Oil type

I'm running Royal Purple HPS 20-50 (it's always hot down here). It's cheaper ($7.99) down here than most of the alternatives and the local speed shop keeps it in stock.
 
Last edited:
CBODY67 said:
Knowing how 20W-50 absorbs horsepower, I'd go with either 10W-30 or 10W-40. With the other oil, the engine had a high rpm surge I couldn't get rid of. With the Castrol, no surge. The B/RB engines were known to have "spark scatter" from non-uniform flow into the oil pickup screen, which caused the oil pump drive to flex and change the ignition timing. Obviously, the Castrol flowed better
Click to expand...
You must have a sensitive *** to notice that HP drop.:poke:
You can help that distributor jump with a set screwed 1/2" shaft collar keeps the dizzy and drive in vertical alignment.
 
Been using SAE 30 High Performance Oil for 10+ years in the Imperial and R/T.

Brad Penn.jpg
 
I have been running Pennzoil 30wt with a bottle of STP in my 300J and Desoto for several years now. The STP adds enough zinc to satisfy the needs of the camshaft and both are readily available nearly everywhere.
 
I've been using the Quaker State Defy 10-30 synthetic blend. It was renamed Defy High Mileage, and now appears to be renamed as High Mileage. It also has added Zinc.

defy.jpg


defy2.jpeg
 
1091_1460969741698_ctx-1.jpg


You can leave that in for 15k miles or so no problem. Way better than the cheapo salad dressing they pour in at the iffy lube places.
 
Standard oils for me, depending on car, are VR1, Quaker State Defy and Chevron Delo.

When I got the Dodge and took off the valve covers I knew the engine was sludged. I had used Pennzoil Platinum Plus in the 91 Mazda 626 with noisy HLAs you could hear half a block away. Put the PPP in, drove an hour on the freeway rather than try to remove and clean each HLA, and the noise disappeared. That was six years ago. Just used the car today, after finding a NOS distributor, and at a stop the engine is amazingly quiet and smooth for being 26 years old. Consequently I used the same oil in the Dodge for it's very first oil change and took out dark black oil at 500 miles.
 
A topic like this brings back some old days.

I had the early sixties Chevy two-ton truck for a while that ran just fine. I decided to change the oil shortly after getting it and when pulling the drain plug nothing came out.
I poked a stick in to get it to drain.--EEK--

I also recall where a customer brought their 57 (I think) New Yorker in for service.
The oil pan was removed for the --FIRST-- oil change in 70,000miles. The pan was full of a grease like substance.--(the car ran just fine and was in for other issues).

I do like the peace of mind knowing I have the proper oil in my car and am as anal as most folks about this.
My issue today is a car (My 69 hemi coronet rt). I got it running (rebuilt engine) several years ago and the car has less than 100 miles on it.
I feel the need to change the oil because time has gone by? I will do so soon and chose an oil that is compatible with my engine.

For many of us old folks with old cars -that have old oil. I would like to hear about aging oil and how it plays on our minds.
 
I would like some scientific research on how the oil deteriorates within a year, even if the vehicle isn't driven. I change oils once a year regardless of mileage (usually under 5000) and am wondering if the oils would actually good for longer.
 
I don't believe oil deteriorates just sitting in your car. The issue is probably more of contamination with water vapor. Many who have cars being talked about may drive only a few hundred miles a year. If those miles are surface streets then the oil may never get hot enough to burn off the water. When I drive my cars it is never surface streets. They always go out on the freeway for a 45 minute drive before heading home at a minimum.
 
The QS Defy oil has been through several changes (marketing and content) since its first introduction. The first virgin oil analysis posted on Bobistheoilguy didn't indicate the same level of zddp that many perceived. It might have had "boosted levels", but the resultant levels were no where as high as Rotella T 15W-40, at the time. Not sure if it's currently near the 1000ppm level. BUT there are other parts of the additive pack which do the same thing as zddp, without them being zddp. Be that as it may.

I've got an old NOS quart of Arco Graphite motor oil, from the middle 1970s. it starts BLACK due to the graphite in the oil. There used to be a motor oil from Louisiana under the brand name of "Long" which had (maybe?) 30% "Moly" in it. The main selling point was the moly in the oil, but never could find out how strong the base oil was.

As for my "sensitive" seat-of-the-pants . . . when I got the engine swapped in one of my cars, I told the mechanic to put the oil in it he was comfortable with, which turned out to be Valvoline 30. I ran that until about 6K miles, then changed it to Castrol 20W-50, which is what I used on the first engine, from the start. After that oil change, I noticed an immediate drop in crispness of throttle response. Not major, but enough for me to notice. I ran it a few weeks to make sure I wasn't imagining things, then changed it for Castrol 10W-40, and "the edge" came back to very similar levels as with the 30 Valvoline. Later changed to Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic, for the zddp levels and the fact it was synthetic.

Whatever works . . .

CBODY67
 
Knebel said:
I would like some scientific research on how the oil deteriorates within a year, even if the vehicle isn't driven. I change oils once a year regardless of mileage (usually under 5000) and am wondering if the oils would actually good for longer.
Click to expand...
I don't have scientific data. A lot of the large trucking companies only change the oil in their trucks when the oil sample comes back above a certain level. For example driver hits 10,000 miles on oil pulls into a Speedco (like a quick lube for big trucks) they sample the oil soon as it pulls in and ready and install a new filter. If the sample comes back bad( above predetermined levels) the oil gets changed if it is ok then they top it up to full and away the driver goes. So companies would change it regardless of sample at let's say 30,000 others as long as it was good carry on. I would imagine they are changing it more often now due to the new emissions on diesel engines( the dirt has to go somewhere if not out exhaust). Our old cars the worst contamination is water vapor and gasoline. The gasoline just dilutes the oil, the water vapor mixed with combustion soot and byproducts makes acid that is corrosive to bearings.
 
twostick said:
Check Bob is the Oil Guy for analysis reports for Super Tech. Their 15/40 has as good or better numbers than some name brands.

Kevin
Click to expand...
And that's why I split off from the rest of the herd of sheep and refuse to fall under the spell of Fake News marketing.

No. That's not it. I'm a cheap bastard.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

live4theking
Converting from RV-2 to Sanden
3 4 5
Replies
93
Views
31K
Ross Wooldridge
Ross Wooldridge
Homerr
  • Locked
For Sale 1969 Town & Country - CA
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
Homerr
Homerr
Back
Top