Picked up a pretty solid 66 Newport about 2 months ago, went through the basics and it came right back to life after 26 years, most everything so far has been simple as can be when it comes to repairs, but I've got a couple of oddball items like the Map light, washer reservoir and a few other little things that I need some information on or replacement sources for, I know they're getting to be pretty hard to find but any information you guys may have helps, anyone willing to send pictures of the pieces that make up the switch for the map light would also be awesome.
New guy recently purchased a 66 Newport 2 Door hardtop, looking for a few good parts sources.
- Thread starter Atony
- Start date
twostick
Senior Member
Murray Park in Ohio is probably the biggest and best source for used Cbody stuff.
Vans Auto should have a new washer tank, but if you are more concerned with driving it than making stuff that doesn't advance that goal look "right" there is acres of space on the rad support to bolt a suitable salvage yard unit on.
Kevin
Vans Auto should have a new washer tank, but if you are more concerned with driving it than making stuff that doesn't advance that goal look "right" there is acres of space on the rad support to bolt a suitable salvage yard unit on.
Kevin
Well I'm fortunate in the fact that the entire underside, front subframe, floors, rad support, and all of the rest of the structure is in fantastic shape minus the one ding in the rear end by the taillight on the passenger side where it was hut with a forklift when someone was moving it forever ago. Has a tweak in the lower side of the front bumper where it was either bumped or pushed into something just hard enough to fold the lower opening in a bit, only place it had any rust was in the fuel tank and I already bought that off vans, fitment was great but I've been fighting a poorly sealing sending unit, just drips slowly when over 3/4 full. Have taken an hour long trip on a 100 degree day doing 60-70 and it did fantastic, need to do the ammeter bypass, and do something to replace the gauge with a voltmeter and the original face, something is wrong with the speedo, where it worked once first time around the block, then what looks like a black rubber band came down in front of the needle and part of the parking brake light, so I'll need to be in the cluster anyway. Was also wondering if anyone had taken the later transmissions like the rh47 and replaced the 727, I'm sure you'd have to build it at least slightly to take the torque, but you'd have .72 overdrive with a lockup converter, maybe put the overdrive and lockup on manual switches in the car, just looking for some more mpg there. Though I understand that's quite a ways to go just in the name of fuel mileage but it also let's me leave the rear gearing alone and retain the low end power, the tag says it's got a 3.73 rear gear in it, so it would be spinning faster than I'd like at interstate speeds anyway, I've looked into doing a dual pot master cylinder swap too, which is one of the higher priority items on the list along with the electric bypass. Will get some better pictures posted tomorrow, but I got damn lucky with this beautiful car, it's a little rough for sure but it doesn't have to be perfect to go down the road or put a smile across my face. Anyway, it'll get an interior and some paint someday, but for now it's preservation and adding a few miles to and from the store as I put the little things back together. When I've got the little things kinda picked away I'll probably go for the big ticket items.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the club! Congrats on your purchase! You’ve already found my build thread so no need to point you there. Something in me wants to see you paint your doors white and put a red police light on the roof! Keep us in the loop as you get each project done.
Will do, I'm sure there's a few things I'll forget to take pictures of or mention, like the carb, rebuild but the stromberg was simple enough.
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Welcome to the site for NYC.. as mentioned! Murray Parks is your man, if he doesn’t have he’ll know where too.
Murray B. Park - Used and NOS Parts for Chrysler, Imperial, Dodge, Desoto, and Plymouth
Murray B. Park - Used and NOS Parts for Chrysler, Imperial, Dodge, Desoto, and Plymouth
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Hey! Welcome aboard. Looks like you have a good solid car. A good foundation from which to build. I have a couple of threads that may be useful as you move forward with your car. "The Saga Begins" and "The Saga Continues.". Ripinator
kowalski1970
Senior Member
Welcome from Virginia!!
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
Welcome from Ontario, Canada and congrats on your purchase! Sounds like your car has good bones. Lots of info here for the projects you want to take on. I can get you pics of the map light switch assembly too.
That would be greatly appreciated, plenty of info on the light itself but nothing for the switch internals because it's technically a replaceable part, and I can get one, but when I have the housing and everything else just doesn't make sense to replace what appears to be fine.
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
Oh. If your map light comes on when you open the door but not when you flip the map light switch, I know the reason. The circuit board is swedged into the chromed metal housing. There is an exposed copper pad on one edge of the circuit board that's supposed to contact the housing and ground-out. That is the ground connection for the switch. Some of them aren't swedged the best and don't make good contact, so the map switch doesn't work. I've tried re-swedging to squash the board against the housing tighter, but that hasn't worked too well for me. Presently I don't have a better solution.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
OOOOH, this is my problem . . . it was working when it was out of the dash and when I screwed it back in it stopped working with the switch. Now I know why! Thank you! Gonna pull it out and re-swedge it and cross my fingers.
My problem is a step worse, the little plate is separated from the housing completely and part of the switch flung itself into the place where all the 10mm sockets go, and I had no clue what it looked like, if I did, I could probably figure out how to make it work again.
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