As Big_John already knows, I totally disagree with him about dielectric grease, and here's why:
First, yes....the word "dielectric" connotes "insulator", but that's simply not the actual case at hand. When the connector or terminals make contact, they profoundly make the contact that they're going to make, metal-to-metal. Period. The grease is not present at the points of contact, just as air (which is a pretty good insulator at 12 volts) is not present at metal-to-metal. Grease (and air!) are squeezed out of that point of contact. Our crummy old blade connectors don't make a lot of contact, but what contact they do make, they are going to make with or without grease, with or without air. So why not use it? And about that air....it's humid and corrosive, as is just about anything else is that gets in that joint. Water in your connectors? Not good! Just ask your tail light sockets and bulb bases that are all corroded from moisture and air.
But dielectric grease solves that problem by keeping that air and moisture away from the metal. I've been using it on car and motorcycle connectors and light sockets for 40+ years. Once I have greased a socket or a connector, it has NEVER caused me a problem and never corrodes. How did I learn about this grease? My father used to hand-assemble US Navy satellites at the Naval Research Lab in Washington DC, and they used Dow Corning grease on their very fine and delicate, gold-plated pin connectors. In my mind's eye I can still see that big, olive-drab (military) tube of grease. I had one for years and years.
From the Dow Corning website:
Molykote™ 4 Electrical Insulating Compound
Dielectric moisture barrier on electrical equipment. NLGI Grade 2-3, translucent white, used primarily in electrical wiring systems and electrical assemblies and terminals. Offered in 5.3 oz tube, 8 lb pail, and 40 lb pail.
https://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff...__lubricating_electrical_connectors_final.pdf
And there's this discussion on the subject Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease, that contains this key sentence:
One incorrect logic is the "dielectric" in "dielectric grease" means the grease should only be used to insulate. All greases work by the low viscosity allowing the grease to completely push out of areas with metal-to-metal contact. Dielectric grease is just better at holding off high voltages over long paths.
But I'll agree with Big_John on one thing.....don't SLATHER it. Jut coat it.
First, yes....the word "dielectric" connotes "insulator", but that's simply not the actual case at hand. When the connector or terminals make contact, they profoundly make the contact that they're going to make, metal-to-metal. Period. The grease is not present at the points of contact, just as air (which is a pretty good insulator at 12 volts) is not present at metal-to-metal. Grease (and air!) are squeezed out of that point of contact. Our crummy old blade connectors don't make a lot of contact, but what contact they do make, they are going to make with or without grease, with or without air. So why not use it? And about that air....it's humid and corrosive, as is just about anything else is that gets in that joint. Water in your connectors? Not good! Just ask your tail light sockets and bulb bases that are all corroded from moisture and air.
But dielectric grease solves that problem by keeping that air and moisture away from the metal. I've been using it on car and motorcycle connectors and light sockets for 40+ years. Once I have greased a socket or a connector, it has NEVER caused me a problem and never corrodes. How did I learn about this grease? My father used to hand-assemble US Navy satellites at the Naval Research Lab in Washington DC, and they used Dow Corning grease on their very fine and delicate, gold-plated pin connectors. In my mind's eye I can still see that big, olive-drab (military) tube of grease. I had one for years and years.
From the Dow Corning website:
Molykote™ 4 Electrical Insulating Compound
Dielectric moisture barrier on electrical equipment. NLGI Grade 2-3, translucent white, used primarily in electrical wiring systems and electrical assemblies and terminals. Offered in 5.3 oz tube, 8 lb pail, and 40 lb pail.
- Primary Use – Dielectric moisture barrier on electrical equipment.
- Special Characteristics – High dielectric strength; least tacky of Dow Corning silicone compounds; moisture and ozone resistance.
- Physical Form – Medium-consistency, translucent white, grease-like silicone paste.
- Applications – Lubricating and moisture-proofing ignition systems, disconnect junctions, electrical assemblies and terminals, cable connectors and battery terminals; maintaining flexibility of natural and synthetic rubbers, vinyls, plastics, rubber and plastic O-rings.
- Temperature Range – From -40 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit (-40 to 204 degrees Celsius).
- Listings/Specifications – FDA 21 CFR 175.300, NSF 51, NSF 61.
- Container Sizes – Tubes, pails and drums
https://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff...__lubricating_electrical_connectors_final.pdf
And there's this discussion on the subject Dielectric Grease vs Conductive Grease, that contains this key sentence:
One incorrect logic is the "dielectric" in "dielectric grease" means the grease should only be used to insulate. All greases work by the low viscosity allowing the grease to completely push out of areas with metal-to-metal contact. Dielectric grease is just better at holding off high voltages over long paths.
But I'll agree with Big_John on one thing.....don't SLATHER it. Jut coat it.
