part numbers for heat/AC vacuum switch?

I found that the actuators diaphragms developed a leak in more than one way: I had one that had a loose seal to the rod that passed through it and another had a loose diaphragm (or tear-I don’t remember) around the edge of it.

I recommend that you check the electrical function of the switch before you dig into the diaphragms.

I remember verifying the compressor operation before tackling the actuators.
Any Idea where to get the right numbers to know what Ohms to measure on the switch?
 
Any Idea where to get the right numbers to know what Ohms to measure on the switch?
Follow the schematic. This is for a 1968, but I believe that it is the same:

IMG_5622.jpeg
 
I really can´t tell if I hear anything. I´d say NO but I never put my ear next to it when pushing the buttons with engine running. But I will chase the problem down hoping the switch is doing alright. I am actually not sure yet If I keep the NOS switch because I am not sure if I want my blower be on all the time....kinda noisy...
First thing I had to do in this project was replace my blower motor.....that thing was locked up. So apparently, my original control switch did not power the blower in the "OFF" mode or I would have the current drain. The fuse was not blown nor was the motor showing signs of having been hot....but it would barely turn by hand. The "new" switch keeps the blower powered in all modes incliuding "OFF".
 
Any Idea where to get the right numbers to know what Ohms to measure on the switch?
If your switch is working properly, when you ohm it out it will read either zero or nothing depending on the position of each button if the switch is open or closed. I think your switch is fine. You just need to get vacuum to it. Once you get the vacuum working, it will be easy to hear the heater box doors opening and closing when you push the buttons.
 
If your switch is working properly, when you ohm it out it will read either zero or nothing depending on the position of each button if the switch is open or closed. I think your switch is fine. You just need to get vacuum to it. Once you get the vacuum working, it will be easy to hear the heater box doors opening and closing when you push the buttons.
Let’s imagine everything works fine I still don’t know if I like this kind of switch where m blower motor is running all the time . Like the quietness and just the engine roaring instead of windy noise inside :/
 
Let’s imagine everything works fine I still don’t know if I like this kind of switch where m blower motor is running all the time . Like the quietness and just the engine roaring instead of windy noise inside :/
You shouldn't be able to hear it run on low speed with the engine running. If your blower motor is noisy that is a different problem or if it runs at high speed all the time then your resistor could be the problem. I still think your lack of vacuum is the issue. Fix that first and foremost.
 
Gents. The vacuum doesn’t do anything but direct the air and set the temperature of the air.

The ac compressor is purely electrical.

Look at the drawings in the FSM as well as the slideshow that I referenced.

It appears that the switch that you both have is not the correct one.

I bought one from Jegs that would turn off the compressor when the mode was off. I believe that I referenced it in my previous comment.

Remember rule number two - no flailing!
 
Gents. The vacuum doesn’t do anything but direct the air and set the temperature of the air.

The ac compressor is purely electrical.

Look at the drawings in the FSM as well as the slideshow that I referenced.

It appears that the switch that you both have is not the correct one.

I bought one from Jegs that would turn off the compressor when the mode was off. I believe that I referenced it in my previous comment.

Remember rule number two - no flailing!
I can remember you said that. I just don´t want to accept that I wasted 100$.... :D So before buying a the one from jegs also I wanna check the vacuum and make the doors and actuators work, because that should be possible with my wrong switch also right? And after I can decide when to get the right switch to be able to turn off the blower motor
 
I can remember you said that. I just don´t want to accept that I wasted 100$.... :D So before buying a the one from jegs also I wanna check the vacuum and make the doors and actuators work, because that should be possible with my wrong switch also right? And after I can decide when to get the right switch to be able to turn off the blower motor
I too thought that I could get away with rebuilding the switch, but it wasn’t successful. I too had to learn how the actuators worked to finish the job.
Keep us updated on your progress!
 
You know what? I bought mine 3months ago and just wrote the seller and told him the problem that his switch does not replace all the switches as he advertised. I kindly asked hin if i could give it back because of his wrong description. I didn´t activate ebay help yet as I hope we (seller and I) will find a compromise.
 
I bought an NOS vacuum switch on eBay, part #3431020...for my '70 Suburban non-ATC wagon. The vacuum part now works great, but the AC compressor and blower motor stay on all the time regardless of what mode button is depressed. I've heard that Chrysler did that on purpose in some later years, but my original switch didn't do that and I don't want that. The part number stamped on the NOS switch is the same number as the original one I replaced though..so I'm not sure whether the new switch is defective or what....Has anyone had this switch fail in this mode?
I know there are a variety of part numbers that these switches supposedly interchange with, but I never see any mention of which ones keep the blower and compressor energized and which ones don't. I could put an external switch in for the compressor, but I really want to keep everything "stock".
Anyone been down this road?
u need a copy of the factory parts book u can try ebay or a reprint co like Bishko Automobile Liturature available for 1968, Dodge, Parts Book
Bishko Automobile Liturature available for 1970, Plymouth, Parts Book never go by what someonre is seklling with the right part # try parts voice
 
had the same vacuum switch. its made to power the compressor in off position. i opened it up and removed the contacts behind the off button. problem solved
 
had the same vacuum switch. its made to power the compressor in off position. i opened it up and removed the contacts behind the off button. problem solved
I LOVE these self made solution! Didint you mess it up by opening that it wont hold the vacuum anymore ? How did you open and put it back together isn´t it glued or something?
 
I LOVE these self made solution! Didint you mess it up by opening that it wont hold the vacuum anymore ? How did you open and put it back together isn´t it glued or something?
Yes, you will need to open the mode control switch to do this. The enclosure is bonded together (melted plastic studs).

If you look back at my references, you’ll find a link that @Big_John had provided that shows how to split the enclosure and put it back together by tapping holes and with #4 (I believe) screws.
 
Yes, you will need to open the mode control switch to do this. The enclosure is bonded together (melted plastic studs).

If you look back at my references, you’ll find a link that @Big_John had provided that shows how to split the enclosure and put it back together by tapping holes and with #4 (I believe) screws.
Sounds absolutely doable if taking some time and passion. I do have to decide between fixing it myself or ship it back to seller on my dime (whats totally fair because of purchase more than 100 days away) and getting my money back.....
 
Sounds absolutely doable if taking some time and passion. I do have to decide between fixing it myself or ship it back to seller on my dime (whats totally fair because of purchase more than 100 days away) and getting my money back.....
I tried to fix one and gave up because I found the item that you know about on Jegs.
My time is worth more than the effort.
 
the only solution is to break off the contact from the off switch or just pull the off switch button when your not using the system. pulling the off button will break the contact to the compressor
switch.jpg
 
I bought an NOS vacuum switch on eBay, part #3431020...for my '70 Suburban non-ATC wagon. The vacuum part now works great, but the AC compressor and blower motor stay on all the time regardless of what mode button is depressed. I've heard that Chrysler did that on purpose in some later years, but my original switch didn't do that and I don't want that. The part number stamped on the NOS switch is the same number as the original one I replaced though..so I'm not sure whether the new switch is defective or what....Has anyone had this switch fail in this mode?
I know there are a variety of part numbers that these switches supposedly interchange with, but I never see any mention of which ones keep the blower and compressor energized and which ones don't. I could put an external switch in for the compressor, but I really want to keep everything "stock".
Anyone been down this road?
the only solution is to break off the contact from the off switch or just pull the off switch button when your not using the system. pulling the off button will break the contact to the compressor
switch.jpg
 
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