If you want something done right.... (carburetor question)

[Daniel Romero]

...Or just done, in this case, you’ve got to do it yourself.

SO...

As long as I’ve had my Fury, it’s been reliable - save for one thing, my carburetor.

I’m no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but I can do basic stuff. Carburetor tuning is not one of those things but I cannot find anyone that is willing to work on my carburetor, professionally or otherwise. So, I’m going to have to teach myself. Problem is, searching online tells me there should be some tag on the carb that tells me what model it is. I don’t see a tag so I’m assuming it broke off. I just need to know what model I have so I can start searching for and watch videos specifically for my model. I’ve seen videos of other carburetors and it’s just not making sense. I figure if I’m looking at the exact same thing that leaves less at chance for me to mess up.
It’s a 2-barrel Holley for a 1973 Fury III.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

@Dana can help.

 

[Big_John]

@Dana can help.

^This^

If you'd like to have it done..

https://www.carburetorrestorationyoungstownoh.com/

Just had my carb for my Barracuda restored/rebuilt by him. This is the guy to do it for you.

 

[Xenon]

.but I cannot find anyone that is willing to work on my carburetor, professionally or otherwise.

One of the benefits of being on this forum is the resources available ...
Now,, if you look to the right side of your screen you will see some adverts...
The very top one is for Woodruff Carburetor Specialties ....
Several of us have had our carburetor done by @Dana at Woodruff..
So,, I am pretty damn sure Dana would be willing,, if YOU ask,, if YOU take the initiative
to research these forum threads or read the adverts to the right....


.

 

[413]

Factory service manual! Everybody needs one!

From the pro mechanic to the newbie. All the specs and photos you will get. Forget the chitons and Haynes manuals, waste of time.

From what you posted you need to send it to a pro. So woodruff it is.

 

[Daniel Romero]

One of the benefits of being on this forum is the resources available ...
Now,, if you look to the right side of your screen you will see some adverts...
The very top one is for Woodruff Carburetor Specialties ....
Several of us have had our carburetor done by @Dana at Woodruff..
So,, I am pretty damn sure Dana would be willing,, if YOU ask,, if YOU take the initiative
to research these forum threads or read the adverts to the right....


.

I had to search for the ads/resource you were referring to. There’s absolutely nothing to the right of the forum. I don’t know if this is just an iPhone thing but the whole stack of the sponsored ads are all the way at the very bottom of the page. I’ve literally never seen those until you mentioned that. Not trying to excuse myself nor do I feel the need to; just stating my POV from my phone. Who normally looks that far down past what they actually came here to read?

 

[CBODY67]

Head over to www.mymopar.com Library/Tools/Resources and look for a service manual. If nothing there, then look in their menu for "Chrysler MasterTech" videos. Then in that list, there should be a video on the "New for 1973" service features and such. Many are more general than specific, but could well verify things in your situation.

From my knowledge, your carburetor could well be a Holley 2245 2bbl. Very similar to the prior Holley 2210 except that provisions for EGR were added to the 2210, resulting in the 2245 designation. The Holley 2210 was first used in model year 1970, as I recall, eventually replacing the Carter BBD 1.56" throttle bore 2bbl carb (there was a smaller throttle bore size for 318s, with LA360s and 383s using the larger 1.56" model BBD)

Other than the tag, there should be a 4 digit stamp number on the carb's base casting, similar to what would be on other brands of carburetors. This location might vary, but the FSM and videos might detail that issue. The tag was used for easier access to the carb number without additional looking on the carb while it's on the engine (and on the carb assembly line itself), I suspect. They do get lost over time and rebuilds, by observation, so the stamp number is the best way to identify things.

@Dana at Woodruff Carb is the member referenced. There is a somehat recent thread of moving into their current location, a few months back.

Once you've verified the carb's numberf and know what you have, what seems to be the issue with the carb? Just curious.

CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

I had to search for the ads/resource you were referring to. There’s absolutely nothing to the right of the forum. I don’t know if this is just an iPhone thing but the whole stack of the sponsored ads are all the way at the very bottom of the page. I’ve literally never seen those until you mentioned that. Not trying to excuse myself nor do I feel the need to; just stating my POV from my phone. Who normally looks that far down past what they actually came here to read?

Link in my post.

 

[Daniel Romero]

Once you've verified the carb's numberf and know what you have, what seems to be the issue with the carb? Just curious.

————
Hello,

It’s recently been dying out at stop lights and it acts starved for fuel after as I have to pump multiple times on the pedal and I may or may not be able to start it back up, but if it does start then it usually keeps going fine from there.

 

[Xenon]

If it it old or been sitting for quite a while it is probably the accelerator pump has dry out and shrunk..
All symptoms point to this however if this is the case then the jets and passages are also probably not
the cleanest.. This is why sending it to @Dana is the best idea as he is fast and reasonable priced......

 

[Big_John]

Once you've verified the carb's numberf and know what you have, what seems to be the issue with the carb? Just curious.

————
Hello,

It’s recently been dying out at stop lights and it acts starved for fuel after as I have to pump multiple times on the pedal and I may or may not be able to start it back up, but if it does start then it usually keeps going fine from there.

Before you tear into the carb, you need to double check your fuel delivery because that could be the fuel pump.

Disconnect the fuel line and connect a rubber hose aimed into a coffee can. Disconnect the coil wire so it won't start.

Crank the engine over and it should start to fill that can with a solid stream of fuel. If it doesn't, it could be the pump or the pump rod could be worn.

 

[CBODY67]

Fuel pump and/or the fuel pump pushrod might be worn and shortened (needing a new one)?

 

[saforwardlook]

I am personally not familiar with some of the resources suggested in the above posts but they may well be the way to go.

Nonetheless, this subject has come up here several times and here is just one of the threads on this subject that has come up in the past:

engine idle problems

 

[shooter65]

For what it's worth, I've had Dana restore the carb on my 69 Sport Fury and rebuild the carb on my John Deere 1020. Both are running excellent now. I don't hesitate to recommend https://carburetorrestorationyoungstownoh.com/ and have several times.

 

[Big_John]

@Dana 's work. My Barracuda's carb.