For Sale I “may” be going to look at the '69 300 at Greensboro auction (more advice?)

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sauterd

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Hi all,



I “may” be going to look at the 300 in Greensboro, though probably can’t afford its price. I’d appreciate any more advice you can give me on things to look for if I go. You’ve already sent some good advice in previous threads, but anything else is appreciated. My big thing is rust/past rust/repair, etc. And particularly frame rails that have been repaired (guess I’m obsessed with those from my previous purchase, which was sight unseen.) I assume the auction people won’t let me bang on them with a hammer or screwdriver, so any other ideas would be great. Also front suspension too, as the C bodies seem to be different than A and B bodies. How do you guys normally access frame rails? Obviously, it’s best to have solid ones with no rust at all or only surface rust, but how common is it to find rusty and/or repaired rails, and is it a huge deal to most buyers? Sorry for all the questions. If you can offer any advice, it would be much appreciated. Thanks again for all of your great information so far.



Dale
 
I still need to look at these rails on my current car
rail.jpg
closer, but am expecting the worst....
 
Tough to tell from that photo but I was referring to an in general not that specific photo
 
look at the trunk drop downs. lip, and above/behind the lip on the rear wheel arches. crimp of the door skins around bottom insides of the doors. bottoms of the front fender braces inside the door jambs. bottoms of sub frames should be basically flat, square. if they're stuffed in from jacking they're weak. areas near chrome trim on sides of car. trim wears through paint. surfaces rust from behind trim. i could fill this whole page. the car in your picture looks familiar. from the hartford area?
 
just read through all your past threads. yep, same car. i thought about it. would have been easier to purchase that one than fix mine. lack of a/c killed it. too bad that you don't have mechanical skills. your car looks solid enough and the mechanical repairs would be easy. rear window glass is a kind of a deal breaker though. was told by an old hand that the window curtain is supposed to be unzipped before putting the top down. i don't (too lazy), but am very very cautious those last couple of inches. tough decision on that greensboro car. might be better to just keep your powder dry. SG
 
Hey Dale, I got the green light here so I can accompany you on the trip, will give you a call tomorrow to organize time frame etc.
 
look at the trunk drop downs. lip, and above/behind the lip on the rear wheel arches. crimp of the door skins around bottom insides of the doors. bottoms of the front fender braces inside the door jambs. bottoms of sub frames should be basically flat, square. if they're stuffed in from jacking they're weak. areas near chrome trim on sides of car. trim wears through paint. surfaces rust from behind trim. i could fill this whole page. the car in your picture looks familiar. from the hartford area?
thanks, yes, I believe it was from there, I bought sight unseen (stupid me)
 
From Greenville to Greensboro, doesn't Sound too far away. ;)
 
Manual A/C (Good) or AutoTemp A/C (Evil).
Tha manual A/C can easily be identified because the controls have a Fan Speed switch.
 
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