Pertti's 1970 Imperial Lebaron

[Pertti K]

Very Nice! I have a couple of videos of what I have done to my 69 Imperial on here if you have some time to kill at some point.
Unfortunately, mine had been sitting for quite a while and was not in the condition yours is. However, I am in the process of making the needed improvements and hopefully I will have it back on the road soon! Enjoy that fine piece of automotive history.

Yes, please share the videos, thank you!

And also if there are threads on 4th gen Imperials, please give me a hint, haven't spotted any yet. Might find some useful tips.

 

[MacLebaron]

Yes, please share the videos, thank you!

And also if there are threads on 4th gen Imperials, please give me a hint, haven't spotted any yet. Might find some useful tips.

Here is the link to the first video:


Link to second video:


Hope you enjoy!

 

[Pertti K]

Nice ride! Before doing anything else check out a electrical connector in a firewall

This was an excellent tip, thanks! At least key warning buzzer, key light, map light, trunk light and dome lights started working just by cleaning the firewall connectors! And maybe something else as well, which I have not yet noticed. But the gauge lights still didn't. I sprayed as much lubricating contact cleaner as possible without taking the switch apart and rolled the adjustment back and forth multiple times. After this I got very weak light, so you can barely notice it. I may repeat this, at least if I need to take dismantle the dash for some other reason and have better access to the switch. Are there LED replacement bulbs that work in gauge lightning?

Next issue i tried to solve was the hazard flasher, it doesn't work. When the switch is on, and I press the brake pedal, the front turn signals light up. Sounds a bit like grounding issue to me. But I haven't been able to locate the flasher relay, where should it be? I found the turn signal and key light relays close to the hood opening handle. But anyway, after the good experience of cleaning the bulkhead connectors I started cleaning and lubricating all the electrical connectors and ground points that I can get my hands on without dismantling anything. The connectors inside the car seem to be ok, but the ones in engine compartment not so. After that I'll check if any of the faults have left the vehicle.

Last week I received some more documentation for the car, almost all from the period of 2nd ownership. The only info that I have about the 1st ownership is that the car was sold as new on Nov 18, 1969 in Winnipeg by Penner Dodge Chrysler Ltd to Victoria Park Development Ltd. It was delivered to the owner on Nov 26 at 10:00 AM local time.

Second owner bought it in 1976 with 1.500 (presumably Canadian) dollars, odometer reading 75.930 ml. The 2nd owner has kept a very detailed record of any maintenance done to the car. For example 30 oil changes, in average after 1000 mls and 14 mths. Paint job in 1979 for 600 dollars. 9 mentions of "tune up", rebuilt carb" or "new carb". The "new" rubber that presumably is still under the car with almost no wear (but lots of tear) was purchased in 1996. "New brakes - everything" in 1982 with 93 kml. It now has 104 kml, so it's no wonder the breakes were in very good condition -something that can't be said about the brake fluid though, lots of rusty junk in the reservoir. There's also couple of photos from 1977 with comment Kildonan Drive Winnipeg. Quite cool

The last record is from July 2nd 2006 with 104.623 ml. The car was sold to the 3rd owner in 2012 and has now the reading of 104.756 ml - so 133 miles in 14 years if the odometer is working! I guess it has been sitting a bit longer than I thought! No wonder that it has so much small issues - but a small miracle that nothing is seized.

And for my Finnish speaking audience there is more (you need to sign in to be able to see the photos and to enter the first showroom link):
Kirjaudu
Pertin Kotkotukset - Sivu 13

 

[Georg/BBTR]

Congrats, @Pertti K! Your Imperial looks great, diggin' the gold colored interior! Have fun with getting it ready for summer. You'll enjoy every mile in it. These cars are so comfy!

 

[Pertti K]

Some progress update. Took it for the first ride today! Temperature in 10ish F, so not too slippery, but the 25 years young M+S tires are not the best ones to go with. Other than the mild traction issues everything seems to work just fine. I had to take apart the acceleration pump, as it was not working (apparently the needle was stuck) and I didn't have the rebuild kit for the carburetor (it's on its way) so it's now leaking a bit. Need to put in the rebuild kit before any more driving. But after that it's ready for registration!

The heater blower seems to work properly only in the Def. position. And not necessarily in that either, you need to select a certain position just before going to the Def position, otherwise you'll just hear a hissing noise and nothing happens. Any ideas how to start looking into the automatic heater / AC system? I'm quite sure the AC don't work either, everything is in place but it has been unplugged.

 

[CBODY67]

Nice progress! The instrument panel lighting is from the front, not the rear. Under the lip of the instrument panel pad is where the lights are located. Between them, pretty much right above the steering column is ONE Phillips-head screw which screws into a metal strip, which is the ground for those 194 bulbs that light up the instrument panel. Make sure it's tight and the connection clean. I discovered that screw when trying to find out why the IP lights on our '72 Newport would go out and come back on when hitting a bump, one night. Tightened the screw and all was well again.

Nice car! Keep us posted on your progress, please.
CBODY67

 

[MacLebaron]

Very nice, glad to see you making such good progress!

 

[Pertti K]

Yesterday I started tackling the issues on my dirver's door. I thought the mirror's adjusting cables were just stuck but it seems that the whole system is beyond it's life span - 2 of 3 cables are unttached. Is there any way to fix this? Should the mirror glass come out of the bezel in one piece? Then I might be able to reattach the cables. Or where to get a new one, the whole mirror or just the cable and glass assy?

I think I'll place a parts wanted ad, as I do need some other stuff as well.

 

[Pertti K]

None of my power vents work, so I took out the motor/gear unit. The motor was stuck but started working after soaking with lubricating contact cleaner, probably just lack of use. But the gear was petty bad. I noticed there are new ones available, but I already filled the worn out teeth with chemical metal. They were not only worn but bent as well so I didn't want to fill them too much to avoid sticking. Not exactly a beauty but I believe this will buy some more time for the vent, probably years of light duty use.

While at it, also took a new background photo for my mobile.

 

[HWYCRZR]

The mirror may be beyond salvage. But you can try re-setting the balls in the back of the mirror and try closing them in. Maybe with your metal filler. The cables may need to move in the socket a little so don’t epoxy them too tight. It is worth a try before finding a new mirror.

 

[Pertti K]

I managed to repair the driver's side mirror remote. I pushed the two balls that had come through the mirror aluminium back plate back in their place and tried to mold the aluminium back to shape as good as I could. Then I "glued" small washers on top of them with the chemical metal (thanks for the tip, HWYCRZR!). At least it works now, time will tell if it'll last.

Assembled the vent window motor with fresh moly grease. The door lock solenoid had broke both of it's ground wires at the ends of the solenoid. Works now after fixing them.

I also tried to adjust the glass to fit more tightly against the weather stripping on the door opening side. Not 100% pleased even when I used all the adjustment there was. Door sits nice and the weather stripping is in good shape. Had the same problem and even worse on RH rear door, not enough adjustment to make the top of the glass fit tightly. Any suggestions how to tackle this?

But now everyhting works: https://photos.app.goo.gl/cK5tTPoFb7Myym3N7

 

[Pertti K]

Did some encoding

Can someone decode the H15 and what does Medium in YM43 mean? Thanks.

 

[detmatt]

H15 is rear seat heater & defogger and medium is the price class.

 

[70NEWYORKER]

H-15 is Rear Seat Heater code for 1970 Chrysler, most likely same for Imperial.

 

[Pertti K]

Just put some 300 miles on the odometer - more than in previous 15 years. Nice spring weather. Problems: none.

 

[Pertti K]

Maybe some updates. ^That previous photo was taken when I was on my way to show the car to my friend @furyfinn, who unfortunately passed away in last December. He spotted the car for me and helped me to get it imported to Finland so I'm happy that I took the trip to show it to him. Here's a photo him driving and me testing the management area:

 

[Pertti K]

Soon after the trip the problems started. Which is no wonder considering I started driving the car after 15 years of standing still. On my way to register the car it lost blinkers in the last junction (started working as I restarted the car). When the paper work was done we jumped in the car with the office manager to drive it in for inspection. Wouldn't start. After couple of hours and many breath taking moments I managed to get the car running enough to get me home with fresh Finnish plates (I've blurred them to hide my and car's identity). The standard plates are big and ugly but some registration offices still have a stash of old 5-digit plates which fit into the space that old American made cars have, you just need to know which one does have them... ;-)

 

[Pertti K]

The problems, they started to pile up in the spring time and during the summer. Some that I can remember:
- The starting problem turned out to be a faulty ignition switch, it cut off the ignition in "start"
- Those blinkers
- Draining battery
- Faulty transmission
- Leaky carburetor
- Leaking radiator
- Rear diff having some unhealthy noises
- Moldy interior maybe being the last drop. I could get the visible mold off but the smell remained. It didn't bother me and some of my fellow gearheads said that this is how old cars are supposed to smell. But my wife was not able to sit in the car more than 5 minutes.

So to have something to cruise I bought a mint(ish) '69 Coupe DeVille and let the dust settle for a while. Also started to look for a better Fuselage and put the Imperial up for sale.

But the problems started to unravel one by one. Draining battery was just a dome light left on, faulty transmission was missing 3 quarts of oil after oil change in a workshop and so on... So in fact I could enjoy two competitor land yachts during most of the summer. One being a bit smelly though. I took the Imperial out off sale and decided to see which one I want to let go later on.

Towards the end of summer I drove the Imperial more and more and less the Cadillac. Even though the Caddy is cleaner, smoother, quieter and less smelly, somehow I liked the Imperial better. There are some characteristics that I can put my finger on, like better handling, awesome Fuselage styling, golden leather interior, 4DHT body which is probably my favorite of all body stylers. And yet there's more. Maybe it's the bonding between us during the long wait during the transportation from US, cleaning and checking the car during the winter, first drives in 15 years, ups and downs with the problems mentioned above... So I guess it has become a family member. That's something you don't achieve with a car that you buy as a ready cruiser, or at least it takes years and years. And in turn the problems started to pile up with the Cadillac, but that's another story.

So in the end I put the Caddy up for sale and decided to keep the Imperial. I'm not sure if I did mention to Mika (Furyfinn) how much I turned out to like the car after all, I hope I did...

 

[saforwardlook]

You are just one example of the reason why I like to sell a lot of my cars to folks in Finland. Every one of you that I have dealt with is fair, honest and hard working plus all of you that I have dealt with love these cars as much as any of us. Most of the ones I have sold many cars to now are farmers who have time in the depths of winter to restore your vehicles and none of you is hesitant to dive into restorations and dealing with the many problems that come up. I attribute a lot of that inherent behavior to having to deal with a lot of troublesome farm equipment that is always breaking down and usually in very cold environments. That makes you tough, smart and competent. You all show an aptitude for restoring these cars with good analytical skills and good judgment. One of my friends has received 5 cars from me that were restoration projects and nearly every one of them is eventually highlighted in one of your classic car publications over there that represent restorations of all makes of collector cars and are absolute show level condition. I love seeing photos of the finished projects that you folks take on heartily. I will soon be shipping another car to the friend of mine who already has 5 of them and that one is a 1971 Charger R/T that needs a full restoration. I know it will be an award show winning restoration when it is done.

Keep up the good work and you have shown me more than I have ever seen regarding the original ATC in the C bodies and make clear some of the issues that make them so unreliable.
Thanks!

 

[ayilar]

Maybe some updates. ^That previous photo was taken when I was on my way to show the car to my friend @furyfinn, who unfortunately passed away in last December. He spotted the car for me and helped me to get it imported to Finland so I'm happy that I took the trip to show it to him. Here's a photo him driving and me testing the management area:

View attachment 526657

(...) I'm not sure if I did mention to Mika (Furyfinn) how much I turned out to like the car after all, I hope I did...

This is the first I have heard of @furyfinn 's untimely demise. He and I used to chat quite a bit about cars on both sides of the Atlantic. Now I understand why he'd been silent for several months. I am very sorry to hear of his passing.