Power seat motors and solenoids

[Camshaft]

Still having some issues with my drivers side power seat and wondering if someone can help me out here. I have my manual, but I don't have a parts # book for 1967 Chrysler 300 convertible, but wondering what years power seat systems on other vehicles will fit my 300? I have the 6 way buckets and it looks to me after rooting around that the solenoid packs must have been used for a few years in various models. Is there an easy way to determine this? And when a solenoid goes bad, can they be repaired in some way?
Any advice would be appreciated!

CamShaft

 

[detmatt]

For starters, what is making you think you have a bad solenoid? If the seat doesn’t move in all directions but you can hear a clicking sound for each function then I would say that the assembly needs to be taken apart and thoroughly cleaned and re-greased.

 

[Camshaft]

Hey Matt, nice to hear from you. The seat has come out and all cleaned and greased, but one of the 3 sets of movements does not work.(Horizontal Riser). Motor is good, all others are smooth (ish). CamShaft

 

[CBODY67]

My gut suspicion tells me that the basic motor and solenoid items are probably used by many OEMs and model years, being supplied by a division of General Motors.

What makes them unique is the drive cables that go to the "jacks" at each seat position on the basic mountings. Cable lengths and such. Possibly even the jacks are GM items, too? The jacks themselves might have variations in designs to accommodate various seat riser mountings, too.

Just my suspicions . . .
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

I don't have a parts # book for 1967 Chrysler

Grab a digital version here: Parts Manuals – MyMopar

 

[Camshaft]

Thanks gents. Big John, the reason I don't use My Mopar is they want me to change my browser to open them to a Yahoo default, not doing that. In my research of various years set up, it seems that only 67-68 models that I have seen have the solenoid packs and drive clutch in the same configuration with the 3 solenoids stacked two wide with the 3rd on top of those two. (Like a pyramid shape) The motor is set an angle. In other models the 3 solenoids are 3 side by side in a horizontal arrangement. Those observations are from the limited photos that I have been able to find. I guess I will just take it apart, make sure all the wires, connections to relay and solenoid packs etc are good, and go from there. I have never taken one of these apart, and admit this type of stuff is not my strong suit! I have the seat in the right position as of now, but it is little low for me, which is why I sit on a gel cushion! Cam Shaft

 

[CBODY67]

Don't have to "change" your browser, just add the one they desire as a separate item. For example, I've had the current MS Edge, plus Firefox, on the same machine. I still use the Edge for everything, but if I wanted to use Firefox, I would click on that and it happens. No big deal, to me. MyMopar.com works with Edge, too.

Rather than "change", might it be "update"?

Just my experiences,
CBODY67

 

[detmatt]

Thanks gents. Big John, the reason I don't use My Mopar is they want me to change my browser to open them to a Yahoo default, not doing that. In my research of various years set up, it seems that only 67-68 models that I have seen have the solenoid packs and drive clutch in the same configuration with the 3 solenoids stacked two wide with the 3rd on top of those two. (Like a pyramid shape) The motor is set an angle. In other models the 3 solenoids are 3 side by side in a horizontal arrangement. Those observations are from the limited photos that I have been able to find. I guess I will just take it apart, make sure all the wires, connections to relay and solenoid packs etc are good, and go from there. I have never taken one of these apart, and admit this type of stuff is not my strong suit! I have the seat in the right position as of now, but it is little low for me, which is why I sit on a gel cushion! Cam Shaft

Hey pal, likewise!
I know ‘66 Chrysler used the same base, not sure about ‘65 though.

 

[Camshaft]

So I have the one on the left side with the solenoids stacked. The one on the right is the side by side triple. As far as I can tell the one on the left was used in 1967 and 1968, not sure about 1966. The one on the right comes afterwards. The 1967 New Yorkers and Imperials had some additional parts, like an actuator switch, but basically the same motor, transmission and solenoids.

 

[detmatt]

So I have the one on the left side with the solenoids stacked. The one on the right is the side by side triple. As far as I can tell the one on the left was used in 1967 and 1968, not sure about 1966. The one on the right comes afterwards. The 1967 New Yorkers and Imperials had some additional parts, like an actuator switch, but basically the same motor, transmission and solenoids.
View attachment 693078View attachment 693079

Read my last post. I am sure about ‘66.

 

[Camshaft]

Sorry Matt, thought your post said 65 ! Eyesight is failing! C Shaft.

 

[chippers65300]

65 with 6 way through 68, if memory serves me correctly. The 60 year old grease turns into a waxy glue, especially in the 4 jacks. They must be completely disassembled, keep a close watch for the tiny clutch packs on the cable ends. I had one hell of a time getting a couple of the jacks apart. I was absolutely amazed that the old grease degraded into a sticky glue. I disassembled, the transmission and did the same, small shift levers and gears that are actuated by the solenoids, they come off as a pack, but can be individually detached from the pack. Holding the switch on with bound up jacks or vertical sliders will burn out a solenoid. Never hold the switch in activation mode if something is stuck in the glue. This is all a very time consuming and tedious task but well worth it. Thanks to detmatt having some power seat track assemblies, I got it done. I'm going to go through one the 6way seat track assemblies I purchased from detmatt for my 65 300L, as it has the factory 4 way power seat, a whole different setup,the 6way is much better. A factory service manual with help you tremendously.

 

[chippers65300]

From '67 Plymouth service manual.

 

[chippers65300]

 

[Camshaft]

Chipper I have the factory service manual, and I can see how the whole thing works, but what is it inside the solenoid that causes it to go bad? Do the windings get burnt when the switch is held down too long trying to move the seat when it is held back by something? They are a sealed unit, so how can see what goes bad? I admit, I hate electrical stuff ! CamShaft

 

[chippers65300]

The windings will get burnt and swell up preventing the rod from moving back and forth. If you've taken the transmission apart to clean it you will spot a bad one right away. The shaft on one of the three gears will be hard to get out, where as the good ones will slide back and forth easily. I can't remember if the little actuator rods are connected to the gear or the shift lever right now. The 3 pack of solenoids are fairly easy to remove as a pack and I have removed them single also. I noticed the solenoid problem when I disassembled the small transmission to clean and grease. I believe those rods are part of the shift levers, if they don't slide in and out of the solenoid easily, the solenoid is toast.

 

[chippers65300]

Shift fork, the small gear slides into a slot on the shift fork. The solenoid moves the shift fork in and out of the solenoid when activated which in turn moves the gear on the other end of the shift fork. If they don't in and out easily, the solenoid is toast. The engineers in those days were mechanical wizards. It overwhelmed me at first, but after getting into it I figured it out and sure realized why they referred to it as a transmission, that's exactly what it is...controlled by the solenoids. Holding the switch on when something is stuck will sure burn up a solenoid. I would think it would blow the circuit breaker but it didn't on mine. Swelled up the coil to the point the shift fork couldn't move.

 

[chippers65300]

One last thing, those shift forks that slide in and out of the solenoid should be dry and clean. Never grease the part of the fork that slides in and out of the solenoid.

 

[chippers65300]

Here's some pics of the solenoid pack, easy to remove, two screws, you can see the holes in one pic. The one removed is bad, notice the waxy paper that should surround the outside of the coil is missing except one small piece. Their just a simple coil winding. The spol the winding is wound on is made of nylon. When mine got hot it expanded and expanded that nylon center.