Lower ball joint question.

[saylor]

Is that a bumper and that rotted off? That was one part I didn't use from their kit.

it is a bumper / bump stop and it fell off like it has leprosy. the other side is split also, but hanging on by a tendon. @p-s-t

looking at my notes, I bought it in 02/14.

 

[LocuMob]

it is a bumper / bump stop and it fell off like it has leprosy. the other side is split also, but hanging on by a tendon. @p-s-t

looking at my notes, I bought it in 02/14.

I remember looking at the new piece, looking at mine, and setting the new piece back on the bench. Everything else is doing it's job still, and I installed around the same timeframe.

 

[cantflip]

View attachment 325264 I wanted to jump in about P-S-T parts - I got the entire front end rebuild from PST for a 68 fury. the stuff has failed already. they say its dry rot and will not honor replacement. then they want me to send in the parts so they can evaluate them.

I drive my car 1x/week, and only for about an hour at a time. its my sunday funday car. it gets 0 abuse, doesn't get driven in rain, etc., etc. and the PST rubber has already failed.

just sayin.

View attachment 325265
i was setting my torsion bars back and looked up into the chassis and this . ..

it is a bumper / bump stop and it fell off like it has leprosy. the other side is split also, but hanging on by a tendon. @p-s-t

looking at my notes, I bought it in 02/14.

I remember looking at the new piece, looking at mine, and setting the new piece back on the bench. Everything else is doing it's job still, and I installed around the same timeframe.

That's a poorly made part, look at all the air bubbles in that rubber, no wonder it fell apart. Those guys suck if you sent them a picture and they chose not to warranty them.

 

[John Kirby]

I would take it to a shop and have them look over the suspension. Doesn't usually cost anything. As for replacing control arm bushings your self, it's not a bolt on part. It requires a hydraulic press to remove and install them. Find a competent shop that knows what they're doing. I had a lower control arm destroyed by an idiot that bent the adjusting lever inside it while replacing the bushing. The difficult part is finding a place that can do an alignment afterward. Most techs these days only know what the computer tells them. If the computer doesn't list your car, they're clueless. I had to look around and ask at car shows to find a place that can do it.

 

[lemondana]

30 years ago, I bought one of those P-S-T kits for my 73 Dart. Half the kit was made in China way back then already. You could clearly see the quality was inferior. Never again!

 

[Gerald Morris]

I would take it to a shop and have them look over the suspension. Doesn't usually cost anything. As for replacing control arm bushings your self, it's not a bolt on part. It requires a hydraulic press to remove and install them. Find a competent shop that knows what they're doing. I had a lower control arm destroyed by an idiot that bent the adjusting lever inside it while replacing the bushing. The difficult part is finding a place that can do an alignment afterward. Most techs these days only know what the computer tells them. If the computer doesn't list your car, they're clueless. I had to look around and ask at car shows to find a place that can do it.

I did upper and lower control arm bushings about 22 months ago, and while it was painful getting the old stuff off and out, I was able to press in the new stuff with tools from home and some clever ad hoc improvisations. The uppers are fine, but ALAS! the LOWERS show clear signs of dry-rotted rubber! Soooo, I will be re-doing that trip around Christmas I figure, THIS TIME WITH MOOG BUSHINGS! I will research polyurethane a bit, but almost surely will opt for Moog now, unless I see some really convincing data....

 

[LocuMob]

I did upper and lower control arm bushings about 22 months ago, and while it was painful getting the old stuff off and out, I was able to press in the new stuff with tools from home and some clever ad hoc improvisations. The uppers are fine, but ALAS! the LOWERS show clear signs of dry-rotted rubber! Soooo, I will be re-doing that trip around Christmas I figure, THIS TIME WITH MOOG BUSHINGS! I will research polyurethane a bit, but almost surely will opt for Moog now, unless I see some really convincing data....

You don't need Poly bushings.

 

[saylor]

@p-s-t @PST aight it was all fun and games when it was just the bump stops cheap chinar rubber yall have. I replaced them with poly stoppers from summit like I said I would. 12 bucks oh well ive spent way more on way less in my life.

but today, today, you killin me smalls. this camber bolt failed. while I was on the alignment bench. they had to take me down off the rack and send me home like this. thank god I have a parts car and I could grab another camber bolt. id be totally screwed waiting on an order from somewhere with this.

so I drive home limping, undo the whole freaking side tension so I can swap out this bolt. drive back to the shop, get back in line, and do the whole alignment again.

you killin me smalls.

 

[PST]

Saylor,

Please PM your full details ( Name and address) and I will look into your issue. I see in a previous post that you purchased your kit is February of 2014? Had you been driving it regularly up to the point of having this most recent alignment done? What is your current ride height set at?

Thanks
James From
PST

 

[fury fan]

Old thread, but wanted to add:
Every time I've had a clunk from the front suspension (3 different cars) it was a worn idler arm, where the tapered pin fit into the centerlink. The pin was tight in the centerlink but loose in the idler.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Old thread, but wanted to add:
Every time I've had a clunk from the front suspension (3 different cars) it was a worn idler arm, where the tapered pin fit into the centerlink. The pin was tight in the centerlink but loose in the idler.

How the Universe works! I'm batting .666 on this one myself. The third "clunk," on the first car, turned out to be the right LCA bushing having completely disintegrated "prematurely" due to my own ignorant failure to buy fresh AMERICAN rubber, AND, worse yet, stupidly tightening things up before putting it under load. "Haste makes waste" and such. For the Constant Reader: if it clunks, but doesn't pull HARD when braking, look at the idler arm. If it does pull hard when braking, look to the LCA bushings then ball joints if the first isn't the source.