON BRO! Amen, the electronic flashers do you nothing but GOOD also. Getchya some NEW primary wire, re-run the legs of your tail lights if needed, and you'll be a Shining Example, winking in the distance of how New Tech and Old Mech can merge well to serve folks BETTER THAN EVER.
I rejoice with you in your success, and now need to replace some ali-baba-****-LED with a good Philips Ultinion....
Which electronic flasher did you use? Supposed to cure the "hyper-flash of LED turn signal lamps, without using the wired-in resistors?
Thanks,
CBODY67
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
IDK what the OP uses now, but I use a Novita EL12 which I copped from Rock Auto 4 yrs ago, and it does a dandy job! The principle is VERY simple. Modern electronic-mechanical flashers just use a timer chip, wired suitably for a fixed interval, which pulses the relay. LM555 timers and their ilk have been around as long as our C bodies have, so there's no high tech mystery here.
I see this flasher now sells from ALL the vendors, and works well. CEC makes one too. This **** w hyperflashing LEDs takes WORK to make it happen now.... One must find an old fashioned thermo-electric flasher to start with.
Hey CBODY67..... I ordered 2 of these : PETERSON LIGHTING 554 10-lamp, 12-volt flasher. 21.0 amp rating. 60-120 FPM flash rate at 11 to 15 volts. 1 3/8" tall. Meets FMVSS 108 and SAE J590 & J945 specifications; 2-Prong
Hope that helps. But I figured that I only can use one of these new ones.When I replace both of the old flashers with new ones the turn signals don´t work, just the hazards do. Don´t know why but it´s what I figured...
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