Power Window motor clutch assembly slipping inside the drivegear

[baging]

Ok.....pulled my rr window motor apart today, as it been slipping.
Seen the great threads about repairing broken pucks, but as it turned out, that didn't apply to my problem...
In my case, it's the gear itself that slips internally....

/Stefan

Guess it's basically nothing to do but try to get a new, but i was thinking of drilling a hole straight thru, and locking the inner and outer part together with some kind of rod...

How do you feel about this? Guess it's meant to be able to slip some as a safeguard for the motor, but as long as i use it with caution it should be ok?? :/

 

[Big_John]

Why not just buy a new one? NEW 77-4628 POWER WINDOW GEAR Mopar Dodge Chrysler Plymouth | eBay

Not sure if that's your application, but you get the idea.

 

[Big_John]

Better price

UA GEAR (9 TOOTH) POWER WINDOW REGULATOR CHRYSLER 75 77-4628 | eBay

 

[baging]

Why not just buy a new one? NEW 77-4628 POWER WINDOW GEAR Mopar Dodge Chrysler Plymouth | eBay

Not sure if that's your application, but you get the idea.

Absolutely....will look for a new one that's the same as mine, but i was thinking in the mean time ;)

 

[jct]

That's a hell of a deal for 15 dollars

 

[baging]

Well....since the drive gear was hardened, the drilling didn't work very well
So i took some 12gauge wire, cut a few wires to lenght and spread around the driven part and pressed the gear back. This seems to work good for now, as it's not slipping anymore
It actually slipped so bad that the window slided down by it's own weight....

 

[75LandYacht]

Evening fellas, I don’t want to start another thread regarding removing my window motor and regulator for my 77 NYB, Maybe you fellas can point me in the right direction. I’ve read a few other threads on how to rebuild the pucks inside the motor, but I’m looking for “direction / How too” on how to actually remove everything from the door. The motor works I can hear it humming but the window doesn’t move. The window is currently in the UP position. In my picture below I’ve colored and blue all of the bolts or rivets on the door. It appears that the motor has been replaced once before since there are bolts where rivets used to be. But I don’t want to go un-bolting or drilling out rivets without knowing exactly what I need to do. Does the window stay in the door? Or do I remove it with the regulator and motor? I’ve also read about the very dangerous spring on the regulator, other threads have recommended drilling a hole through the regulator and the gear to keep the spring loaded during removal. Any direction would be appreciated.

 

[Mr C]

Evening fellas, I don’t want to start another thread regarding removing my window motor and regulator for my 77 NYB, Maybe you fellas can point me in the right direction. I’ve read a few other threads on how to rebuild the pucks inside the motor, but I’m looking for “direction / How too” on how to actually remove everything from the door. The motor works I can hear it humming but the window doesn’t move. The window is currently in the UP position. In my picture below I’ve colored and blue all of the bolts or rivets on the door. It appears that the motor has been replaced once before since there are bolts where rivets used to be. But I don’t want to go un-bolting or drilling out rivets without knowing exactly what I need to do. Does the window stay in the door? Or do I remove it with the regulator and motor? I’ve also read about the very dangerous spring on the regulator, other threads have recommended drilling a hole through the regulator and the gear to keep the spring loaded during removal. Any direction would be appreciated.
View attachment 312061

Window glass stays in the door. Once the fasteners that hold the regulator are loose, you then slide it out of the tracks and fish it out of the hole at the bottom of the door. It helps to have an assistant hold the glass for you.

 

[Big_John]

I’ve also read about the very dangerous spring on the regulator, other threads have recommended drilling a hole through the regulator and the gear to keep the spring loaded during removal.

Yes, you need to do this or something similar. Not only is the spring kinda dangerous, you'll have a real hard time getting it back together.

 

[detmatt]

I’ll use a quick grip clamp that has the rubber pads on it applied to the bottom of the glass just above the top of the door to keep the glass from sliding down when you remove the motor and regulator. I use a locking plier to clamp the gear part of the regulator to regulator body before taking the motor off to keep the regulator from unwinding when you remove the motor.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

I find myself with basically the exact same problem. The manual calls to remove the glass from the lift channel first but I don’t see that step here.

Can I leave the channel on the glass and just slide the regulator wheel off the end? That would be huge since the bolts holding the glass to the channel are pretty frozen.

Also, I’m guessing I only need worry about the spring when the regulator is out and I’m about to pull off the motor...pls advise sage readers of this board...

 

[78Brougham]

If you remove the regulator with the motor attached I don't think you'll have a problem. It should come out as a unit. The motor will prevent the spring from unwinding. If it does unwind, it will only go so far. Just far enough to smash your fingers. So be careful regardless. The real fun begins when it's on the work bench or in the vise.

 

[detmatt]

I just had one do this on me. These 2 pieces are actually splined together and the splines had stripped out. I do have some extras.

 

[baging]

If you have extras, i would be interested in buying one of them

 

[detmatt]

If you have extras, i would be interested in buying one of them

Pm sent.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

For the record, I pulled out the whole regulator, guide wheel slipped off the window channel and the window floated free in there. Not hard to do.

Regulator arm had lots of play so easy to twist out. Was a little tougher going back in. Had to plug in in to manipulate the arm.

Did the drill-through routine to lock down the arm. Easy peasy.

Had to do a fair amount of scrubbing to get the old grease out of the gear box. Ordered a rebuild kit from Summit Racing of all places. Packed it back together. Install went pretty good. The one replacement bolt was near impossible so I re-riveted it.

Cleaned up the power door locks, reassembled the door.

All good.

Thanks for all the help. Didn’t go the full route from Mr.C. I use the car and window so rarely that I think the replacement parts will hang in there for a very long time.