I Just Bought a 1972 Fury Wagon and I am thrilled

[FURYGT]

The air pump would be a California mandated pollution device.

On the tailgate only opening one way I recall that happening on my '72 and I think it was because a short spring (Maybe 3" long and the diameter that would fit a pen inside) in the latching mechanism broke due to rust. Get a parts book or a parts book on CD and look at the complex inner mechanism that operates the 2-way tailgate.

 

[marko]

you can't put the tailgate down unless the rear window is also down but you can open it like a door with the window up

 

[LeBaron1973]

Probably emissions related, and as someone commented about the Lincoln continental mk v, as the engine/emissions system were designed to work together, removing the emissions equipment doesn't suddenly produce extra horsepower.

Dave A Lux and other mechanically minded members can explain further. I suggest leaving things as manufactured and making them work as best as possible and being happy with that- want horsepower, get a modern car. The other factor is vehicle mass - these vehicles weighed from 4315 to 4395 pounds, they were no lightweights.

 

[MBar]

Probably emissions related, and as someone commented about the Lincoln continental mk v, as the engine/emissions system were designed to work together, removing the emissions equipment doesn't suddenly produce extra horsepower.

Dave A Lux and other mechanically minded members can explain further. I suggest leaving things as manufactured and making them work as best as possible and being happy with that- want horsepower, get a modern car. The other factor is vehicle mass - these vehicles weighed from 4315 to 4395 pounds, they were no lightweights.

Great point. Unless I invest major bucks in something wild under the hood I suppose I can appreciate the concept of keeping it as built. Looking at it a certain way, it adds a bit of interest to the mechanicals ...emissions equipment is part of the history of these cars.

 

[MBar]

FENDER TAG FUN!!

It says E63 is 335HP 4bbl 383
But it also shows M2D is 190HP 2bbl 400

Also, my wagon has no stripes and I am pretty sure I've got original paint...
...and I don't see any bumper guards either...
...and the rear A/C must be one of the unknowns..

So what is the deal?

Below is the MyMopar Decoder result.. Am I doing this correctly?

PH46:
Plymouth Fury
High
9 Passenger Wagon

M2D: 400 190HP(net) 1-2BBL 8 CYL
1972
Belvidere, IL, USA

288392: Sequence number

E63: 383 cid 4 barrel V8 H.P. 335hp
D34: Light Duty Automatic Transmission
HB1: Powder Blue Exterior Color
C2B8: Trim - Charger, Vinyl Bench Seat, Unknown Color
CB7: Midnight Blue Poly Int. Door Frames
516: Build Date: May 16
142718: Order number

HB1: Powder Blue Top Color
U: USA Specifications
G11: Tinted Glass (all)
G31: OS RH Manual Standard Mirror
H52: Unknown
L21: Unknown

M15: Unknown
M84: Tail Step Sill Plate
M85: Front & Rear Bumper Guards
M91: Luggage Rack
M95: Unknown
N23: Electronic Ignition System

N95: Emissions Control
P44: Power Lock Tailgate
R35: AM/FM Stereo Radio (10 Watts)
V5B: Body Side Stripes, Light Blue
Y14: Sold Car

26: 26in Radiator
END: End of Sales Codes

 

[LeBaron1973]

Am looking at the Nick's garage listing and here's
Some more info for you.

At least the H52 is correct, the others "may" mean something different on your wagon as the same codes meant different things at different times.


H52 is dual air conditioning
L21 is cargo lamp
M15 is upper door frame moulding
M95 is assist handles
According to an article on max wedge.com the M2D = M engine type 2 = year in this case 1972 D = factory where engine was made.

Hope this helps you.

 

[TxDon]

Nice car.

 

[MBar]

Am looking at the Nick's garage listing and here's
Some more info for you.

At least the H52 is correct, the others "may" mean something different on your wagon as the same codes meant different things at different times.


H52 is dual air conditioning
L21 is cargo lamp
M15 is upper door frame moulding
M95 is assist handles
According to an article on max wedge.com the M2D = M engine type 2 = year in this case 1972 D = factory where engine was made.

Hope this helps you.

Thanks man!!
All the tires are different sizes... 225/75R15 on a couple
235/75R15 on one
275/75 R15 on another
One of the 225 has a leak and used tires are 100 for a decent set of 4 balanced and installed.
I'm at the mercy of what's in stock but what is the best size?

 

[FURYGT]

235/75R15

 

[Dobalovr]

The air pump and aspirator valve run into the back of each head on these smog engines. Annoying but can be a bit tricky to remove as you will need to block off the port on the back of each head. another way to do it is to cut the tubes close to the head (2"-3") and hammer weld the tube closed and bolt back up to the head. I have done this on several smog motors however if you are looking for big MPG gains this will not make much difference other than the engine not driving the pump. Others here will explain the reason for the air pump emission control I am sure as I never really read up on it....I just tore it off lol

 

[LeBaron1973]

Thanks man!!
All the tires are different sizes... 225/75R15 on a couple
235/75R15 on one
275/75 R15 on another
One of the 225 has a leak and used tires are 100 for a decent set of 4 balanced and installed.
I'm at the mercy of what's in stock but what is the best size?

 

[MBar]

Am looking at the Nick's garage listing and here's
Some more info for you.

At least the H52 is correct, the others "may" mean something different on your wagon as the same codes meant different things at different times.


H52 is dual air conditioning
L21 is cargo lamp
M15 is upper door frame moulding
M95 is assist handles
According to an article on max wedge.com the M2D = M engine type 2 = year in this case 1972 D = factory where engine was made.

Hope this helps you.

yes it helps thank you. I hadn't noticed the bumper guards...I was expecting something horrid but they are actually well blended with the bumper...the rear guards seem to be built into the steps?

So, the E63 (383 4bbl) doesn't mean I have one? I'm pretty sure I have the 400 as the air cleaner says so but just curious.

 

[MBar]

UPDATE:
Yesterday was my first day of playing with the wagon... took the spare from my 4dr for now so tire issue can wait.
I am totally blessed to have made it 200 miles home. In addition to the tire leak (I think I picked that up closer to home), there was a PS leak. I do recall the pump being super noisy on the drive but the steering was ok so I thought perhaps I had a bad pump. Yesterday when I went to fill the reservoir, it all leaked out from the valve body on the gearbox right away.
I've stayed friendly with the seller. I thought it was odd that he sang the praises of road-worthy-ness but when I got in it to drive home he suggested I have her towed more than once. I did check the tires for cracks or separation and they looked fine to me so I went for it. When I spoke with him yesterday to ask whether I should replace all of the tires, he told me those were the same ones it sat on for years. Yikes!! and....the motor oil had not been changed either!! Nevertheless, she cruised home effortless at 70 mph.

So.... I will change the tires asap.. budget dictates used ones and around here I can get them for 30 each balanced and installed out-the-door.

Changed the oil and filter (the filter was on there real tight and was a PITA to get off). Dropped some oil and a quart of Rislone in it and now after a few miles she purrs. This 400 v8 has a different character than my 383 or 360 and it idles low and steady. Now that I am used to it, it seems pretty solid. Best part is the sticky lifter noise is gone. yay!

The PS leak was next: Fortunately, I have experience from my 4dr in dealing with the gearbox. I had ordered the o-ring kit (6 bucks). Rather than pull the entire valve body (thus requiring an adjustment that I can't get corect on my 4dr) I was very careful and determined it was coming from the part that the low-pressure hose is connected to. So I only replaced the 2 o-rings there and ....voila!! fixed!! I was quite proud of myself as I feel I am benefiting from painful learning curves.

The wagon now drives pretty nice. It tracks straight, the brakes work good and there are not a lot of creaks which would have driven me nuts.
ITEMS I NEED TO ADDRESS:
Brake lights don't work
Tailgate doesn't drop down (only swings open)
Outside Tailgate handle doesn't work.
Driver door panel is nasty
Driver window needs a lot of help and a prayer to go up
Heater is by-passed
Horn doesn't work
Have not even tried the A/C

I'm also going to:
Replace every bit of fuel and vacuum hose
Flush the coolant and probably replace the hoses too
Flush the brake fluid and change the rubber lines
Get the interior lights working (new headliner less than great where the lights are concerned...the front one is hanging by the fabric and neither light works)

As I said, the body is perfect. I got a chance to really go over it and this thing doesn't even have a dent or scratch and is an absolute zero on rust. Every bit of trim is perfect. I called around and the Maaco in South-Central LA will spray it for 400.00 yes, I know that's not the greatest paint but I will prep some of it and it will be better than the paint on it now, mostly the hood and roof are toasted. Not sure I have the budget for paint but if I do it then for sure I will keep the original color.

It is true what the seller told me: people love this thing and I've gotten lots of attention already. I am not one to show off or flaunt things but I am happy that people respond and that I get to show what American Steel is.

And finally: I want to document my vehicle's journey here and I suppose I will just keep adding to this thread unless there is a better way, which I will be happy to hear suggestions about that.

I blame this forum for my immersion and appreciation for C-Bodies. I started out with one and now there are three. I have found out there are some members within a hundred miles so that's good. But the help and inspiration I've gotten here is priceless and I feel part of a community. Hopefully over time I will contribute more than I benefit.
THANKS GUYS!!!

 

[marko]

ITEMS I NEED TO ADDRESS:
Tailgate doesn't drop down (only swings open)

does it not drop down when you put the window down and use the inside lever ?

 

[MBar]

does it not drop down when you put the window down and use the inside lever ?

View attachment 266003

I haven't had a chance to really look at it yet. I see the label on the inside lever that says gate/door but it works only to swing open. The external handle doesn't work either. The window motor works but slowly and a bit of mechanical noisy that doesn't sound great. I probably won't do anything to her for a few days as I've got to keep the income in focus....but if I win the lottery...... sigh...

 

[MBar]

Plastic interior pieces in the rear, including the spare tire cover are brittle as heck and already have a couple of holes... does anyone make or sell those? I'm thinking I might have to learn a bit of fiberglasing or have that done...

 

[FURYGT]

I haven't had a chance to really look at it yet. I see the label on the inside lever that says gate/door but it works only to swing open. The external handle doesn't work either. The window motor works but slowly and a bit of mechanical noisy that doesn't sound great. I probably won't do anything to her for a few days as I've got to keep the income in focus....but if I win the lottery...... sigh...

As noted earlier, you need to pull the interior panel off the tailgate and look inside for a missing spring or something else that is broken. On the slow rear window, that is typical. You are better off lowering and raising the tailgate window with the car running. The grease on the tracks can harden over time so you may need to remove the old grease and an put some new lithium grease on the tracks and other moving parts.

 

[LeBaron1973]

yes it helps thank you. I hadn't noticed the bumper guards...I was expecting something horrid but they are actually well blended with the bumper...the rear guards seem to be built into the steps? They probably were.

So, the E63 (383 4bbl) doesn't mean I have one? I'm pretty sure I have the 400 as the air cleaner says so but just curious.

The E63 suggests it's the 383, but looking up Plymouth Fury for the year your wagon was built, numerous engine options were available. The forum experts should be able to advise you how to tell what you have. Possibly the air cleaner was replaced with the one you have??? Anything could have happened during the last 47 years.

 

[LeBaron1973]

The air pump and aspirator valve run into the back of each head on these smog engines. Annoying but can be a bit tricky to remove as you will need to block off the port on the back of each head. another way to do it is to cut the tubes close to the head (2"-3") and hammer weld the tube closed and bolt back up to the head. I have done this on several smog motors however if you are looking for big MPG gains this will not make much difference other than the engine not driving the pump. Others here will explain the reason for the air pump emission control I am sure as I never really read up on it....I just tore it off lol

According to www.what-when-how.com/automobile/air-injection-system-automobile/
The concept was that the injection of air into the exhaust manifolds assisted the combustion of unburnt exhaust gases, thus lowering the HC and CO (Hydrocarbons and Carbon Monoxide) emitted. Regardless of what we feel and know about it today, it was likely a good option for those days.

 

[MBar]

According to www.what-when-how.com/automobile/air-injection-system-automobile/
The concept was that the injection of air into the exhaust manifolds assisted the combustion of unburnt exhaust gases, thus lowering the HC and CO (Hydrocarbons and Carbon Monoxide) emitted. Regardless of what we feel and know about it today, it was likely a good option for those days.

Very interesting reading and quite timely..thank you