Mopar 8.75 Sure Grip/ Limited Slip rebuild questions

hilly101111111

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Good afternoon all, I just had some simple questions about my Mopar 8.75 rear. I recently had my 489 case rebuilt complete with new Yukon ring and pinion and a Yukon ZPPC 8.75 SMTH PowerLok posi. This is going in my 1973 Chrysler New Yorker which will eventually have a brand new 440 in it. What gear oil should I go with? Do I need a limited slip additive? the Shop didn't say anything to me. I suppose I can call them and ask. I also had brand new green bearings pressed on to my axle shafts and I was wondering do I need a locater button or something for them or can I just install them the way they are? please excuse my ignorance on the topic of rear ends I simply am new to the game and am seeking knowledge.
 
Perhaps rather than talk to the shop, you might contact Yukon directly about your questions. If there were any instructions with the ltd slip unit, they probably went into the trash after the shop operatives read them. Might even be something on the Yukon website, too? A lot might relate to if the diff is "locked until it unlocks" (spring pressure against the clutches) or "unlocked until it locks" (a visible toothed wheel and a swing-out weight).

GM also has a similar LSD additive, but I strongly suspect they are all basically the same.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
General rule, if it's a friction type limited slip, it needs additive to not chatter. If it's a helical style like a torsen, it doesn't need additive.
 
Use this LSD additive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU5LP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No spacer needed when you downgrade to the green bearings.
Use this LSD additive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU5LP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No spacer needed when you downgrade to the green bearings.
thank you . So why would the green bearings be a downgrade? ive been told they are good and the are bad just like the original bearings
same information.
 
I have not delved into the differences, but it seems some like them as others do not. Each has their reasons. Diffrnt strokes??

CBODY67
 
thank you . So why would the green bearings be a downgrade? ive been told they are good and the are bad just like the original bearings
same information.

Here's the reason Green bearings started being used... Back when drag racers started running spools instead of sure-grips, there was no easy way to have that spacer that sits between the axles. It also made gear swaps a little easier because you didn't have to adjust the bearing side play. "Green" was the name of the now defunct bearing company.

The downside is a ball bearing won't handle a side load like the OEM tapered roller bearing does. Of course, a lot of guys have had no problem with it, and site that "new cars have ball bearings" which is true... But back in the day, it was very unusual to have to change the OEM bearings, even after many miles. From my observations, there seems to be a lot of newer cars out there that have to change those ball bearings at 50K. But, again, guys do use Green bearings with success, but these cars also have limited use.

I changed slightly noisy axle bearings that were original to a 50 year old car. I rode in my son's car the other day... 5 years old, 100K miles and the rear was growling like crazy... Needing its bearing replaced for the second time.

So, as far as I can see, there's no advantage to using Green bearings at all. In your application, all you've done is lose the need (or is it ability?) to adjust the sideload of the axle. If you were running a spool (dumb idea for a street car LOL) it would make things easier, but you aren't running a spool. While opinions vary, IMHO, you've done absolutely nothing to "upgrade" or make it better. The car isn't going to go any faster... Isn't going to handle better etc. So, no matter what, at best it's a time saver, but the 5 minutes it takes to adjust it correctly isn't that much.

Now, there are a lot of guys that defend the Green bearings, but I have yet to see one actually say more than "It's not caused a problem in xxx miles".

There are things that you can do to "upgrade" your car. Some stuff that is suggested by the guys at the Saturday morning Dairy Queen Cars & Coffee aren't upgrades. I see a lot of it here. My suggestion is to do your own research before doing anything...

So, that's my opinion... Some share it and some don't. I'm not telling you to get rid of your new bearings... If they were properly pressed on, they will probably be fine...

But there is nothing "bad" about the original type bearing. I don't think anyone will disagree on that point.
 
Perhaps the reason some like the Green bearings is their "set it and forget it" orientation? To some, anything that can save time is an upgrade, it seems. I guess the same people didn't like to adjust front wheel bearings either?

Take care,
CBODY67
 
Most of the disc brake swaps for the 8.75" or Dana also require use of green bearings, that's another reason they're popular now. I think Dr. Diff has a rear disc kit that still allows use of the tapered bearings but it was more expensive the last time I checked.

I have green bearings in the S60 in my car but would've preferred to keep the tapered bearings if it was available.
 
Most of the disc brake swaps for the 8.75" or Dana also require use of green bearings, that's another reason they're popular now. I think Dr. Diff has a rear disc kit that still allows use of the tapered bearings but it was more expensive the last time I checked.
I purchased the Dr. Diff rear (Mustang) disc kit and retained my tapered roller bearings. Works fine.
Mike
I have green bearings in the S60 in my car but would've preferred to keep the tapered bearings if it was available.
 
  • CASTROL INC. 12612 HYPOY C GEAR OIL
    I've always used this.
 
The green bearings are not a "downgrade" as i have stated and shown many, many times before. I drive my car daily, long distance, and harder than most, year round with a big stroker motor and a detroit locking differential, and drag race it frequently with sticky tires. Never a problem. If there was any failure mechanism i would have found it long ago.
 
Look for a YouTube vid from Chris birdsong on his junkerup channel. He shows a green bearing taken apart. There aren’t many bearings in there and they aren’t very big. It may be a newer cheaper quality bearing or who knows, but it looks like a rapid failure point to me. I wouldn’t use them. The tapered roller bearings are set and forget, they will last decades with little or no maintenance. That’s my .02.
Travis..
 
Look for a YouTube vid from Chris birdsong on his junkerup channel. He shows a green bearing taken apart. There aren’t many bearings in there and they aren’t very big. It may be a newer cheaper quality bearing or who knows, but it looks like a rapid failure point to me. I wouldn’t use them. The tapered roller bearings are set and forget, they will last decades with little or no maintenance. That’s my .02.
Travis..
I am not sure how to state their durability more plainly than my post above. I have absolutely pounded on my car, year round, with a big motor, locking differential and sticky tires on the street and strip. The green bearings are great.
 
I’m sure that just like everything else, it depends on brand, country of origin, and likely when they were made to get good ones. Over the years I had always heard that they were drag race only, not intended for the side loads that street use exerts on the bearing. I headed that advise and never had a desire to try them. I think if I wanted to run non adjustable bearings on the street, I’d put 9” ends on my housing and use ford stuff. At least then it would be oem level of design and durability. Just my take.
Travis..
 
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