Introduction of Mike McGuire

Do you have a good radiator shop near you? I would remove both radiators have them rod them out. Also check both water pump housings, are they factory? Not aftermarket replacements. I remember seeing some problems with the aftermarket one's at the outlets.
 
For a start, I think one issue is the lack of a fan shroud as with it the airflow is directed at the engine, currently it's going everywhere.

A quality radiator shop and maybe a new or recored unit with a larger core area will also help and your comment about increased carburettion raising the engine temperature could be spot on.

All the best with your car once she's sorted out.
 
Update...
Replaced water pump with new HP one, flushed cooling system, added a shroud, clutch fan, and she still overheats.... (2v Rupert)
whiskey Tango Foxtrot
Pretty sure I'm stuck on this one...
Any suggestions/ ideas?
 
Do you have a good radiator shop near you? I would remove both radiators have them rod them out. Also check both water pump housings, are they factory? Not aftermarket replacements. I remember seeing some problems with the aftermarket one's at the outlets.


Both stock housings. I suppose I could bring them to a shop but the infared camera shows cores being pretty good. These motors still have the old valve seats, but I use lead additive....
 
What do you have the timing set at? You could have a crusty mineral build up inside the radiator which would decrease the flow rate but that would also tend to pinch off the lower hose. When you get moving at higher cruising speeds does it cool it down some?

Timing is advanced about an inch below bottom of metal guide tab near harmonic balancer.
Lower radiator hose has spring in it.
Heating is proportional to speed. Heat camera shots dosent look bad.
 
If they just sit and idle will they eventually overheat? With all you have done I would still want to check the radiators in both cars. If you can see the thermostats open in both cars then they aren't air locked from a leaking headgasket. The thermostat stays open the whole time it's running doesn't it?
 
If they just sit and idle will they eventually overheat? With all you have done I would still want to check the radiators in both cars. If you can see the thermostats open in both cars then they aren't air locked from a leaking headgasket.
The thermostat stays open the whole time it's running doesn't it?

I wonder if i have exhaust/ coolant interaction...
I don't see lots of steam in the exhaust.

Would gobs of sludge on heads do it?
Perhaps I'll get the radiators checked and crack the valve covers while that's going on....
 
Maybe they both need to be burped...

Got a shroud, no thermostat, clutch fan, new water pump, flushed whole system out, spring on lower hose confirmed..... still overheating.
I don't think she is running too lean, plugs aren't white.... I don't think there is too much loading on motor, it idles fine. likewise I don't think I have a valve stuck open.
Can you explain, 'burped'?
thanks,
Mike
 
I still keep coming back to having the radiator cores checked, a good radiator shop can remove the tanks and run rods through the tubes.
 
I suppose I could do that, but the radiator (in the 2V) is a larger than the stock 2V radiator, it looks like it came off of a 4V, being wider and 3 core, (vs. 2V dual core) and it has AL cores, so it was recently an upgrade to the previous owner, so he has already been there. (it was a barn find for him, and they didn't put AL cores in radiators in 82 when it was parked in the barn he found it in). I suspect it will be a futile effort, but I can't figure out what else it could be. So, I will try this for my next effort. Thank you. Stay tuned.

note: I can't help but wonder if the over-heating in the spring carried any long term ill effects that are a cause for it's current state....
 
You say Al core, so it's not a copper/brass but aluminum with plastic tanks? The copper/brass can be taken apart the aluminum cannot because you can't get the gaskets to reseal the tanks to the cores.
 
Well dang. Not sure. They are definitely brass tanks, but look like aluminum cores. I'll have to take a closer look at the cores.
radiator rupert.jpg
 
If they are brass tanks the core has to be copper, they are soldered together.
 
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