installing glove box
- Thread starter MoparGabe
- Start date
I did it once on a '62. It went through the door with some maneuvering. Good luck!
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Keep in mind the factory installed it with the dash out of the car, they never thought about having to replace it later.
Alan
Alan
So this is gonna be a ton fun with the dash In
I did mine in the ‘68 300 with the dash in, door off. Had to use a bit more force than I would have thought. It turned out nice, but not perfect…. But way, WAY better than the disintegrating one that was in there. Any one looking not too closely wouldn’t know the difference.
You will curse and be annoyed and get it wrong a few times, but it's actually pretty simple.
Remove door, pay attention when removing screws as to what overlaps what, pull old box out. Then, you DO have to get a bit forceful to get the stiff new parts in there. Go in on the diagonal and bend/twist/fold the cardboard a bit....and you're in. You'll need a sharp pointed tool like an awl or a pick to line up the screw holes of the box and the holes in the the dash structure....that's the cursing and annoyance part of the job. But it's easy, technically.
If your front panel is plastic, it will be very, very brittle. Be gentle and careful. You've been warned.
Remove door, pay attention when removing screws as to what overlaps what, pull old box out. Then, you DO have to get a bit forceful to get the stiff new parts in there. Go in on the diagonal and bend/twist/fold the cardboard a bit....and you're in. You'll need a sharp pointed tool like an awl or a pick to line up the screw holes of the box and the holes in the the dash structure....that's the cursing and annoyance part of the job. But it's easy, technically.
If your front panel is plastic, it will be very, very brittle. Be gentle and careful. You've been warned.
Lee Phillips
New Member
On my '67 Fury III convertible, there have been a few occasions over the years to remove the glove box. It is always hard on the box coming out and going in. If you need to do anything with the heater box, ducting, or the speaker, out it comes.
I finally got tired of the cardboard and fashioned a box shaped the same as the carboard out of 0.020" 2024-T3 ALCLAD aluminum, riveting most of it together with AN470-3-3 protruding head rivets. Rivet spacing is not real critical. I had to make it in two pieces, because it seemed impossible to collapse it enough to get it in place. Yeah, it's a bit of a tight fit.
So, the two pieces are held together with FS5000-8 floating nutplates held in place by AN470-3-2 protruding head rivets. and AN526-8-4 screws, joining the two pieces together once everything is more or less in place. I used #6 PK screws and U-type Tinnerman nuts to install it. It worked out pretty nice, but it is shiny, not black. And, no one is going to reach their hand through the cardboard
You might think he 0.020" material might be a bit skimpy, but it actually seems pretty sturdy, once it is all assembled and installed - much more so than the cardboard. I think I could have gotten away with 0.016" 2024-T3 ALCLAD, but I didn't have any. 0.032" would have been harder to manipulate - maybe too hard.
I finally got tired of the cardboard and fashioned a box shaped the same as the carboard out of 0.020" 2024-T3 ALCLAD aluminum, riveting most of it together with AN470-3-3 protruding head rivets. Rivet spacing is not real critical. I had to make it in two pieces, because it seemed impossible to collapse it enough to get it in place. Yeah, it's a bit of a tight fit.
So, the two pieces are held together with FS5000-8 floating nutplates held in place by AN470-3-2 protruding head rivets. and AN526-8-4 screws, joining the two pieces together once everything is more or less in place. I used #6 PK screws and U-type Tinnerman nuts to install it. It worked out pretty nice, but it is shiny, not black. And, no one is going to reach their hand through the cardboard
You might think he 0.020" material might be a bit skimpy, but it actually seems pretty sturdy, once it is all assembled and installed - much more so than the cardboard. I think I could have gotten away with 0.016" 2024-T3 ALCLAD, but I didn't have any. 0.032" would have been harder to manipulate - maybe too hard.
3175375
Senior Member
Good idea! I probably would’ve made it out of 0.090” aluminum….On my '67 Fury III convertible, there have been a few occasions over the years to remove the glove box. It is always hard on the box coming out and going in. If you need to do anything with the heater box, ducting, or the speaker, out it comes.
I finally got tired of the cardboard and fashioned a box shaped the same as the carboard out of 0.020" 2024-T3 ALCLAD aluminum, riveting most of it together with AN470-3-3 protruding head rivets. Rivet spacing is not real critical. I had to make it in two pieces, because it seemed impossible to collapse it enough to get it in place. Yeah, it's a bit of a tight fit.
So, the two pieces are held together with FS5000-8 floating nutplates held in place by AN470-3-2 protruding head rivets. and AN526-8-4 screws, joining the two pieces together once everything is more or less in place. I used #6 PK screws and U-type Tinnerman nuts to install it. It worked out pretty nice, but it is shiny, not black. And, no one is going to reach their hand through the cardboard
You might think he 0.020" material might be a bit skimpy, but it actually seems pretty sturdy, once it is all assembled and installed - much more so than the cardboard. I think I could have gotten away with 0.016" 2024-T3 ALCLAD, but I didn't have any. 0.032" would have been harder to manipulate - maybe too hard.
Lee Phillips
New Member
If 0.090", it would have to be ABSOLUTELY PERFECT or you'd never get it installed. Even then, it might be a mother bear! There is NO flexing that. Also, need bigger rivets, I suppose.
Also, need bigger rivets, I suppose.Similar threads
