Matt Conlan
Member
Yeah, we actually did go through the wiring again. The voltage is 10 on either side of the coil, so I think we're good there. Thanks for the info
new distributor
- Thread starter Matt Conlan
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Matt Conlan
Member
Ok! The continuing saga of the 70 Newport. SoI rewired the thing, got a new control unit, set the timing way down (like 15-20 BTDC) and finally got it to start. After fiddling for a while, it settled at about 10 degrees BTDC. No noise coming from the valves, sounded really good. Drove it probably about 30 miles, felt really strong, good acceleration, started right up (starting was always a problem with this one). Only thing at cruising speed, at about 60mph, there'd be a little, intermittent surge in rpm. didn't affect the driving, but I could hear it. So I stopped at a store, and coming back out, it wouldn't start. was getting gas, but wouldn't fire. Eventually, I got it going (no magic, just trying again and again) had to keep foot on the gas to keep it from dying, got it on the highway, and 1/4 mile from my house it starts to stall, RPM keeps getting lower and lower, like in steps, no matter what I do with the throttle, and at the entrance to my driveway it stops completely. I can get it to start, it will run about 5 seconds, sputter and die. My understanding is, if timing is too low it might act like that, but why did it just change? I can't see anything obviously wrong (distributor cap, spark wires, etc). Any ideas where to start?
thethee
Senior Member
Uhm, just throwing it out there but reading those last couple lines, you're not just out of gas are you?
Matt Conlan
Member
Ha! Well, not according to the gauge, but I have done dumber things! I don't think its fuel, that step down in the motor, it wouldn't pick up no matter what I did with the gas really stumps me.
It does sound like a fuel problem.
Bad fuel pump, worn pump rod, low float level, or even bad gas.
Take line apart at the fuel filter, disconnect the coil wire and run a hose from the fuel to a can or a large soda bottle. Crank the engine over and it should have a strong stream of gas. If not, that's a bad pump or worn pump rod (although the pump rod doesn't happen "overnight") or both.
Matt Conlan
Member
I thought it sounded like fuel, too, but I thought that might be too big a coincidence. I just did the timing chain on this motor and put in a new fuel pump. I'll give it a try, though
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Did the timing chain eh? Did you take plenty care with the fuel pump rod when buttoning things up? You MIGHT have an issue there. Do the sanity check stuff first.
Matt Conlan
Member
It’s been running for almost a year since then. I mean everything was running as well as it ever had, then just stopped!
thethee
Senior Member
If there's one thing I've learned from my short time on this site it's that it's best to take the time to check eveything and don't assume parts are good, even if they're new(ish). Simple process of elimination.
In this case, is there fuel in the tank? If yes, is fuel coming out of the pump? If yes, is fuel reaching the carb? If yes, are the float bowls filling up? If yes, is fuel reaching the intake? Does accelerator pump produce fuel shot? Can even try spraying some brake cleaner in the intake to see if it'll run like that. If none of that works you can move on I think.
My next bet would be ignition and having just gone through that myself it can be a real pain. Same method applies, rule out all components till you find the culprit.
Hope this helps
In this case, is there fuel in the tank? If yes, is fuel coming out of the pump? If yes, is fuel reaching the carb? If yes, are the float bowls filling up? If yes, is fuel reaching the intake? Does accelerator pump produce fuel shot? Can even try spraying some brake cleaner in the intake to see if it'll run like that. If none of that works you can move on I think.
My next bet would be ignition and having just gone through that myself it can be a real pain. Same method applies, rule out all components till you find the culprit.
Hope this helps
Matt Conlan
Member
No doubt. It was just so sudden, I thought someone might have some insight
thethee
Senior Member
I'd say check the carb if the pump is good since I think it's fuel related. When you look into the carb can you see a strong shot of fuel if you open the throttle?
Matt Conlan
Member
All right. So it must be the carb. Fuel gets to the carb, but not to the throttle body. It'll start on spray ether for a bit. Serious question before I go further. It's the Holley 2100 2bbl on a 383. I rebuilt it last year. Ran fine for a year. Should I just upgrade rather than try to fix again?
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Such is MY PLAN! Already grabbed a cast iron 4 bbl intake, and am looking into getting one of the new Edelbrock AVS2 carbs. They make one at just 500 cfm, which should be PERFECT for an engine built for 2 barrel performance! With mechanical linkage and choke, you can set this up for better gas mileage than either the Stromberg WWC (mine) or the 2100 Holley. Both of these carbs tend to warp the air-horn over time and frequent heating and cooling cycles. Mine is starting to surge a little too, though vacuum still usually looks close to 17 inches at ~550 rpm, my curb idle. I HOPE to change intake and carb along with cylinder heads, and probably cam, lifters, pushrods. IF everything else is good on your engine, you can do the intake and carb without the other stuff.
Matt Conlan
Member
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I had some backfires when I was working on the timing, too. A lot of people on this site go with the Edelbrock 600 cfm 1406 carb and the aluminum manifolds. Did you consider those?
thethee
Senior Member
Sounds like you found the cause, nice. Unfortunately can't really help you with your carb choice as I only know about the thermoquad that's on my 440.
I personally would just open the holley and see if you find some obvious fault, some sort of blockage maybe. Gives you something to do while waiting on that edelbrock
Matt Conlan
Member
I Like your thinking! Thanks for the help.
Matt Conlan
Member
Got the carb off, and I can't see anything wrong. Plenty of fuel in bowl, the float was set, the accelerator pump was good, jets we're unplugged. Gas seemed to be flowing, but I'm going to blow it out with compressed air tomorrow. So strange. It fired immediately and ran for a second or two when I sprayed starting fluid in it.
By chanced you do a tune up recently with new parts from the store?
Matt Conlan
Member
Well, new distributor and coil, new ballast resistor, new fuel filter, new fuel pump and water pump, new timing chain, new PCV, new plug wires, oil change with Amsoil, and NOS Mopar plugs. What you thinking?
Btw, I blew out all the carb passages with compressed air, didn't see anything obvious, but I haven't got it back on the car yet. Storm blew through, and its chainsaw time now.
Btw, I blew out all the carb passages with compressed air, didn't see anything obvious, but I haven't got it back on the car yet. Storm blew through, and its chainsaw time now.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
you've thrown some parts and $$ at this engine. Did you get a modern distributor and coil, or an Old Reliable Breaker Points sort? ELECTRONIC IGNITIONS CAN BE VERY TRICKY!!! Did you get plug wires to match the voltage of the new ignition components? NOS Mopar (read Champion) plugs were meant for old style ignition systems. Now the venerable orange box electronic ignition of 1972-78 plays fine on old copper plugs, but newer stuff does best with...newer stuff!
I HOPE you didn't COMPLICATE the original problem. Experiment with getting it to fire up for a few seconds, then, make that last longer...
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