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I have plenty of good regulators available if you end up needing one.
Power window 1968 Chrysler ** UPDATE**
- Thread starter GOLDMYN
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GOLDMYN
Senior Member
will do.
GOLDMYN
Senior Member
I inspected everything, clean and lubed, reinstalled, motor ran , this time louder as if the motor gear was hitting the regulator, I' ll take it back out and re-examine. the motor is dated 1977
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You’ve got to visually inspect the regulator, it is probably missing some teeth.
GOLDMYN
Senior Member
*** MORE UPDATE*** OK, My mistake, with the motor going around, I thought it was good. nope, I took the motor apart and found what looks like foam and no pucks, I'm hoping the repair kit i bought will work, all the parts look correct.
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Is the blurry pic of the box the repair kit? Let’s see what’s inside if it is and in focus please…
As mentioned earlier, the motor spins but nothing else is in there! Where is the gear? Did you take it out or is all the black shrapnel the old gear and pucks? As mentioned in my comment earlier, it looks like someone replaced that motor or the internals at some time in the past. Please note that there are subtle differences in these motors, which is why I suggested that you put the part number on the back of the drive head out there so we know what it is. See the photo below of two separate motors. Note that the external gear is slightly smaller on one of them although they both have 9 teeth. Also, the motor pictured on the top has the small gear recessed slightly in the cover plate and a rubber gasket. If you bolted up each of these to the same regulator they would engage the teeth on the regulator differently. Also, some of the motors that use internal pucks, like the one you have, are ever so slightly different on the size of the pucks used. I have tried to cross reference them to to find an easier way to identify which needs which, but no luck! I have bought a supply of both puck sizes.
CamShaft
![IMG_0181[1].JPG](https://forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachments/img_0181-1-jpg.570937/ "IMG_0181[1].JPG")
CamShaft
GOLDMYN
Senior Member
Its a Dorman kit and has ALL the components, plastic pucks, plastic gear, metal gear, small 0 ring and the black cap w/4 holes, and small screw all parts same as my motor., i'll try to post pix, stupid camera, best i can do
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GOLDMYN
Senior Member
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Dorman
Manufacturer Part Number:
747-411
Manufacturer Part Number:
747-411
GOLDMYN
Senior Member
the pucks that were in the kit worked, I did have to sand one a tad so they would all fit. The small screw provided was too small, I put in a small screw and sanded the head, we'll see if the clearance was enough, if not sand a little down
GOLDMYN
Senior Member
**UPDATE** assembled and cross my fingers, window works great, I now have all 4 windows working although the right rear is slow. I'm going to leave that as is.
68NewportSportVert
Member
Power window motors operate by reversing polarity, not a common ground. Inside each window switch are basically two SPDT switches that provide power or ground to the legs of the motor. When the window switch is in the 'neutral' position ground is applied to both legs. When the window switch is moved to the 'up' position, the SPDT switch for the 'up' leg of the motor switched from ground to power, completing the circuit and moving the window. When the window switch is released and returns to the neutral position, the 'up' SPDT is switched from power to ground.
The motor will not move unless power is applied to one leg and ground is applied to the other.
Interesting. That's not been my experience when testing these motors...
68NewportSportVert
Member
Per the FSM
All the white dots in the switches are connected to ground. All the black dots are connected to power.
All the white dots in the switches are connected to ground. All the black dots are connected to power.
Correct - polarity is reversed, but as I understand it, only by changing the flow pathway of 12V DC. If they were to connect 12V to the motors as you describe (with reversing the power feed AND ground function within the two wires feeding the motor), then wiring diagram would have therefore have a line showing a hard connection to each motor from what's labelled as ground.
But it doesn't (as I interpret it). The diagram shows ground as chassis ground, and the diagram shows that the switches simply feed 12V to either the Up or Down side of the motor - yes, in a strict sense reversing the motor's polarity, but in truth, running the motor either backwards or forwards by running 12V through it in one or the other direction, and still grounding the motor to the chassis (common ground). I still maintain that ground (as depicted here) is common to the chassis and therefore the motor case.
Perhaps I've got it wrong?
But it doesn't (as I interpret it). The diagram shows ground as chassis ground, and the diagram shows that the switches simply feed 12V to either the Up or Down side of the motor - yes, in a strict sense reversing the motor's polarity, but in truth, running the motor either backwards or forwards by running 12V through it in one or the other direction, and still grounding the motor to the chassis (common ground). I still maintain that ground (as depicted here) is common to the chassis and therefore the motor case.
Perhaps I've got it wrong?
68NewportSportVert
Member
The section marked 'right rear' is the only one that clearly shows a connection to ground at both white dots, but all of them are the same. When the switch is not operated, the switches inside are both connected to ground.
You have too ask why would they include the ground at the switches if the ground for the motor is the body? It would a far simpler diagram if it was only providing power to one leg or the other and the motor itself was the ground.
It's kinda like later alternators with an isolated field, rather than the older ones where one end of the field is grounded.
sixtyf
Active Member
I was helping a mate today with his drivers door electric window (68 Chrysler 300) and both up and down cables are grounded when the toggle is in the nuetral position. There was no ground on the motor chassis itself. It took a while to figure out but the diagram above is spot on for his vehicle. A good thread, thanks for the information.
GOLDMYN
Senior Member
I had sent the 4 switch master to Devin for rebuild, so while I had everything apart, put some new door handles, old ones pitted
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