heater box dual-port actuators?

[Stereolab42]

So, I have a 1963 Chrysler 300. The heater switch and box all work except the three vacuum actuators on the box are junk, which explains why the PO had the incoming vacuum source disconnected (they leak). These are dual-port actuators, part 2277091. They don't seem reproduced, and the couple of NOS ones for sale I can't imagine are still any good with 60-year old rubber.

I'm guessing some of the specialized rebuilders like Original Air might have the expertise to rebuild these if I'm willing to wait years and pay through the nose. Otherwise, I wonder if anyone has been able to shoehorn something else in there? There is part 04882286 for a Dodge Ram that seems like it COULD be made to fit with some hackery.

The heater, blower, and temp switches all work even with no vacuum, so I don't really NEED these actuators. From what I can tell they only govern the doors that let you choose between regular, defrost, and "fresh air" action. But I hate having anything not working if I can help it.

 

[Stereolab42]

After staring at more pictures of Dodge Ram actuator 04882286 I'm more confident they can be modified as I want... each of the 1963 actuators has a differently-shaped "arm" that can be cutoff and I hope JB-welded to the arm of 04882286. (If only I knew how to actually weld, sigh.) I ordered a bunch of them and I guess we'll see. I also think the 1963 heater switch itself, part 2290089, is leaky. That part is complete unobtanium but part 3895790 is reproduced and appears almost the same, so I ordered one from Classic Industries. Leaning under the dash it appears all 3 actuators can be accessed without having to yank the entire box... not easily, but doable. Gotta love places that do a "frame-off" restoration for a fortune then decide "**** it, is the future owner ever going to know this is disconnected"?

 

[63 newyorker]

i will follow this threat I want to see how it goes with the heat switch

 

[Stereolab42]

i will follow this threat I want to see how it goes with the heat switch

I gave up... the new heater switch also leaks vacuum, and the Ram actuators I planned on using are also not available (despite being advertised as such on eBay). I also noticed the heater valve on my car had its family jewels lopped off and the internal bits welded to be fully open; the hot/cool Bowden cable has nowhere to connect to. I sort of understand why this was done, since the fully functional valves tend to leak over time, NOS replacements are crazy expensive, and even if you buy NOS ($500) you need to send it off to get rebuilt anyways ($400) because the 60-year old seals surely aren't good. So I hardwired the heater box doors in my preferred locations for maximum heat and called it a day. I have two blower speeds and full heat, I just can't configure where it goes or how much heat (beyond said blower speed).