Mystery AC compressor?

craigl

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howdy, i have restored my first car. it was given to me by my grandparents when i was 16. i have had it ever since. i restored it a year ago. i am not a real car guy so please forgive my naivete. i spent much more restoring this thing than it is worth - but it has sentimental value. here is my question...

where on earth can i find that AC compressor? i have looked everywhere. the images that pop up are NOT what you see in this picture. so, i thought i would ask if anyone knew of a place/person i could speak with. thank you.

AC compressor.jpg


IMG_0607.jpg
 
Do NOT be thrown off by the larger, single belt clutch pulley on the 318 cars when compared to the B/RB cars. Same basic compressor once the clutch/pulley is removed. If you get a reman compressor, compare the oil pans and use the one from your current compressor if needed.

IF using R-134a rather than R-12, you'll need to flush out all of the old oil and replace it with oil compatible with R-134a, I suspect. But things might have changed a bit in the last 20 years or so?

What is the issue with the current compressor? Just curious.

Keep up the great work!
CBODY67
 
Do NOT be thrown off by the larger, single belt clutch pulley on the 318 cars when compared to the B/RB cars. Same basic compressor once the clutch/pulley is removed. If you get a reman compressor, compare the oil pans and use the one from your current compressor if needed.

IF using R-134a rather than R-12, you'll need to flush out all of the old oil and replace it with oil compatible with R-134a, I suspect. But things might have changed a bit in the last 20 years or so?

What is the issue with the current compressor? Just curious.

Keep up the great work!
CBODY67
well, I had the thing restored by a man in College Station - Doug with Classic Cars and Restoration. He did a great job and I could not be happier. However, the bill was enormous and to save money I said do not bother with the AC system. Ill do it at a later date. well, today is the later date. The AC system has not run since 1992. I have to believe it will need a 100% restore. I figured i might as well start with purchasing a new compressor. To answer your question... i have not tried to run it.
 
If the system has not been opened to the atmosphere, you might be surprised to find that things may not need replacing. It's the humidity in the atmosphere that kills the system from the inside - have a good old-school AC shop check the system - see if there's any charge in it to begin with. If so, that's a bonus. Have them check to see if the compressor that's on there actually turns. If so, another bonus.

Then have them vacuum down the system and check if it holds vacuum - if so, another bonus - then they can charge with nitrogen and check for leaks.

If all checks out, then they can try charging the system and see if it actually works!
 
Additionally, about the only part you might count on changing might be the receiver/drier. IF the system holds pressure well, no need for new hoses as the R-12 compressor oil allegedly seals the rubber from the inside over time. Good thing is that there are a good number of metal lines in that system.

What condition is the heater core and system in?

Do not start chunking parts before you discover you might need to.

NOW . . . IF things don't work out well, doing the full conversion to a Sanden compressor might be viable option. Search for @TxDon's thread on converting his '66 Monaco wagon for information of where to buy the items needed to do the full conversion, DIY style.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Try it first. Put a set of line gauges on it and see what pressures you have with everything off.

Recover any refrigerant , if pressures are below 50 psi. Pull a vacuum on it and see if it holds.
If so, you could recharge and try, but I would recommend replacing the expansion valve and receiver/drier, if vacuum holds.

If there’s leaks in attempting to hold a vacuum, then more diagnosis to find the leak is required. At that point, conversion to R-134a may be the best bet.
 
For leak testing, I would say to use a UV dye in the system (although if it's empty, you'd probably have to charge it with freon anyways to have it circulate properly...I'm not actually sure about that part). But I've bought cans of R-12 on eBay so I don't think you would have an issue finding that. It glows when you shine UV light on it so that would give you the best idea.

My system had no charge in it when I got it and the compressor looked nasty when it opened it up - and it ended up being useless except for 90% parts because one of the connecting rods for the pistons were so seized I stripped the heads off. So I would say take both of the heads off the compressor and take a look at the pistons if nothing else (if there's no pressure in the system that is). I bought another one from here recently in much better shape and it clearly has compression, because the high side port is taped off and you can see it push the tape out.

Most likely I think you'll need to replace all the hoses on the outside (the ones that aren't metal anyways), I would say the evaporator and the condenser are probably fine, but those are probably too old. I know they make remans for those. TXV is probably alright. R/D like CBody67 said would need to be changed out. New seals.
 
Yes - new RD (Receiver/Dryer), always changed out when work is done on the system.

Only take your original compressor apart if it doesn't want to turn - if it turns and pressure is found (by the gauge) on the pressure line after the compressor, then it's working.

At that point, leak checks, dye checks, etc as noted above. Dye can likely be used in Nitrogen rather than perhaps more expensive R12 or other freons.

Again - a quality AC shop is your friend here.
 
I agree with the quality A/C shop, if the system has a charge in it you will want that recovered. If it's empty I would go to R-134A
 
some parts stores but they r getting high u might be beyy==tr of get aconversion one the rv2 one u have willonly work on freon 12 thn tyere is a poa valve they r not naking them any more & ytheyu very hsrd o fibd
 
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