Helping hands

[DirkRhodie]

Good day all, yes it's been sometime since I posted due to health and a few other issues , however going forward I require help with my “67" 318 la engine upgrade.
I've replaced the mains, big ends, piston wrist pin bushes and obtained some KB 167 0.030 oversize pistons. Now I'm looking for a camshaft, cast four barrel carb and intake to fit,....any suggestions?

Rockauto have Melling camshafts and hydraulic lifters as a set in either standard or what they call a stage one cam.
What is the general feeling about Melling due to the many issues that are apparently doing the rounds with camshafts.

There prices are affordable but what about the quality?
Thanks in advance for feedback and any assistance would greatly appreciated

 

[ayilar]

@71Polara383 @david hill @cbarge

 

[CBODY67]

Melling, as a company, has been around for ages. BTAIM There are also cams sold by Mopar Perf that are re=-packaged COMP Cams and such, from their specs, so it can really be a crapshoot as to a good brand these days. As to the Mellings-brand cams, they usually somewhat mimic the stock specs, but sound different. When you look at the listings in RockAuto, when you punch the "INFO" button and get to the next page that comes up. in the upper lh corner of the page is the company's logo. Click on THAT to get to the company's full catalog. Then look for the specs for the particular cam and such.

Melling has been pretty much the go-to company for replacement oil pumps for the better part of a century. We didn't know they built other parts until more recently, to me.

It is TERRIBLY easy to overcam an engine in the 5.0L general range, by observation. Heading for something in the spec range of a stock LA340 engine, or a normal LA360 engine can be the ranges to look within, to me. Otherwise, the stock rear axle ratio in the car can become an issue as to lower-rpm performance and such.

One thing you might consider is a reasonably stock cam, but then use 1.6 ratio rocker arms. Not specifically to get more lift and such, but to get the valves open quicker to help port flow happen sooner (on the intake side) for better cyl filling. Some might claim that the best way to do that is with the valve lobes themselves (a new cam), which is true, BUT finding THAT cam lobe can be the issue. FWIW

I'm suspecting a true dual exhaust (even with the stock exh manifolds) in a part of the plan, too?

To me, a KEY part of getting the cam to live is to liberally coat all of the lobes with the black moly cam lube paste. PLUS the back and teeth of the cam sprocket on a new double-roller timing chain set. Sig Erson cams also used to recommend pouring TWO pint cans of the (thick version, similar to the old STP) old GM Engine Oil supplement over the cam lobes before putting the intake manifold back into place. When I changed the cam in one of my cars, I did both the moly paste and the EOS cans. THEN, the guaranteed initial start-up and run at 2000rpms for 30 minutes. After about 15 minutes, varying the rpm up and down to sling oil to different places, for good measure. After the 30 minutes, then to base idle and a rough base ign timing check/adjust. I then left the moly-ized oil in the motor for about 3000miles, for good measure.

Others might not use quite the amount of lube supplements that I did, but I would rather be "too much" than not, in that respect. Just me.

Enjoy the project!
CBODY67

 

[DirkRhodie]

Melling, as a company, has been around for ages. BTAIM There are also cams sold by Mopar Perf that are re=-packaged COMP Cams and such, from their specs, so it can really be a crapshoot as to a good brand these days. As to the Mellings-brand cams, they usually somewhat mimic the stock specs, but sound different. When you look at the listings in RockAuto, when you punch the "INFO" button and get to the next page that comes up. in the upper lh corner of the page is the company's logo. Click on THAT to get to the company's full catalog. Then look for the specs for the particular cam and such.

Melling has been pretty much the go-to company for replacement oil pumps for the better part of a century. We didn't know they built other parts until more recently, to me.

It is TERRIBLY easy to overcam an engine in the 5.0L general range, by observation. Heading for something in the spec range of a stock LA340 engine, or a normal LA360 engine can be the ranges to look within, to me. Otherwise, the stock rear axle ratio in the car can become an issue as to lower-rpm performance and such.

One thing you might consider is a reasonably stock cam, but then use 1.6 ratio rocker arms. Not specifically to get more lift and such, but to get the valves open quicker to help port flow happen sooner (on the intake side) for better cyl filling. Some might claim that the best way to do that is with the valve lobes themselves (a new cam), which is true, BUT finding THAT cam lobe can be the issue. FWIW

I'm suspecting a true dual exhaust (even with the stock exh manifolds) in a part of the plan, too?

To me, a KEY part of getting the cam to live is to liberally coat all of the lobes with the black moly cam lube paste. PLUS the back and teeth of the cam sprocket on a new double-roller timing chain set. Sig Erson cams also used to recommend pouring TWO pint cans of the (thick version, similar to the old STP) old GM Engine Oil supplement over the cam lobes before putting the intake manifold back into place. When I changed the cam in one of my cars, I did both the moly paste and the EOS cans. THEN, the guaranteed initial start-up and run at 2000rpms for 30 minutes. After about 15 minutes, varying the rpm up and down to sling oil to different places, for good measure. After the 30 minutes, then to base idle and a rough base ign timing check/adjust. I then left the moly-ized oil in the motor for about 3000miles, for good measure.

Others might not use quite the amount of lube supplements that I did, but I would rather be "too much" than not, in that respect. Just me.

Enjoy the project!
CBODY67

Thanks for your reply I will certainly look into all you mentioned. I am in need of a new cam as the existing ones lifters are worn but that's with 58 years under the belt.....and based on that I would assume the camshaft is also worn beyond service life.
Saying that could it be reground and just replacement lifters installed?

 

[CBODY67]

When a cam is reground, the part of the lobe which "does not lift" is reduced a bit to a smaller basecircle diameter. In doing so, the lobe can still have the same lift dimension as before, but with the reduced base circle, the lift becomes effectually higher by comparison.

A reground cam can suffer the same fate as a new cam can, if break-in does not go as desired AND the original OEM-level surface treatment is not applied well. No real advantage other than cost, to me.

Back in the middle 1950s, hugely well before new 0ff-the-shelf cams were around, some places would regrind cams. With the smaller base circle, more lift was achieved from a stock cam. It didn't cost a lot, either, especially when it might take many weeks for shipping to happen back then. There were also some regrinders that did better jobs than others, too.

Back then, too, a hot rod's engine was the only thing in the engine bay. With a generator hanging off to one side. No power steering, no air conditioning compressor, or anything else of weight to get in the way of swapping a cam one night after work. Then driving the car to work the next morning, or fine-tuning it on the following Saturday morning after a Friday night engine session. Younger times, back then! Much was learned by trial and error, it seemed. Which then got down to what brands of oil to use for best results, etc. Or at least what had worked well for many.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[DirkRhodie]

Thank you for your message much appreciated.