Poll-77 New Yorker Exhaust Decision

[fury fan]

I agree about the chrome tips under the rear bumper, which I see quite a lot and am not a huge fan of. I am not planning on having it be crazy loud, but it currently only has a cat on it right now since the rest of the exhaust rusted off, so I wanted to keep the sound it has now. The cats will likely be located in the middle of the car to give some space after the headers. The pipes will start at 3 inches since that is the size of the header collector and will be reduced to 2.25 inches and have that size for the majority of the pipe.
Thanks,
77newyorker440

Cats will need to be located in approximately the same location (front-rear) as the OEM location. The cat needs the right amount of heat for proper operation, and teh laws probably also specify that OEM location is mandatory (for that reason). Most shops around me in the 80s-90s wouldn't modify anything from cat-forward, and I'm in a relaxed state for emissions testing. Maybe they've slackened on that as these cars are now 'classics'.

2-1/4" rearward (esp the tailpipes) will help a bit to keep sound down. I've never been able to get a near-factory sound with anything of mine with 2-1/2" F-R, regardless of which 'quiet' muffler type I've used. I've come to believe that the tailpipe diameter is a big factor, although I have no data to prove it. (swapping tailpipes would be a royal PITA to do a test)

But mufflerless, 'small" pipes, and dual cats? It will be interesting to see (hear) your result!

 

[SuperDave]

For what it's worth, I did put shorty headers, glass packs and side tips on my 73 Newport, (along with a host of other mods for a muscle car makeover, purists be damned). Word to the wise, if/when driving down gravel roads, , your gonna hear "ting ting ting" as the front wheels spit back small bits of gravel. Fresh asphalt is even worse, now my tips are permanently blemished from the tar bits melted onto them, no amount of scrubbing will restore them without rubbing off the chrome or marring the shiny finish. Can't be helped, that's the price I pay for living out in the sticks. Oh well, it still looks and sounds badass.

Another word to the wise, avoid potholes if you can, side tips can get crushed if the hole is deep enough. just my experience, your mileage may vary, but a few things I've encountered with them. Something for you to ponder as you make your decision.

 

[1978 NYB]

Well, that is what I thought as well. About a week ago, my dad and I decided to take the risk and order these headers, as they fit on a 78 NYB on this site. Here is the link to that NYB: 78 New Yorker Brougham 440 Survivor. The owner of that Formal stated that he owned these headers: Hooker 5113-1HKR Hooker Super Competition Long Tube Headers - Ceramic Coated. So, I went ahead and order those headers.
Here is the interesting part though. As you can see on the site, these headers fit 68-74 C-Bodies, but not anything past 74. I called Holley and asked why, and the service aide stated that the only reason that they would not fit a Formal post-1974 is because of emissions regulations, not because of fitment issues. So I decided to order them and see what happens, and return them if needed. When I received them though, they also came with an instructions list. And as you can see below, the instructions state that they fit formals up to 1977. Of course, it does not include Chrysler, as Chryslers usually are not the market for performance products, but it does state that it fits C-Bodies up to 1977. So, I don't know how this occurred, as the website clearly stops at 1974, but I am very happy about this, as it means that it likely fits my car. Since your NYB is a 78, I know that these would fit as the link above shows these headers already on a 78.
Hope this helps!
77newyorker440

View attachment 452304

So.....it's been 2 months.

Did you get the headers on???

 

[77newyorker440]

So.....it's been 2 months.

Did you get the headers on???

Well, I got a call from my mechanic yesterday, and he got them in! The exhaust was fabricated today (going out the back), and I should be able to pick it up tomorrow. Within the next week I will have pictures and more info about it, but they are installed! Big win for the Formal community!

 

[Big Tuna]

You said you received headers in the mail? I'm wondering what car are the headers for because no one makes headers for a Formal.

I just kept stock exhaust manifolds, Flowmaster 40's and duals out the rear on my 78 NYB.

View attachment 452087

Hooker 5113 are for Formals.

 

[Big Tuna]

Might as well put up a set of stacks with rain flappers.
Just as bad.

LOL!!!

 

[1978 NYB]

Hooker 5113 are for Formals.

Says they won't fit.....

 

[Boydsdodge]

Why did you not get the TTI long tube and complete system? No guessing on easy install, can be installed with car on jack stands.
I have installed many TTI systems on my back. 4 hours usually.

 

[Boydsdodge]

I realize I am late to the party, but here is a link to RIC0000's video doing a TTI install on C-body, incase it helps anyone.

 

[patrick66]

Why did you not get the TTI long tube and complete system? No guessing on easy install, can be installed with car on jack stands.
I have installed many TTI systems on my back. 4 hours usually.

View attachment 478763

View attachment 478764

Love those Minilites on that Challenger! A very attractive wheel choice. I've been looking at a complete TTI set-up for my Coronet. What mufflers do you have? My current system was installed on the Coronet back in 1993. It's nearly 30 years old and sounds fantastic. I don't want the replacement to make it sound like a damned metric Challenger or Mustang, that's for certain!

 

[Boydsdodge]

I use the the Walker dynomax that come with the TTI kit, sounds right to me. On a C I would add resonators at the rear before turn down tips.
I probably would not go headers but this guy did a nice job.

 

[SuperDave]

Is this your video? Personally I would avoid (& strongly disuade) using header thermal wraps. They trap moisture and lead to rust. Everyone I know who has had them has ended up replacing the headers within a year because they cause rust. Thermal ceramic coating is the only way to go, other than bolt on heat shields. Any self respecting exhaust shop will tell you to NOT use them, unless they're counting on your return business to replace them.

I want the long tube TTI headers with the ceramic heat treatment, but they cost over a grand. They are pricy, but they are also the only ones who make headers to fit my Chrysler, and they know it. With no competition, they can charge what they want. The only other alternative is DIY and by the time your done, it's nearly as expensive to just buy TTI's bolt-on set. I can't weld to save my life, so I'm saving up.

 

[77newyorker440]

I don't believe TTI makes any sets for post 1973 cars so it wouldn't work for my 77. I do like their products though

 

[Boydsdodge]

Not my Vid, just passing along info to the OP.
I would never wrap raw steel headers. I would not install headers on a C