Every old car is loaded with incorrect "Aeroquip" worm clamps, because that's what everyone did when replacing something over the past 45 years...fuel pumps and filters, coolant hoses, power steering returns....everything. That's because they were easier to use than Corbins (that shot around the garage like bullets if you didn't have a proper Corbin plier), worked better, and looked "cool and modern". And didn't seep. But now, we're buying repop clamps and making everything look OEM. At least I am........I've been researching every friggin' clamp, strap and fastener under the hood of 69/70 300s.
See this olive green clamp on my new breather? WRONG! Supposed to be black.
I found black clamps a few weeks ago. Here's the correct black clamp:
![IMG_3788[1].JPG](https://forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/img_3788-1-jpg.246439/ "IMG_3788[1].JPG")
As for seeping, here's a tip for using Corbins, spring clamps and crimp-style fuel clamps: Once installed, twist and pull on the hose to "seat" the inside of the hose (at the clamp's location) up against the raised "flare" portion of the nipple. To make this work for you, don't place the clamp at the very end of the hose, far from the nipple flare. You'll want to place it just immediately past the flare so only a very tiny pull on the hose will seat that clamp nicely. This tip applies mostly to coolant and power steering return hoses, as the crimp-type fuel clamps (if anyone bothers to use them for totally correct restoration) really put the squeeze on the fuel hose if done properly. Properly! However, I use worms for fuel, and cheat by painting them matte black with a small brush once installed. I don't much like gasoline fires.
Finally, this tip doesn't seem to be needed for the large upper/lower rad hoses. I speculate that this is because the large diameter provides a nice, even tension on the hose/nipple surface. But if your rad hoses are weeping, you might try cleaning the components and re-positioning the Corbins close to the flare area....and give 'em a little tug.
![IMG_3787[1].JPG](https://forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/img_3787-1-jpg.246428/ "IMG_3787[1].JPG")
See this olive green clamp on my new breather? WRONG! Supposed to be black.
I found black clamps a few weeks ago. Here's the correct black clamp:As for seeping, here's a tip for using Corbins, spring clamps and crimp-style fuel clamps: Once installed, twist and pull on the hose to "seat" the inside of the hose (at the clamp's location) up against the raised "flare" portion of the nipple. To make this work for you, don't place the clamp at the very end of the hose, far from the nipple flare. You'll want to place it just immediately past the flare so only a very tiny pull on the hose will seat that clamp nicely. This tip applies mostly to coolant and power steering return hoses, as the crimp-type fuel clamps (if anyone bothers to use them for totally correct restoration) really put the squeeze on the fuel hose if done properly. Properly! However, I use worms for fuel, and cheat by painting them matte black with a small brush once installed. I don't much like gasoline fires.
Finally, this tip doesn't seem to be needed for the large upper/lower rad hoses. I speculate that this is because the large diameter provides a nice, even tension on the hose/nipple surface. But if your rad hoses are weeping, you might try cleaning the components and re-positioning the Corbins close to the flare area....and give 'em a little tug.
Last edited:
