You can always get some of this stuff to add during an oil change from Advance Auto Parts...
You can always get some of this stuff to add during an oil change from Advance Auto Parts...
That's an honest question.
It is sludged up.
Maybe not as bad as some engines but sludged up still the same..
If any of that is disturbed it could end up in the oil pick up reducing oil pressure & starvation.
Sludge in an engine will cause all sorts of issues including hot spots in the guts of the beast which shorten engine life..
the examplt I used was not as bad as some. here is another of my old engine in the rocker arms..
this stuff kills engines and you have to be careful how you remove it.
The engine cleaners can kill the engine as well if you are not prepared to remove th oil pan to clean the oil sump pick up after using them.
This of course is dependent on how much sludge has built up in the engine.
Alright guys and gals, new day, new diagnostics.
Using Carb cleaner I found a vaccum leak around the carburetor on the drivers side, it seems to be one of the gaskets itself even though they look like new. And the manifold to carb gasket is indeed new. I am going to try and use black rtv and my finger to coat the seals around the carb and see if that helps.
Now for the timing. Without a light, I was able to get the timing to a couple/few degrees before TDC. Using a light, I set the timing to 10 deg before TDC and if I am reading my FSM correctly is the ideal timing for the 318.
But it doesnt want to stay and keeps going back to 15+ before TDC after revving the engine.
What would cause this to happen?
It could be the advance weights/springs in the dizzy or the vacuum advance is slow returning. Does it go back eventually to 10? Do you still have a miss?
Holy crap,.that's pretty bad. That's not the new motor is it?
It could be the advance weights/springs in the dizzy or the vacuum advance is slow returning. Does it go back eventually to 10? Do you still have a miss?
If you are refering to the pics I posted showing my engine here, then no this is the original engine I had in my car.
My new engine is as clean as can be..
I agree, check the mechanical advance weights.
If there is any oil getting up into the distributor then after time it hardens up causing timing issues.
It feels like it still has a slight miss and a definite vacuum leak that I need to find and fix. I put a test light on all the plug wires and confirmed all plugs are at least getting spark. I have not done a compression test yet, but I did buy the gauge to do it if need be.
I will need to leave it run longer and see if it returns to 10. I will dig up how to check the dizzy weights/springs but if I still have a definite vacuum leak, would that affect the vacuum advance from returning?
Where did you say you are in NJ?! ;-)
I live in Tuckerton, NJ. If you want to drive the car down,.I'll give it a look over and do a super tune to it!
I live in Tuckerton, NJ. If you want to drive the car down,.I'll give it a look over and do a super tune to it!
I SAID NO LUID COMMENTS!!!!! :sSig_lol3:
Sorry, no disrespect intended!
This could be the issue, the distributor did not look very clean when I had it out and there is a small amount of oil in the top where the rotor goes. I assumed this was just a lubricant for the distributor.