Power Window Motor Repair

Excellent tutorial Big John. Will bookmark this as I intend to do the same on all four of my 65 300's windows. I prefer using original parts or nos parts. They will work for another 50 years!! The cheap China crap won't last if it even fits.
Both rear motors are out of order now. They barely work, just and 1/8 of an inch or so. Thanks John!!!!
 
The cars after about 1974(?) or so seem to have the pucks in the drive. Earlier cars have the spring drive. When they made the change, I don't know.

I think the springs lessen the shock of hitting the up and down stops.

Dorman was making the drive gears, but I can't find them on their site anymore. You might be able to find some on eBay with a little patience.

Here's a link to repairing the drives. You could use nuts or find the "pucks" on eBay. Either way works. How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

You have to install the motor and shaft before putting the drive gear in.
My 1968 has pucks in the drive. I think the springs may be far better ...
 
I discussed removing the rear window motor in my '70 300 vert here: Removing Motor

The original idea was to just replace with a newer model I had sitting on the shelf, but that didn't work, so let's just fix the old one instead.

The problem was real obvious when I took the old motor apart. The commutator was covered in grease and crap and one of the brushes was stuck and not making good contact.

View attachment 526487

I've freed up the brush, but you can see the crud.

View attachment 526488

Because it's a worm drive, you can count on a thrust washer of some kind on both ends of the shaft. See the little round piece with the hole in it? That goes down in the end bushing.

View attachment 526489

This washer (thicker) goes on the other end. Note the nasty black grease. This was after I started scrapping it out.

View attachment 526490
I did all that with my vent window motor but no luck. Motor refuses to spin, just hums a little.
 
Sounds like it's stuck. Take a look at the Vent Motor Repair thread instead of this thread for more info.
I read all of that. The gears and all are great and turn by hand. Without the gears attached the motor still just hums. I pulled the armature, cleaned and lubed everything in the motor and it still just buzzes.
 
The cars after about 1974(?) or so seem to have the pucks in the drive. Earlier cars have the spring drive. When they made the change, I don't know.

I think the springs lessen the shock of hitting the up and down stops.

Dorman was making the drive gears, but I can't find them on their site anymore. You might be able to find some on eBay with a little patience.

Here's a link to repairing the drives. You could use nuts or find the "pucks" on eBay. Either way works. How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

You have to install the motor and shaft before putting the drive gear in.

I encountered the "pucks" on my '73 NY. Now working on a '71 2-door HT, springs. I like the springs better, for both function and longevity.

Reading this thread, I'm tempted to open the motors while I have them out to inspect the brushes. Everything works and looks good, but you never know.

Main reason I'm looking into window regulator threads is that I pulled the quarter windows out and discovered that the regulators have no springs on them. Was that intentional for electric regulators?


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I encountered the "pucks" on my '73 NY. Now working on a '71 2-door HT, springs. I like the springs better, for both function and longevity.

Reading this thread, I'm tempted to open the motors while I have them out to inspect the brushes. Everything works and looks good, but you never know.

Main reason I'm looking into window regulator threads is that I pulled the quarter windows out and discovered that the regulators have no springs on them. Was that intentional for electric regulators?


View attachment 659402


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View attachment 659404
That's what all mine in 69 looks like.
 
Those are assist springs and they should be there. They basically “lighten” the window so the window motor doesn’t have to work hard to lift dead weight.
 
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Those are assist springs and they should be there. They basically “lighten” the window so the window motor doesn’t have to work hard to lift dead weight.

The quarter windows seemed a little slow going up, I thought it was due to dirt and old grease, but upon disassembly, the regulator and tracks were in excellent original condition w/ nice OEM grease.

Now I have to find springs......
 
The quarter windows seemed a little slow going up, I thought it was due to dirt and old grease, but upon disassembly, the regulator and tracks were in excellent original condition w/ nice OEM grease.

Now I have to find springs......
I have springs available. Message me.
 
The cars after about 1974(?) or so seem to have the pucks in the drive. Earlier cars have the spring drive. When they made the change, I don't know.

I think the springs lessen the shock of hitting the up and down stops.

Dorman was making the drive gears, but I can't find them on their site anymore. You might be able to find some on eBay with a little patience.

Here's a link to repairing the drives. You could use nuts or find the "pucks" on eBay. Either way works. How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

You have to install the motor and shaft before putting the drive gear in.

I have six motors sitting on my bench for the 67 Parklane not including the four in the car. All of them use three small round gear plugs.
 
This is a long thread but with a great amount of information. I have been screwing around with PW window motors for a while, deeply indebted to Big John for his tutorials as usual, but I find it unusual that the earlier windows had the springs in the gear drive, and then were switched to the 3 plastic pucks in around 1970 or so? I would have thought the other way around. Seems like the 4 springs below the gear were better. I wonder why Ma Mopar switched? Can't be cost, they are both pennies. Also, why is there an adjustment on the end of the worm drive? You could not adjust it when it was in the car, so why is it there? I made the mistake of tightening one down and testing the motor, and the motor would not budge. So I loosened the end play while the motor was running on the bench until it was free and easy, but what would be the reasoning for tightening it up. Worn out stuff?
Cam Shaft
 
This is a long thread but with a great amount of information. I have been screwing around with PW window motors for a while, deeply indebted to Big John for his tutorials as usual, but I find it unusual that the earlier windows had the springs in the gear drive, and then were switched to the 3 plastic pucks in around 1970 or so? I would have thought the other way around. Seems like the 4 springs below the gear were better. I wonder why Ma Mopar switched? Can't be cost, they are both pennies. Also, why is there an adjustment on the end of the worm drive? You could not adjust it when it was in the car, so why is it there? I made the mistake of tightening one down and testing the motor, and the motor would not budge. So I loosened the end play while the motor was running on the bench until it was free and easy, but what would be the reasoning for tightening it up. Worn out stuff?
Cam Shaft
I think they changed to the pucks around 1974. I don't know exactly why, but Fords were using the same drive about that time frame. In fact, the pucks are available, just have to type "Ford" in the search on eBay. Exact same.... Possibly the same vendor making them.

The worm gear adjustment is there because by their nature, the pinion for will want to push or pull as it turns the driven gear. The reason they use a worm gear is because the pinion can't be turned by the driven gear. So a window goes up and the weight doesn't push it back because the worm gear won't let it. That's a really crappy explanation so here's something better. Worm Gears Explained

Worm drive - Wikipedia
 
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