commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Never go to Jiffy Lube.
pertronix electronic ignition installation? (66 fury vip)
- Thread starter DarkwingFury
- Start date
440Sled
Well-Known Member
My ballast resistor, 68 New Yorker
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
That is what I was thinking. The III is basically overkill for a street car (low rpm) like ours.
DarkwingFury
Member
I exchanged it for the pertronix 2 so now al i have to do islocate and bypass ballast resistor i think
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
If you have a stock/factory COIL you need the ballast.
Simple as that!
Alan
Simple as that!
Alan
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I wanted to elaborate on this but didn't want to dilute the impact of the previous statement.
There are two different ballasts that were used the single and the double.
Up to about 1972 the single was used as there was no electronic ignition and the ballast was solely used to protect the COIL with a lower voltage.
When they added electronic ignition to the cars they changed over to the double, one side was to protect the coil and the other side was used to lower the voltage for the ignition module.
On the earlier cars with the single style when you add electronic ignition you do not need to add a ballast or change the ballast to a double but you do need to KEEP the existing ballast (assuming that you are keeping the factory/stock coil).
On later cars if you are switching to a different style ignition from the factory module you would still need a ballast if you are using a factory/stock coil.
All new electronic ignition boxes weather factory style, drop-in style or other are internally regulated and do not need a ballast.
Even the replacement modules for the factory style do not need the dual ballast and simply ignore that wire internally.
The drop-in style (Pertonix, Mallory etc.) were designed to be plug-n-play and need no additional changes. Often these kits will come with a ballast or show one on a diagram but this was intended for the hotrod world that may not be working with an existing system.
Alan
There are two different ballasts that were used the single and the double.
Up to about 1972 the single was used as there was no electronic ignition and the ballast was solely used to protect the COIL with a lower voltage.
When they added electronic ignition to the cars they changed over to the double, one side was to protect the coil and the other side was used to lower the voltage for the ignition module.
On the earlier cars with the single style when you add electronic ignition you do not need to add a ballast or change the ballast to a double but you do need to KEEP the existing ballast (assuming that you are keeping the factory/stock coil).
On later cars if you are switching to a different style ignition from the factory module you would still need a ballast if you are using a factory/stock coil.
All new electronic ignition boxes weather factory style, drop-in style or other are internally regulated and do not need a ballast.
Even the replacement modules for the factory style do not need the dual ballast and simply ignore that wire internally.
The drop-in style (Pertonix, Mallory etc.) were designed to be plug-n-play and need no additional changes. Often these kits will come with a ballast or show one on a diagram but this was intended for the hotrod world that may not be working with an existing system.
Alan
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
Should note that the Pertronix I was designed to work with the stock coil and the typically supplied ignition voltage. However, the Pertronix II was designed for a full 12V otherwise it may or may not operate correctly. Their website truly does suck when it comes to clearly getting this across to people. They tend to use their old generic diagram from before the II and III. I have the I in two cars and the II in three cars. Why? Well in three cars it was easier to either get at the resistor wire (Ford) or the dual ballast (Mopar).
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Again the ballast has nothing to do with the Ignition Module or Pertronix unit, it just needs a full 12 volts (often tapped in on the high side of the ballast). Leave the ballast alone and hooked up as it was.
Alan
Alan
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
All I could see was that none of the wires gave me 12V out so I tapped into the 12V in before the ballast. The ballast sits there. Forgot to mention I use the Pertronix coil also. Been this way since 2010.
DarkwingFury
Member
I used the hotter coil that came with the pertronix 2 kit. As of right now hotter coil is in ballast unaltered and electronic ignition is sitting in box in trunk cuz i cant figure out why motor will not crank with it on . So im doing other crap until i can have an experienced person look at it as i have no idea wtf im doIng
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For starters lose or alter the resistor, you don't need it with the new coil.
300cruiser
Active Member
I have Ignitor II and Flame Thrower coil, runs same with or without ballast. Since the resistor could fail (open) likely best to bypass.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
300cruiser, I have a Igniter II and Flame Thrower Coil that I've yet to install simply because I'm not 100% sure of the RED wire connection. What did you connect the RED wire from the igniter to? The instructions (figure-3) seems to indicate somewhere before the ballast resister? From the same figure-3 it looks like one side of the ballast is connected to the (+) side of the coil AND the other side of the ballast is where RED wire is connected to. Would that be the incoming (+12VDC) line to the coil? I'm confused......
68plymouth383
Senior Member
You connect the red wire from the pertronix to the positive on the coil.
300cruiser
Active Member
I connected directly to +/- on coil. Other than a small issue with passing pre-terminated terminals through the side of the dizzy everything went smooth and started up instantly.
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