'Ol Bess's Starter (I think)

Not yet but I am thinking about it. The wiring on my car is in such beautiful original condition that I hate to mess with it but I also know that it's over 50 years old...
Exactly. I understand you can get LED sealed beam replacement headlights, but they are still WAY too expensive, for me anyway. I think I will switch my exterior bulbs out, though, and be mindful of the a/c/headlights/wipers combo...
 
The headlights on my '67 are surprisingly bright and so are the tail lights for that matter. The worst problem that I've had repeatedly over the past several years electrically would be the tilt/tell turn signal switch but I think I finally have that one solved for the long haul. My Imp is also a non ac car so I have none of that to deal with thankfully.

IMG_2283.JPG
 
Last edited:
The headlights on my '67 are surprisingly bright and so are the tail lights for that matter. The worst problem that I've had repeatedly over the past several years electrically would be the tilt/tell turn signal switch but I think I finally have that one solved for the long haul. My Imp is also a non ac car so I have none of that to deal with thankfully.
So what do you think caused your headlights to blink off on you that one time?
 
Mick, you need to see if later model Imperial disc brake setups will bolt into your car, either by swapping the spindles or bolting the disc system to your existing spindles. We have that luxury with our C bodies, where 69 - 73 stuff interchanges nicely with 65-68 cars. I don't know whether Imperial setups do a similar thing or not.

Check on the Imperial Club website for answers.
 
Yep, you got some bright ones back there. Okay, so even without the a/c load the system still isn't up to the task...
 
Well let me say that I think the system is very much up for the task if everything has remained in good original condition. Is it the best system even for it's time?, probably not but also remember that these cars weren't engineered to still be on the road 40 + years later so...

This pic is for Ross.
IMG_2703.JPG
 
This is from a '68 but it's basically the same as mine. I can get pics of the guts later this afternoon when I get to the shop.
IMG_2704.JPG
 
For the front headlights I would put them on relays, much cheaper then LED headlights. Saves having all the power run through the bulkhead and switch. This is a very common, and necessary upgrade for the 89-93 1st Gen cummins trucks.

For the 4 headlight system you might need 3 relays, but you can make it so you don't cut into any original wiring, just jump off the headlight sockets as the triggers for the relays. Just do a google search for 4 lamp headlight wiring diagrams...should find what you need.
 
This long tube Ross.
IMG_20170507_114409727.jpg
 
I have found that when all my lights go out when I put the high beam on has been traced to the headlight switch in the past. After many years it simply can't handle the amps anymore. I replaced the headlight switch and it was good again. If you don't want to replace the switch, then yes relays will solve the problem too.
 
Hey Matt - as we hijack this thread - I can't post pics in "conversations" for whatever reason, so here are a couple of pics showing the cable tube and its' locating nub in the slot in the servo housing.

Autopilot 5.jpg
Autopilot 1.jpg


For the sake of others reading this thread and dealing with removing and reinstalling the Autopilot dash dial cable as it goes into the servo units:

The tube the cable goes into needs to be removed from the servo housing and can be a bit of a beeyotch.

The tube is a press fit with a little locating nub into the servo body, and often corrodes in place since the servo is white metal and the tube is cad plated steel - dissimilar metals reaction dontchya know. Anyhow, it needs to be twisted out of the body of the servo to expose the internal part that the ball end of the cable sits in. When you turn the cable it pulls or pushes on that internal part and slides back and forth inside that tube... On my servo you can see a channel that the nub locks into.

Use a strong pair of long handled roundmouth pliers - wrap a cloth around the tube if you're concerned about marking it (I just polished mine up afterwards before reinstalling it) twist left and it should come out.

Slide it down the cable to expose the ball... installation is in the reverse. Like heat shrink tubing and wiring, you need to put the tube over the cable before you reinstall!! :BangHead:

On the picture of detmatt's servo, I see a screw tucked away at the base of the tube - I can't tell if that's to hold the tube in (an improvement over the locating nub version), or if that's to do with the servo motor behind it.
 
Last edited:
Thank you kindly!
 
Back
Top