Interesting Discovery of the Engine Kind

Brad Nelson

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When I bought my '66 Newport it came with a spare 383 and Torqueflight. Since the original owner had passed away many years ago, why he had a spare (used) engine and trans isn't known. I know that some time in 1980-81 he parked the car (presumably with the spare engine) and there it stayed until I bought it in 2016. Since I acquired it all that was done with the spare is that I wrapped it's failing garbage bags with more garbage bags and duct tape.
So, yesterday I finally got around to unwrapping that spare engine to find that it's a 1968 "standard" 383 with 518 heads. I poured a little transmission fluid down each cyl (heads were barely bolted on) and let set for a couple hours. Much to my surprise, unlike the 383 in my Newport, this engine turns!
The cyl walls are not too bad, but there is an obvious "ring ridge" at the top. But the crank spins freely.
What I'm going to do with it? Probably a quick "dingle ball" hone and throw it back together as a working spare. (I'm still going ahead with my plan to put a 5-7 in the Newport)
Here's a picture of it next to the '76 "motorhome" engine going in my 1973 D300 project.
39319401_1736807119706088_2715535605957132288_o.jpg
 
I would pull the pistons out and Mic the block. If you do not have a Mic, you can get a quick gauge as to the condition of the bores by taking off one of the compression rings. Use a piston to push it halfway down the bore and run a feeler gauge between the ends of the ring. This will give a measure of how far the rings and bore are worn. If you take a new ring and repeat this procedure, it will give you bore wear. A new ring, on a new bore halfway down the bore should have about .002-0025 clearance, whatever clearance there is above that is bore wear. A Mic is more accurate. Dingle-balling is good to remove surface rust and glazing but can't compensate for excessive wear. Look for copper on the bearings while you have it apart. The ring ridge will need to be removed with a ridge reamer or a re-bore job and if you are honing the engine, dingle-ball or otherwise, you will need new rings.

Dave
 
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Dude if you're still going to so the hemi swap, s-can the 383 and trans. Find someone to buy it and use the dough towards the swap.
 
I don't have access to my books at the moment to double-check, but didn't all big blocks get 906 heads starting in 1968?
 
I don't have access to my books at the moment to double-check, but didn't all big blocks get 906 heads starting in 1968?
Good catch, 906 or 250 also comes to mind. If the heads were barely attached somebody could have swapped the 906s.
 
I agree about the small valves in the 516 heads. Closed chamber heads have less issues with detonation on today's crap gas. Downside is that the quality port work at today's prices (hard seats, bronze guides Stellite or similar hardened valves and port relief on the older hi-flow heads) is almost as much as the aftermarket performance heads. Only major advantage is that the older heads are iron and more durable.

Dave
 
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You have a LOT more faith in that orange engine stand than I would!
 
I don’t know, I like a closed chamber head myself...

In theory yes closed chamber heads have advantages. But the 516 heads the valves are small compared to 906 and 452's.

I agree about the small valves in the 516 heads. Closed chamber heads have less issues with detonation on today's crap gas. Downside is that the quality port work at today's prices (hard seats, bronze guides Stellite or similar hardened valves and port relief on the older hi-flow heads) is almost as much as the aftermarket performance heads. Only major advantage is that the older heads are iron and more durable.

Dave
I would only go through the expense of the valve swap and head reconditioning for a stock restoration, and I think I'll only be doing one of those in my lifetime.
 
In theory yes closed chamber heads have advantages. But the 516 heads the valves are small compared to 906 and 452's.
Bigger exhaust valves in these heads are not at all expensive.
 
You have a LOT more faith in that orange engine stand than I would!
Looks the same as one of mine and I’ve had almost fully assembled big blocks on it.
 
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