Meet Regina FQ3, a 1970 Polara convertible who turns 51 today

The next morning, I arrived with fluids and started with filling the diff...some 80w90 is what I read would be sufficient for this open differential. I topped it off until it leaked out and plugged it up.

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I then filled the trans with 1 gallon of ATF +4 to start. After running thru the gears, I checked the level and added an additional quart to achieve a full reading. Running and warm in neutral of course.
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Next up was a quick oil change with a new wix filter and 5qts of Brad Penn 15w40

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After that I fired the car up and let it run while I adjusted the timing. With the timing mark no longer bouncing around, I set it to 13 degrees and adjusted to idle speed to 750ish RPM and went for a quick test drive. The car is much more pleasant to drive. I did feel the rear drums were dragging a little so I put it back on the lift and re adjusted the drums a little looser. I also double checked the axle end play and to my surprise it had changed considerably. I got the dial indicator back out and dialed it back down within the specs in the FSM. I imagine getting the grease into the bearings had something to do with it changing with the lock in place. Now that the grease has been pushed into the bearing I full expect the endplay to stay put.

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I took some time to get rid of the incorrect wiper blades, but I utilized their inserts to make 1 set of correct appearing blades with a set of them I had on hand from a recent donor I picked up.

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The last thing I encountered now that it was time for testing. I needed heat and the blower did not function. I glanced at the fuses and they all appeared to be intact. That led me to think the switch in the heat control was no good. I used another switch to check and it was the same result, no blower.

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So then I moved on to the resistor as these 2 things are the easiest to check without dropping the inner fender. I tried a different resistor and still nothing.

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Crap... But then I decided I better make sure the switch is getting power. I got out my test light and discovered the switch wasn't getting power. Back to the fuse box with my test light, and checked the fuse and while it looked good visually, power was not traveling through it. I pulled it out and got the glass tube and metal end in my hand and the fuse and other end stayed in the fuse block.

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After I swapped the fuse with a new one, the blower motor started up and we had heat! I went for another test drive and was very satisfied with the results. No more drums dragging, Hot Heat blowing, no humming or funny noises from the rear axle. The 3.23 really makes the car more fun to drive too. Excellent gear for this convertible. I also verified the speedometer with my GPS on Google maps, and it seems to be dead on! YES!

I parked the car and slid some fresh cardboard underneath while I am away from the shop to check for any new leaks whatsoever.

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Stay tuned for more updates on Regina! Will be doing lots of road testing as weather permits and finishing up minor details before sending her home.
 
Good idea. I’ll get a mini starter for Regina. We can keep the original in her trunk in case I ever sell the car and the new owner wants to revert.

Edit: ordered a Procomp Electronics PCE393.1013 from Summit, and a Mopar Mini Starter Terminal Conversion/Relocation Kit.

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OMG, you're gonna do it! I thought you didn't modify anything, so I was doing this:

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Carlisle allows up to four mods. I figure that I can allow myself one. I’ll keep the original starter with the car, but not on the car; the Mini is an improvement worth making. In the same vein, I don’t use asbestos brake pads and I use radial tires.
 
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Carlisle allows up to four mods. I figure that I can allow myself one. I’ll keep the original starter with the car, but not on the car; the Mini is an improvement worth making. In the same vein, I don’t use asbestos brake pads and I use radial tires.

I'm gonna hafta revise my FCBO standard offer - again. . .
 
CHEAP!!!!...............Chinese???
I do not know. As should be clear from the information in this thread, I do not skimp and get what I think is gonna work best. In this case, I did not go for the price, I went for the expected quality. The reviews of the ProComp are better than the reviews for units priced more expensively (not just the star rating, but also the comments of users/buyers).

FWIW, I have the same unit on another car and it works well -- though it should be noted that only time will tell, as I have not driven that car enough to make comments on long term reliability.
 
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Carlisle allows up to four mods. I figure that I can allow myself one. I’ll keep the original starter with the car, but not on the car; the Mini is an improvement worth making. In the same vein, I don’t use asbestos brake pads and I use radial tires.
I didn’t know they did that level of judging on C bodies at Carlisle.
 
I didn’t know they did that level of judging on C bodies at Carlisle.
Hmm, I have no idea -- as you know, I never put my cars up for judging at shows. I am happy for my friends when they win awards, and I completely get that classic car fans would like to participate, but what gets me going is to drive a C-body and get the experience of fifty years ago. That is why @71Polara383 and I are going through Regina thoroughly, and doing some preventative maintenance to boot, to minimize the likelihood of a major issue on a long trip.

My reference to the Carlisle "stock" definition was thus for illustrative purposes only, based on their definition of "stock." It was to reply to Mr. Smarty Pans, @fury fan :D

This said, I like original cars, and will got to quite some lengths to get things back the way they "should" be -- @fury fan knows me well, and that is why he's trying to push my buttons on the mini starter. :rolleyes:
 
Hmm, I have no idea -- as you know, I never put my cars up for judging at shows. I am happy for my friends when they win awards, and I completely get that classic car fans would like to participate, but what gets me going is to drive a C-body and get the experience of fifty years ago. That is why @71Polara383 and I are going through Regina thoroughly, and doing some preventative maintenance to boot, to minimize the likelihood of a major issue on a long trip.

My reference to the Carlisle "stock" definition was thus for illustrative purposes only, based on their definition of "stock." It was to reply to Mr. Smarty Pans, @fury fan :D

This said, I like original cars, and will got to quite some lengths to get things back the way they "should" be -- @fury fan knows me well, and that is why he's trying to push my buttons on the mini starter. :rolleyes:
Mini starter? Might as well go crate Hemi and be done with it.

:poke: :poke: :rofl: :rofl:
 
It was to reply to Mr. Smarty Pans, @fury fan :D

This said, I like original cars, and will got to quite some lengths to get things back the way they "should" be -- @fury fan knows me well, and that is why he's trying to push my buttons on the mini starter. :rolleyes:
Was my agitation successful?
I like feedback on how I've touched others' lives.:)
 
Time to get back to original stuff, so that @fury fan is reassured that I have not had a personality change.

Regina's original air cleaner (yes, the one with the holes punched) has the OEM sticker on it -- see the first photo below. The new air cleaner is freshly refurbished (it was taken, as I mentioned a few weeks ago, not just from any L-code 1970 Polara but off an FQ3 383 2-barrel engine), and as such it needs a sticker within the air filter instructions.

Many decal repops are listed online that are supposedly appropriate for a 1970 or 1971 383-2 air cleaner, but most are not appropriate as they refer to a different part number for the air filter (for a 1970 383-2, it should be P/N 286 3349 as seen in Regina's original sticker).

So far, I have found only two stickers with the correct 2863349 air filter number (see below for pics) -- but unfortunately there seem to be other differences with Regina's sticker (maybe we can play "spot the difference"). The one from Dale's Cuda is closest in appearance, save for the spacing/positioning of the small-font text.

Suggestions? Recommendations?

Regina original:
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eBay:
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Dale's Cuda:
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Time to get back to original stuff, so that @fury fan is reassured that I have not had a personality change.

Regina's original air cleaner (yes, the one with the holes punched) has the OEM sticker on it -- see the first photo below. The new air cleaner is freshly refurbished (it was taken, as I mentioned a few weeks ago, not just from any L-code 1970 Polara but off an FQ3 383 2-barrel engine), and as such it needs a sticker within the air filter instructions.

Many decal repops are listed online that are supposedly appropriate for a 1970 or 1971 383-2 air cleaner, but most are correct not as they refer to a different part number for the air filter (for a 1970 383-2, it is P/N 286 3349 as seen in Regina' original).

I have found only two with the correct 2863349 air filter number (see below for pics) -- but unfortunately there seem to be other errors (maybe we can play "spot the difference"). The one from Dale's Cuda is closest in appearance, save for the spacing/positioning of the small-font text.

Suggestions? Recommendations?

Regina original:
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eBay:
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Dale's Cuda:
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Take a look here: Air Filter Instructions Decals Mopar Chrysler Plymouth Dodge

I think they have one that's closer. Look at the 2863349 68 decal.
 
Take a look here: Air Filter Instructions Decals Mopar Chrysler Plymouth Dodge

I think they have one that's closer. Look at the 2863349 68 decal.
I think we have a winner! The company that you suggested, Performance Car Graphics, looks like the only one I have seen in my search that is being careful. Here is their comment for the part that I ordered ($12.50 shipped) after reading your post:

2863349 68: Filter: 2¾" x 12¾" Decal: 3" x 19/16" 1968 340, 383, 440 unsilenced, usually. Decal never has "Made in Canada" at bottom. Can be found originally on same applications 1969-71, but not often.

Regina is proof positive of such an application in 1970. Thank you @Big_John!

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PS: The 2863349 for 69-71 looks different in several respects, including « Made in Canada »
 
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