Dylan Galvin
Active Member
How do I get holes 1 and 2 back up behind holes 3 and 4? Should I just jack up that arm? I cant simply lift it up with my hands.
Installing Disc Brake Caliper Bracket
- Thread starter Dylan Galvin
- Start date
Yes, jack it up.
And put the hack under the other side before you take it apart.
And put the hack under the other side before you take it apart.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
Oy.
Jack it up. Be careful not to break off the grease fitting on the lower ball joint as they are a Pia to replace when broken.
Dave
Dave
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Thanks guys.
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
What?
bigmoparjeff
Senior Member
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Heh woops
You have a drum brake spindle and a lower ball joint in the picture. Are you doing aftermarket Disc brake conversion? You will need the brake backing plate to go on at the same time.
Where are the disc brake parts mentioned in the title?
Where are the disc brake parts mentioned in the title?
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
What disk brakes are you installing? That spindle is a drum brake unit.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
Lol oops, how did i miss your posting?
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Yes, I'm doing an aftermarket conversion. I have a willwood kit made specifically for the drum brake spindle, and the caliper mounting brack holds the whole mess together in my picture up there.
Keep the pictures coming, I’m interested to see how this disc brake set up works out for you.
traintech55
Senior Member
When you do the other side, place your jackstand under the lower control arm, the weight of the car will keep in an area where you can change everything, and as another of our members quote's, "TRY NOT TO DIE".
^This^
I think that it needs to be mentioned that you got kinda lucky. I probably should have said that in my post
Without any support under the lower control arm, it's being pushed down by the force of the torsion bar. The same force that holds the car up. What is holding it from dropping down farther looks like the sway bar and the front strut. They can take a lot, but really not meant to limit the downward motion and force.
So, as @traintech and I are saying, be sure to place that jack under the lower arm on the other side before you unbolt the lower ball joint. Coil springs are more dangerous, but torsion bars have the same kind of stored energy that is waiting to do you some damage. Not trying to be overcritical, just trying to keep you safe.
Edit: just looked at your profile and kudos to you for being 14 and tackling this project. Being on the planet for 50 years more gives us experience doing this work and living through our mistakes (LOL), it's natural for us to know where you have to put the jack... etc.
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traintech55
Senior Member
Dylan, like Big John I did not catch how young you are. Seems like God smiles down on us with some of the things we do at a young age. I remember some whopping mistakes over the years. This is what this site is for, to help get the information out there, good choice of car also, anyone can build a G.M., but you will enjoy a Chrysler product more. Word of warning, they can become addictive.
Bill
Bill
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Thanks for the advice and kind words. I'll be sure to get the jack under there next time around. I cant imagine doing these jobs 30-40 years ago without a helpful site like this one and helpful people like you all. Thanks again
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Hey so I'm out working on it now. I can jack it up so it compresses a small amount but then it just lift the whole car up and doesn't seem to make any progress. Does it sound like I'm jacking in the wrong spot, or should I just keep going?
Get the jack as far out on the arm as you can. As said, watch out that you don't break the grease fitting.
If that doesn't work, try pushing the upper control arm up and remove the rubber bumper. That might let you pull the upper arm down enough to get it together. If that doesn't work, you may have to back the torsion bar tension off a bit.
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