(Help!) Fluids and maintenance on my 67 Newport!

[TubOfGlue]

Hey! To preface, I’m new to this forum and I’ve never touched a carbureted car before. (Though I’ve worked on newer cars)

I’ve inherited a 46k mile 67 Newport. Got it running last night with a new battery and some starter fluid, but I’d like to get it roadworthy.

What gas can I run?
What oil should I run?
How can I check brake fluid?
Should the reservoir look like that?(pic attached)
What are some tips/tricks/things I should look out for?

Thanks a ton!

 

[CBODY67]

Correction: 1968 Newport, not 1967, as '67s did not have side marker lights.

Gas? Start with 91+ Pump Octane and work downward in octane numbers until "clatter" happens on acceleration. Might need to slow the base timing down a few degrees, too, if going lower than 91.

Oil? Any modern oil of 10W-30 or up to 20W-50. You can opt for Valvoline VR-1 oil for its higher zddp levels, but for a stock 2bbl motor (and its lower lift camshaft) this might not be fully needed with the well-broken-in cam in it. AMsoil Hot Rod or other similar oils can work too. Better to get a good oil to start with rather than using expensive additives to get to the same place.

Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Now sold as "Multi-Make" in many brands, but with notations of being designed for older GM vehicles on the container.

Any Dot 3 brake fluid. Get a strong screwdriver and move the "bail" on top of the master cyl reservoir to remove the top and check the fluid. It just rotates around so no need to completely remove the retainer completely.

Use ONLY power steering fluid in that system. NO Dexron III automatic trans fluid, period!!! Valvoline MaxLife has some good power steering fluid that is rated for Chrysler/GM cars. Or look for some which crosses with the old GM 1050017 power steering fluid in quarts. NOT using atf ensures the longevity and integrity of the current system and minimizes leaks/seeps.

"Green" anti-freeze/coolant. Usually, with the radiator drained and flushed with a water hose, the radiator should take 2 gallons of pure coolant, sometimes closer to 9 qts, to end up with the needed -20 degrees F protection. Do NOT use the 50-50 premix!

Tire pressures? 32 frt/30 rr. Cold, not driven.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[TubOfGlue]

Correction: 1968 Newport, not 1967, as '67s did not have side marker lights.

Gas? Start with 91+ Pump Octane and work downward in octane numbers until "clatter" happens on acceleration. Might need to slow the base timing down a few degrees, too, if going lower than 91.

Oil? Any modern oil of 10W-30 or up to 20W-50. You can opt for Valvoline VR-1 oil for its higher zddp levels, but for a stock 2bbl motor (and its lower lift camshaft) this might not be fully needed with the well-broken-in cam in it. AMsoil Hot Rod or other similar oils can work too. Better to get a good oil to start with rather than using expensive additives to get to the same place.

Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Now sold as "Multi-Make" in many brands, but with notations of being designed for older GM vehicles on the container.

Any Dot 3 brake fluid. Get a strong screwdriver and move the "bail" on top of the master cyl reservoir to remove the top and check the fluid. It just rotates around so no need to completely remove the retainer completely.

Use ONLY power steering fluid in that system. NO Dexron III automatic trans fluid, period!!! Valvoline MaxLife has some good power steering fluid that is rated for Chrysler/GM cars. Or look for some which crosses with the old GM 1050017 power steering fluid in quarts. NOT using atf ensures the longevity and integrity of the current system and minimizes leaks/seeps.

"Green" anti-freeze/coolant. Usually, with the radiator drained and flushed with a water hose, the radiator should take 2 gallons of pure coolant, sometimes closer to 9 qts, to end up with the needed -20 degrees F protection. Do NOT use the 50-50 premix!

Tire pressures? 32 frt/30 rr. Cold, not driven.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Thanks for the info! The only coolant bottles in the garage are 50/50 premix so I assume that’s what it has in it. Why shouldn’t it be used and can I just drain, flush, and replace it with green?

 

[bronze turbine]

Yeah, what's up with not using the 50/50 premix? I thought it was the same as the regular antifreeze except, of course, "premixed".
This is news to me. My mechanic used some kind of yellow antifreeze in my '68 300. I don't know what all the different colors mean.
By the way that '68 Newport looks like it's in good shape, and it looks like it might have the front disc brakes. Good luck with it.

 

[BAD69FURY]

Hey! To preface, I’m new to this forum and I’ve never touched a carbureted car before. (Though I’ve worked on newer cars)

I’ve inherited a 46k mile 67 Newport. Got it running last night with a new battery and some starter fluid, but I’d like to get it roadworthy.

What gas can I run?
What oil should I run?
How can I check brake fluid?
Should the reservoir look like that?(pic attached)
What are some tips/tricks/things I should look out for?

Thanks a ton!

View attachment 663493

View attachment 663494

In addition to CBODY67'S comments, get yourself a factory service manuel. you can download a free one here:
Service Manuals – MyMopar

 

[Big_John]

What gas can I run?

If you can, try to find non-ethanol gas. While you can use the ethanol laced gas, the rubber hoses and the carb gaskets really fare better without the excess ethanol. Non-Ethanol gas can be found around lakes for power boats.

What oil should I run?

You need to run an oil with a higher zinc content. Ask 10 guys and you'll get 10 preferences. Personally, my weapon of choice is the Brad Penn, now also known as Penngrade 10W-40 with a Wix or NAPA Gold oil filter.

How can I check brake fluid?
Should the reservoir look like that?(pic attached)

Check the brake fluid by removing the top of the master cylinder. Just push the clip over with a screwdriver and remove the top.

Green antifreeze. I've never heard of any issue with the 50/50 other than it being cheaper to buy the non-mixed. @CBODY67 might have some insight on this, so I'll wait to see what he has to say about that.

 

[TubOfGlue]

Yeah, what's up with not using the 50/50 premix? I thought it was the same as the regular antifreeze except, of course, "premixed".
This is news to me. My mechanic used some kind of yellow antifreeze in my '68 300. I don't know what all the different colors mean.
By the way that '68 Newport looks like it's in good shape, and it looks like it might have the front disc brakes. Good luck with it.

Thank you! It was kept extremely well for all 20 years of our family’s ownership!

 

[TubOfGlue]

In addition to CBODY67'S comments, get yourself a factory service manuel. you can download a free one here:
Service Manuals – MyMopar

Thank you!

 

[TubOfGlue]

If you can, try to find non-ethanol gas. While you can use the ethanol laced gas, the rubber hoses and the carb gaskets really fare better without the excess ethanol. Non-Ethanol gas can be found around lakes for power boats.

You need to run an oil with a higher zinc content. Ask 10 guys and you'll get 10 preferences. Personally, my weapon of choice is the Brad Penn, now also known as Penngrade 10W-40 with a Wix or NAPA Gold oil filter.

Check the brake fluid by removing the top of the master cylinder. Just push the clip over with a screwdriver and remove the top.

View attachment 663496

Green antifreeze. I've never heard of any issue with the 50/50 other than it being cheaper to buy the non-mixed. @CBODY67 might have some insight on this, so I'll wait to see what he has to say about that.

Thanks a lot! I’ll keep the oil rec in mind.

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks for the info! The only coolant bottles in the garage are 50/50 premix so I assume that’s what it has in it. Why shouldn’t it be used and can I just drain, flush, and replace it with green?

The "issue" is that you're diluting that 50-50 with what's in the engine block. Look at the math. If the radiator holds 1/2 of the total system volume, filling the radiator after a complete clear water flush of the system and heater core, means that clear water is everywhere except the radiator. Putting 8 quarts of coolant in the 26" factory a/c radiator results in a 50-50 mix and protection down to -20 degrees F. Squeezing an extra quart (for a total of 9) puts things down to -34 degrees F.

I suspect that whatever coolant that might be in the engine has aged out of things, it needs a full clear water flush and new coolant. At this point, putting new 50-50 premix in it just dilutes that 50-50 premix ratio down too far, like to 25-75 coolant/water. 50-50 might be fine IF the block is drained and everything is refilled from "dry".

Be aware that sometimes fresh coolant can "find leaks", so watch for those in the heater core and radiator tanks. What ages-out of the coolant additive package is the additive that keeps ethylene glycol from attaching the solder in the joints of the heater core and radiator tanks. Ensuring that the coolant and solder "play nice". Don't put any "extended life" coolant in there (i.e., GM Dexcool or the yellow coolant).

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

The "issue" is that you're diluting that 50-50 with what's in the engine block. Look at the math. If the radiator holds 1/2 of the total system volume, filling the radiator after a complete clear water flush of the system and heater core, means that clear water is everywhere except the radiator. Putting 8 quarts of coolant in the 26" factory a/c radiator results in a 50-50 mix and protection down to -20 degrees F. Squeezing an extra quart (for a total of 9) puts things down to -34 degrees F.

I suspect that whatever coolant that might be in the engine has aged out of things, it needs a full clear water flush and new coolant. At this point, putting new 50-50 premix in it just dilutes that 50-50 premix ratio down too far, like to 25-75 coolant/water. 50-50 might be fine IF the block is drained and everything is refilled from "dry".

Be aware that sometimes fresh coolant can "find leaks", so watch for those in the heater core and radiator tanks. What ages-out of the coolant additive package is the additive that keeps ethylene glycol from attaching the solder in the joints of the heater core and radiator tanks. Ensuring that the coolant and solder "play nice". Don't put any "extended life" coolant in there (i.e., GM Dexcool or the yellow coolant).

Enjoy!
CBODY67

OK, so the issue isn't the antifreeze, it's the mix ratio if there is plain water in the block. That makes sense.

I use the non-mixed antifreeze because it's more economical.

And yea, you don't want the Dexcool and the like in an old car.

 

[TubOfGlue]

The "issue" is that you're diluting that 50-50 with what's in the engine block. Look at the math. If the radiator holds 1/2 of the total system volume, filling the radiator after a complete clear water flush of the system and heater core, means that clear water is everywhere except the radiator. Putting 8 quarts of coolant in the 26" factory a/c radiator results in a 50-50 mix and protection down to -20 degrees F. Squeezing an extra quart (for a total of 9) puts things down to -34 degrees F.

I suspect that whatever coolant that might be in the engine has aged out of things, it needs a full clear water flush and new coolant. At this point, putting new 50-50 premix in it just dilutes that 50-50 premix ratio down too far, like to 25-75 coolant/water. 50-50 might be fine IF the block is drained and everything is refilled from "dry".

Be aware that sometimes fresh coolant can "find leaks", so watch for those in the heater core and radiator tanks. What ages-out of the coolant additive package is the additive that keeps ethylene glycol from attaching the solder in the joints of the heater core and radiator tanks. Ensuring that the coolant and solder "play nice". Don't put any "extended life" coolant in there (i.e., GM Dexcool or the yellow coolant).

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Got it! I’ll avoid those brands and do a proper flush immediately. Thanks a ton!

 

[Retired auto tech]

Please flush the brake system completely with new DOT 3 fluid. The old fluid will have lost all its anti rust and anti corrosion components plus be heavily contaminated with water. The ethers in brake fluid will absorb water right through the rubber hoses and seals over time ( the term is hydroscopic ). This can be checked with test strips but at this age it's an automatic given. Under hard stopping the fluid will boil and bye bye brakes when you need them most. The rule of thumb for brake fluid is five years so judge yourself accordingly.

 

[Jakter]

I don't return a vehicle to the road without putting new brake lines, brake hoses, and rebuild/ replace master cylinder, brake cylinders new brake shoes and springs and proper new brake fluid and clean inspect/replace wheel bearings and seals.

I value safety, brakes,steering suspension, before it will see the street.

 

[TubOfGlue]

I don't return a vehicle to the road without putting new brake lines, brake hoses, and rebuild/ replace master cylinder, brake cylinders new brake shoes and springs and proper new brake fluid and clean inspect/replace wheel bearings and seals.

I value safety, brakes,steering suspension, before it will see the street.

Agreed! A few people mentioned looking over the brakes/brake fluids so I’m definitely going to refresh/replace.