Thats an approach I hadn't though of. Household oven use I learned my lesson on years ago. Does give me an idea to check out using vacuum molding parts.
My unexpected Hurst 300 Find
- Thread starter david hill
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fury fan
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That is likely a better idea, but I don't have one yet.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
You'd be right if Trace used the word flare, but he used the word flair, in the correct manner. There, their, they're...
Yeah, I was gonna comment on fury's comment, but I quickly realized he was talkin' 'bout Chrysler, not me. We can assume that the ad-copy folks got big money to use the right words and triple-checked the usage and spelling.You'd be right if Trace used the word flare, but he used the word flair, in the correct manner. There, their, they're...
"Their laughing at me because I made a bad flair on my break line to the rear axel."
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I missed that connection. I guess that's what I get for not waking up fully before hoping on FCBO!
Okay, let's get back to David's new Pride & Joy.
Without a good "escutcheon" (look that one up!) to model from, how do you 3-D this thing? And for that matter, I've never seen a good, whole, unbroken "seat release thingy" on the 12-odd Hursts I've inspected. EDIT: 13 including David's!
Without a good "escutcheon" (look that one up!) to model from, how do you 3-D this thing? And for that matter, I've never seen a good, whole, unbroken "seat release thingy" on the 12-odd Hursts I've inspected. EDIT: 13 including David's!
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the 3D print part isn't hard. The trickiest part is getting a a good 3d model designed to start from. Someone would need an original in decent shape to measure from and a bit of trial and error.
Then it's just finding printer filament that matches color and a couple hours on the printer.
Well, yes, exactly. Getting a good "thingy" is certainly an issue, as is the trial & error and the color match, etc.
That's why I was so ecstatic to find a pair of these chrome versions at Carlisle:
I'm not the CAD guy here, but you could work with this. There's enough to get a length/width/depth and the CL to CL on the screw holes. I could probably get one pretty close with the "Tinkercad" program I use. That's the simplest CAD program out there (the rest have a really steep learning curve.
You would need a more complete version if you wanted to scan it though.
live4theking
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^^^
I agree there is plenty of that one left to make on. One of the guys I work with plays with modelling and 3d printing. I bet he could do it in an evening.
I agree there is plenty of that one left to make on. One of the guys I work with plays with modelling and 3d printing. I bet he could do it in an evening.
Now that's a Bold Statement we're all happy to hear!
fury fan
Senior Member
All of the recent comments align with my thoughts.
The 2 circled areas provide 2 cross-sections, and the hole locations, slot dimensions, etc, would be simple caliper-measuring to the nearest .01" or so.
I am starting to wonder if hogging the thing from a block of plastic is perhaps a better option.
Would be a 2-sided operation, but this isn't an aerospace part as far as fixturing.
The surface finish from that would be undesirable, though.
And I'm not sure what type of plastic is available, in sufficient thickness, that also machines well.
And also takes paint.
ABS is my favorite, as it makes nice chips when it cuts. (and I got a bunch of free sheet scraps at a past job)
But I've always left it in its natural black.
The 2 circled areas provide 2 cross-sections, and the hole locations, slot dimensions, etc, would be simple caliper-measuring to the nearest .01" or so.
I am starting to wonder if hogging the thing from a block of plastic is perhaps a better option.
Would be a 2-sided operation, but this isn't an aerospace part as far as fixturing.
The surface finish from that would be undesirable, though.
And I'm not sure what type of plastic is available, in sufficient thickness, that also machines well.
And also takes paint.
ABS is my favorite, as it makes nice chips when it cuts. (and I got a bunch of free sheet scraps at a past job)
But I've always left it in its natural black.
While going through the rear diff. I found out I have one bent rear wheel. The replacement wheel I have. the strips I do not. Anyone know If I can buy just stripes for the rims.
David, once upon a time the Chrysler 300 Club had repro stripe kits for the car, and I think for the wheels.
As for that club, they absolutely HATE the Hurst car. Those SOBs wouldn't even TALK to me a Carlisle, three separate years. I had so many "history" questions that I thought they (of all people!) might know something about. But their disdain and contempt for me was a shock. The lone exception was Al Moon...a decent fellow indeed.
Well that explains the deafening silence I've had from them. Well fellow Hurst owners on FCBO can we pool our knowledge. A better solution has to be out there.
I figure some of those nose-in-the-air pricks are FCBO members. Maybe a brave one will come forward to defend their miserably bad behavior (as group behavior, not as an individual like Al Moon) towards Hurst cars and their owners.
sixpkrt
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Try this place for the wheel stripes David....
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst Hood Sides Wheels Pinstripes Decals
Here is a kicker that I need an answer to. What color are the front bucket seat backs supposed to be painted. Is it the saddle Tan or the hurst gold. Is there an exact paint color code that supports this. I just want to restore this w/ no mistakes. I started to clean them and a lot of color came off w/ the dirt.
The Hurst Gold was on the exterior, period, and it had NOTHING to do with any Chrysler color, period. Legend has it that it's Caddy Sauterne Mist, not even an Olds or Pontiac color. The Hurst interior was pure OEM Imperial Saddle, whatever that color might be. You might want to acquire one of those interior sample cards you see for sale out there to really figure out what Chrysler's color actually was. The "Upper Door Frame" code is FT6, Dark Tan Metallic but I really don't think the plastics are that color.
Here's a pic I took of a survivor....tan. I never took a pic of my own seatbacks.
My kicks really peeled when I cleaned them. The Rustoleum Satin Nutmeg was pretty good to restore them (sorry, no pics of finished panels)
The SEM is really good, the simple Rustoleum from Depot is also pretty good. What I've found is that there are several shades of "tan" in the Hurst interior, be it leather or hard plastic or softer plastic like the kick panels. They're all just a wee bit different IMHO.
Side note: I had a pal who had a rather nice mid 70's Capri (Crapi). We were installing a cassette player or something and we counted 10 or 12 shades (tints, hues, shiny, matte) of the medium brown of the overall interior theme. Every piece of plastic was slightly different....hilarious! And typical of the era.
Thanks Trace, that gives me some good feed back. My concern was the best quality dye or paint that didn't have too heavy a spray pattern and build up on the surface.
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