No hard acceleration - please advise

Ah so the part in question is the ring gear. There is indeed a section in my FSM on how to change that and it looks like it's available on rockauto

I have no idea what kind off torque converter I should get as a replacement or where to get it from but just browsing jegs.com a new TC will be upwards of $500 when you include shipping to the Netherlands. For that kind of money I'm inclined to attempt a ring gear change.
 
You should be able to find a cheaper stock replacement. I know shipping kills it for you guys.

Keep in mind, you are pulling the trans to do this. If you don't get it right, the trans has to come back out.
 
I don't know what to look for in a torque converter, or where for that matter. Splines, bolt pattern, stall speed, etc, no clue. But at least I'll have some time to figure all that out since, either way, the trans has got to come out and that'll take some time. Will probably be easier to decide what to do if I have the old torque converter on the bench and take a good look at it.

By the way, it's not only shipping that kills, also the 21% import tax rate for goods from outside of the EU. :BangHead:
 
I have confirmed that my acceleration issues are because of junk in the fuel tank. Difference in fuel output of the pump when it was hooked up to the tank compared to when it was hooked up to a jerrycan was massive! So I will drop the tank and remove the sending unit for inspection. Maybe I'll even get my fuel gauge to work again, who knows.

Couple questions:
How should I flush the tank, just vinegar and gravel?
Any recommended fuel tank treatment after flushing?
Are sending units for a '75 imperial still available somewhere, or even just the sock at the base?
Do you need the lock ring tool or will it work with a flathead screwdriver and hammer?

Thanks in advance!
 
if you have a radiator repair shop near you that can boil it out, that is probably the best way. use a brass punch on the lock ring. you don't want any sparks!
 
Last update that got lost with the site crash:

Ended up replacing just the ring gear on the torque converter. The procedure is described pretty good in the FSM. Ground off the welds that held on the old ring gear and it came right off and was able to confirm that the one I ordered from rockauto was in fact the right one. Put the new one in the oven so expand it a little and it went on fairly easily. Did my best to align it on the torque converter and used the old welds as a guide for the new ones. Finished up with some new paint.
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After I checked all the fuel lines for obstructions which were all clear so I pulled the fuel tank. Removed the sending unit with a screwdriver and hammer, worked fine. As far as I could see the tank itself was pretty clean, no real rust on the inside. But I flushed it anyway. The problem was clearly with my sending unit. Both the sock filter and the float had come apart and disintegrated, blocking the fuel line. Also explains why the fuel gauge wasn't working.
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Another mystery solved, thanks guys!
 
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