I'd wonder how long it's been since the car was last driven? Batteries tend to lose a bit of power when not used, although less with the newer ones than in the past. End result is that more-than-normal "charge" is happening (a bit brighter lights) than normal, which the main voltage regulator is modulating, normally. The "dim" could actually be the normal level rather than otherwise, posssible. The fully-transistorized main voltage regulator should keep things more constant, voltate-wise, then the OEM points-type unit. Of course, battery terminal connections at the battery posts can hide a thin layer of corrosion in that gap, by observation, which ALSO puts more electrical resistance into that circuit, which can decrease ultimate charging system performance. Part of the dianosis of this issue should probably include a mechanical cleaning of those contact surfaces.
The OTHER voltage regulator, the instrument cluster's "voltaage limiter", located on/near the cluster itself, might also be having some voltage cycles, too. The earlier units were mechanical, with a solid-state version being used from somewhere in the earlier 1980s, iirc. The later ones are a bolt-in replacement, I believe, and are available from several online sources.
In this case, starting with the underhood, main, voltage regulator replacement would be the easiest place to start. Plus the cleaning of the battery cable connections.
Depending upon how long it's been since the car was last run/driven, with normal running, it might take well over an hour's drive-time to get the battery back to close to full-rated charge. No "round the block" sort of thing! This longer drive-time will also alllow ALL of the vehicle's fluids to reach their normal operating temperature and get most, if not all, of accumulated/residual condensate cooked out of them, which is good. For example, once the engine coolant tamp gets to normal, it can take another 10 miles of 45mph+ driving for the engine oil to reach the same temperature in 70 degree F weather. Similar with atf. Cooler temps will lengthen the time for this to happen.
The battery state-of-charge isssues might include the use of "battery tenders" for "rest times" and the definite need of a good. quality, self-regulating portable battery charger, for good measure. Even one of the iPhone-sized jump boxes could be good to have in that arsenal, too!
Several dynamics in your situation, by observation.
Enjoy!
CBODY67